How far can I go without this?
 

Just the one broken headstud from a 1982 sc

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0d4aea42.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...ps75c37ab4.jpg

Just the one? Did you check all of the others? If the rest of them are maintaining the proper torque, you can go a long time.

1 KM or 100,000 KM's. It's a crapshoot. The longer you wait, the more possibility of damage to your head and cylinder where it is broken.

Yep - and I was knda hpoing to put it off for a couple of years or so...

Not sure when the VCs were last removed - could have done 50K miles without it already for all I know..

I drove on mine for a year. The PO did't know about it so who knows how long it went. When I finally tore it down to replace the dilavar studs, there was no damage to the head yet.

How many miles?

You never adjust your valves?

JR

This guy drove around with one broken stud -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/7125476-post1.html

The long and short of it is I don't know. I discovered the broken stud when adjusting the valves right after I bought it. It looked more corroded than yours. I think it was broken for a while. I drove 2000 ish miles more before tearing it down. I may be an outlier but mine turned out ok. Keep a close eye on it though.

Just out of curiosity, which motor did this come out of?

Just bought the car...there is a service history but not sure when the valves were done last. Nuts and rocker covers were pretty messy so I think its been a while.

Its from a 3.0 l 1982 SC - lower - its on the right side - the stud nearest the front of the car.

I was expecting the black coated studs.

Unless the car is a total basket case and something you consider disposable, I would go ahead and get all the studs replaced.

Yes, it is a nice chunk of coin, but I would also search the Engine Rebuild forum as well as this forum and get a feel for the added cost of what head and cylinder damage could cost.

If it broke in the middle of the case somewhat, cyl 2 and 5, could last a while as the cam tower kinda keep everything together, if on the out side of cyl 1,3,4 or six, it could start making a poping sound on acceleration as soon as the little alum. seal breaks between the head and jug, time to fix once you hear the popping, as damage is now being done.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1361107264.jpg
damage from a boken head stud. The head and jug sealing suface get beat to crap. Just more machine work and more $$

Just a Question,I'm new to P-cars. Why can't he just replace the broken head bolt,seems he got the bolt out. Until he can either afford to or have it fixed when rebuilding engine. If it runs fine and to prevent any further damage replace the bolt and re torque the head? Maybe a compression test and leak down test could help decide that?

The other half of the stud is still in the case. They do not use head bolts. To replace one stud, the engine has to come out and be torn down anyway, so you might as well just replace all the studs like others have already said.

OH!!! I see,I thought the hex part was the bolt head,didn't see the threads inside? It's actually a nut. Thanks

No problem! 911's are very different than many "normal" cars.

See post #52 of this thread for a really ingenious tool. Might be worth a shot. My 82 SC engine is an early one of that production run, like 64C00097, and if Hans or Frans were as liberal with the loctite on your studs as they were with mine, it's going to be a tough go.

I will say this: You are at a cross-roads and the next thing you need to determine is whether or not you have the Mahle Nikasil pistons/cylinders or the KS Alusil pistons/cylinders. Do some homework before you decide to tear things down and pitch the piston rings in a pile on your work bench.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/662497-broken-head-removal-without-engine-disassembly-insanity-3.html