There is just that one remaining nut...
 

The last barrel nut holding the HE to the cylinder heads has a rounded off head so the tool just turn without grabbing anything... It is right under the HE and barely visible...:mad: There is no way I can even use a Dremel, or a hammer and chisel under there.
Would using JB Weld to try and "glue" together the barrel nut and the 8mm Allen wrench be strong enough to withstand the torque required to set the nut free? 4 of the other 5 came out without too much of a fight, the other was also rounded off and It took a good fight to get it off.
Any suggestions welcome...;)

I would snap it off carefully (if that's possible) and then go on to drill it out. Key is to preserve the threads in the head.

G

How would you go about snapping it off?
I think the only access is through the opening in the HE where the Allen wrench would go, but I am concerned about preserving the HE.
Drilling it out might work but will be tricky... You got me thinking. Thanks!

Before breaking it off...
Will a standard or smaller metric 12 point socket or wrench almost go on?
If it will, try to find a way to lever/wedge/tap it onto the nut. Then undo it.
Post a picture of the offending nut and it's location. I'm sure someone else has removed it without having to break it off.

Edit: Barrel nut.... Damn.... Can you get an easy out to grab it?


Where's John Walker when you need him! :)

I can also try that... I have to make sure I have a thin enough extension to make it through the "tunnel" in the HE.

Have you tried one size bigger hex key and hammer it in there to get a grab?

I did try that but the next size up is really big and the barrel nut is too tough to force anything that big into it. I tried both standard and metric. Also even on a "good" barrel nut the wrench only goes in a couple of mm so unless it is the right fit there won't be much grab...

Try hammering a 12 point torx or other multi point hex type bit in there?
Do you think you could get a wire from a wire feed welder in there?
Stick an old hex bit in there and tack it on.

I used some long hex keys that had a socket on the end that I got from Harbor Freight when I pulled mine. They have a 9 mm hex in that set, might be worth looking into before you consider snapping off an exhaust stud, yikes!!

Silly question, are you keeping your HEs? If not, then you might be able to cut those up to get to the nut and get it off. Of course if you're going to keep them then this won't work.

Keeping the HEs as my car is a cab and we'll be driving it up PCH and on evening rides with the top down...;)

All you need is a long enough left handed drill bit. Now, good luck finding one. Quick search and I found long and left handed but not both in combo.

Or left handed drill bit and an extension. Not sure the extension would clear the hole in the heat exchangers.

If you had a flex extension for your dremel could you squeeze that in between the engine and Hx? I know it tight under there. Just can't get a good mental picture to remember if there is enough room. Driving six hours in the rain at night tends to turn my brain to mush...

-J

I can try and hunt down a long left hand drill bit. There is no room for a dremel flex. I'll try and take some pictures to illustrate the situation.

Has the exhaust been off recently? If not, I doubt that JB weld would hold. I just took my exhaust down and a couple of those nuts were pretty tough to get moving.

Not been off in years by the look of the fasteners...

+1 on the pic!

When I removed my HE the knuckle head that was in there before somehow backed out the stud enough to run the stud up through barrel nut then again, somehow, tightened the whole mess down! Trying to get a hex head in there was futile, so I used various chisels to chip away at it enough to break it free and rotate... man what a PIA that was!
If my engine hadn't been on a stand I dont think I could have done it...

Gilles, Your engine on a stand or still in the car?

btw I have a full set of timecerts and the install kit.... just sayin... hope you don't need them but if you do I got your back bro! Just up the 101 from you

No way JB-weld would hold... as you know those suckers need a ton of force to get them to move...

On second thought +1 on the 12 point Euro star tool. I have used that with great success on the 993's allen head screws holding some of the engine tin / accessories, when they were rounding out.

Edit: You need something that is close but just oversize. Then hammer it in.

http://www.metalnerd.com/images/prod...t05/mn0812.jpg

GL!!!

Search for Bolt-Outs. I like option number one, if you can feed the bolt out between the engine and Hx you can run a 3/8 extension up through the Hx and apply plenty of pressure. -J

Amazon.com: Irwin Industrial Tools 394002 Bolt-Grip Expansion Set, 5-Piece: Home Improvement

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

Amazon.com: Irwin Industrial Tools 394001 Bolt-Grip Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5-Piece: Home Improvement

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

Amazon.com: Irwin Industrial Tool 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Extractor Set, 25-Piece: Home Improvement

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

The engine is on a stand so I can rotate it as needed
I was able to chisel out all the other nuts but this one is really hiding...
And I know where you live... if I need help!;)