Gas Tank Clean & Re-Coating cost

[drewski31]

Hello - What should it cost for a reputable shop to take the tank out of a '74 - clean and have it sent out for re-coating and clean out all the gas lines? Thanks

[Flat6pac]

Why do you want someone else to do it, there is no learning curve there.
Its only held in by 3 retainers, the gas filler connection, 2 fuel lines on the bottom and the connection to the fuel lever indicator, 5 small nuts to remove the indicator.
Take it to a radiator shop and tell them to clean it and seal the inside
Bruce

[suprxman]

My local shop ( radiator ) cleaned my tank for $200 2 years ago.
While it was out I circulated mineral spirits daily for about a month. I did a couple of gallons a day, thru the lines using the fuel pump and filtered each days use with a lot of cheesecloth. I am now replacing ALL the lines in the car with new lines because I found dirt in my tank and lines. Not a lot, but enough to convince me to just replace everything. I changed my filter 3 times in 2 years.
I think that ethanol ate some of the rubber in the original lines even though I used Sta Bil and Swepco additives.
Check this forum for the process to replace the lines. It sounds very difficult but it's not actually. I wasted a lot of time looking at everything but actual working time to remove them was maybe an hour. Just do it.
I absolutely want fuel lines that are ethanol and methanol proof. Found Gates
Barricade fuel injection hose in 3/8 i.d. at NAPA for $4 a foot. I'll make my own AN lines using standard fittings.
Good for up to 225 p.s.i.
Pelican also sells the original lines and Boxster GT can make very high quality lines for whatever you want. Just my opinion.

[Sunroof]

I had my tank (1973T) boiled and coated at a radiator shop. They used "Redkote" which is a Navy grade tank coating and very strong. You should prep the tank once pulled by removing as much exterior coating as possible. It took some scarping and solvent to get it all off. The caustic bath at the shop cannot get it all off for you. If your tank has that huge filter (look for the huge hex nut on the bottom of the tank) is should be removed and replaced. It must be off before going to the shop as well as any fitting on the rear of the tank where additional filters might be attached. I am not of course referring to the welded lines!

The tank after a caustic boil will come back looking like it survived a war zone being slightly scaled from the caustic etching. No problem. This is where a coat of POR 15 on the outside is perfect. After one coat use Wurth Rubberized coating to finish the outside like it was factory fresh. A couple of coats will do fine.

My tank was done about three years ago at a cost of $150.00 at the shop. Figure another $100 for the pain, coating and filter. You'll be glad you took your time and finished the exterior correctly. Of course you can always purchase an aftermarket tank at a pretty decent price now if you do not want to mess with much of the prep cleaning and boiling.

Good luck

Bob
73.5T

[s_morrison57]

I took mine to a shop that only does tanks, they didn't boil mine, they baked it then cut holes in the tank so they could sand blast (another medium was probably used) the inside around the baffles, Cleaned, re-welded then rubber coated on the inside = $225.00 CDN 10 years ago.
IMO take your tank to a shop that does that, I don't think a rad shop could have done the same job that the tank shop did. Mine had old gas that had reverted to a molassas type of oil/sludge.

[suprxman]

I wasn't specific but my radiator shop also cut holes in my tank and blasted the interior and then welded and resealed the interior.
They have been in business for over 50 years or more so they know everything from that many years of experience.
I still recommend changing all fuel lines. There is rubber front and rear.