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Always Be Fixing Cars
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: SE CT
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Tools & supplies required for G50 trans fluid change?
I have 4 qts of gear oil per owner's manual specifications, an oil pump and a 24mm socket to release the drain plug. I can't find a description of the fill plug but from the parts manual it looks like its a big female hex (which sounds dangerous). Also wondering if the sealing rings around the grain and fill plug must be replaced or if I can get away with the old ones.
Thanks
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'91 964 C4 - New Daily '73 Alfa GTV - 90% done 50% to go '65 912 - Welding in process |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,186
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First off make sure you can take the fill plug out before you do the drain plug!
IIRC the plug is 10mm hex, dont think factory put a washer on the fill plug but it is a good idea to do so, they are cheap. I have heard of some guys smoothing them down with a file and reusing them..I dont do that.. |
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Recreational User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: A Mile High
Posts: 4,159
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I just did that job on my '88 last weekend. Both the drain plug and fill plug are 10mm female hex, so you need an allen wrench or allen socket (unless your plugs are different for some reason).
Always use new ring washers on every plug (both engine oil and gear oil). |
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Always Be Fixing Cars
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Quote:
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'91 964 C4 - New Daily '73 Alfa GTV - 90% done 50% to go '65 912 - Welding in process |
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If you have a motive or other brand brake bleeder, or a garden variety bug sprayer--it makes it alot easier to change the fluid--I outfitted my bleeder with an inline on/off valve too, so that I could better control topping off.
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1990 964 C4 Coupe & 1991 964 C2 Coupe (current) 1989 911 Targa (sold) 1996 993 Cab. (sold) 1999 x2 Boxster (sold) 2006 Cayman S (my daily) |
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muck-raker
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Coastal PNW
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I just did this job a couple of weeks ago. You may need a small breaker bar to get those fill plugs loose. One of them was super tight, so I used a small jack under the breaker bar handle and gently jacked it until it popped loose.
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STONE '88 Cabriolet, using EP Slick 20w50 partial synthetic Snake Oil...just as Rommel intended. ![]() Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations ![]() |
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Cheers! “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” Leonardo Da Vinci |
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By the way...You do not need a washer as they are tapered.
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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The 915 plugs are tapered metric pipe thread which is self sealing since the threads on plug vs. trans case create interference due to the taper. Which I think is stupid because they invite seizure. That's why they don't use seal rings. Shouldn't use tapered threads on something that's intended to be occasionally taken apart, unlike pipe systems. and do not use seal rings.
The G50 uses straight metric threads and the plugs do have a shoulder and do use seal rings. Incidentally, the seal rings are the EXACT same size as the rings for the oil drain plugs on the engine case and oil tank. Seal rings can be reused if you don't have any new ones. Think about it, they're a mild squish under a fair amount of torque, and not sealing under pressure. So it's not really hard to get a good seal when reusing them. Just don't overtighten the drain plugs. Even with proper "straight" threads, the G50 plugs also tend to get stuck, even when tightened to the proper torque spec. 22 ft lbs (30 Nm) is the number.
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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Always Be Fixing Cars
Join Date: Nov 2012
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Thanks for the tips. Is there clearance to get an electric impact wrench (with 10mm hex attachment) to the fill plug ? Based on Kidrock's description of a jack under a ratchet it sounds like the breaking torque would be more safely (in terms of rounding the fastener and rocking the car) applied by impact.
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'91 964 C4 - New Daily '73 Alfa GTV - 90% done 50% to go '65 912 - Welding in process |
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muck-raker
Join Date: Jan 2009
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as far as clearance goes, yes for the drain plug. The fill plug? Eh, not so much. I don't have a lot of fancy tools (see "lift"). I just jack it up, put it safely on a stand on one side, and keep a jack or tire under the car while I yank on the breaker bar. Once I've removed the plugs, I insert the pump hose into the fill hole, then lower the car. Proceed to fill until the gear oil starts backing out the fill hole...close to 1 gallon, just a bit less.
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STONE '88 Cabriolet, using EP Slick 20w50 partial synthetic Snake Oil...just as Rommel intended. ![]() Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations ![]() |
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
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Agreed drain plug is no problem. It's the fill plug that's the pesky sucker. Not much clearance there due to the clutch hyd. rubber hose and the throttle linkage bellcrank if I recall by memory. Your typical 10mm hex key with a length of pipe slipped over it, or a breaker bar with a length of pipe on it should give you the leverage you need.
Just resist the urge to tighten it too much. Snug is plenty tight. When you torque the drain plug (because you have so much clearance to allow use of a torque wrench), you're going to think "no way that's tight enough." It is. Because if you tighten it more, it's a real SOB to get loose later on. Mostly likely because the gear oil lubes it so well that you're technically over-tightening it
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muck-raker
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probably going to get flamed for this, but I put a very small amount of anti-seize lubricant on the plug threads upon re-install. YMMV
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Schleprock
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