Engine sound pad

[carnut169]

After replacing my airbox w/ a cone type filter I noticed that the airbox has been holding up the sound pad and now it is drooping. Can't have that. I have done a search and it seems the glue is the real problem.... Seems like removing the pad would reduce weight, and even help the engine to run cooler (it is like a blanket around the engine). The car is a Cabriolet so noise is not an issue, but aesthetics is! Will it be possible to get the glue residue out of there w/ the engine in the car? Should I just leave it alone, or perhaps cut out the top part of the pad? Any recommendations for products that will remove the glue? (Goof-off?) Thanks!

[carnut169]

*bump*

[Moses]

If it were me, I'd just trim off the top of the sound pad. But then, I'm really lazy.

[Huey581]

My engine pad was falling apart so I took the whole thing out. I also have a cab and do not notice the sound difference. The glue
left is a messy sight, however I now have a new project to do! seams like when one thing is fixed, another pops up!

[howie944]

Just a thought and this might work. If the pad is just sagging you might be able to inject some adhesive through the mat using a hypo or something close and tack the pad back up against the body. If the back of the pad is crumbling this might not work but then again might be worth a try.

[stormcrow]

Sean,

That sound pad doesn't weigh that much. What you might try is take a box cutter (no airplanes here) and slice open the part that's sagging. Get a can of 3M spray adhesive and spray inside the area that is sagging. Once it has set up you can push up the pad and it should stay.

I must warn you though, the foam backing on the pad may have deteriorated and turned into powder. If thats the case, then you have a mess to clean up.

Steve

[Kemo]

What if you removed the pad altogether and used some of that 'spray-in' sound deadening stuff? I bet you could spray it right over the glue.

[expat]

Ditto Huey on all counts.

My cab also had the droop. Tore it all out because it was making a mess everywhere. Now have dried-up glue to remove. How does one do this?

I think once its removed and either the original paint is polished up or resprayed, it will look much better than a new cover. I know some people will not like the less than stock look but I could care less!

Cheers
Mark

[CEO]

When I repainted my 911 I removed the motor and that stupid sound pad. I thought I could just use some solevent to remove the glue. Nope it was there for good. Even the paint shop solevents were not strong enough to remove the glue. So I added Dynomat to make it look better and tone it down even more and it looks great and killed a lot of the sound too. Oh got to run time to take my test

[Sean Hamilton]

Originally posted by expathk
.......also had the droop. Tore it all out because it was making a mess everywhere. Now have dried-up glue to remove......

Ditto for mine too. Ripped out the entire mess and not inclined to replace it. I can put my $$ elsewhere. Besides, there maybe a very slight increase in engine noise into the cab but hey, it's music to my ears...... pump up the volume.

As fore the glue...... I've even tried acetone!! and it still didn't budge the muck.

[racemor]

Sean, mine was coming apart doing the same as yours. I took it out and cleaned as much loose stuffout as I could. Eventually I will drop the motor and respray the bay. Media blasting will hopefully remove the glue. Probably more extreme than you want to get, but if you were removing the motor for another project you could consider it.

Tom

[speeder]

Can we just say that ALL 911 sound pads fall off and crumble? It is one of several annoying quality lapses, (from headstuds to door pockets), on an otherwise well-made car. ALL of which are a PIA and/or expensive to fix, and all inexcusable from an engineering standpoint. Another $5.00 per car and they could have got an engine sound pad that lasts forever.

Unfortunately, there is no easy way to remove adhesive, (especially w/ engine in car), removing dried-out remnants of old pad is a mess, (putty knife and shop vac job), not even sure if you can install new one properly w/ engine in. A GOOD soundpad in that location would improve engine accoustics, even if you are one of those "who needs a stereo?" people, you want to hear the EXHAUST NOTE of the car, not the valve train filtered through tin. And the soundpad weighs nothing. About the same as 1/4 gallon of gas.

[GeorgeK]

Mine got out before the acid bath. Never looked back.

GeorgeK

[Rustbucket]

Holy Smokes George!

Wish my living room was that clean.

[walt]

I did a partial engine drop which really opens the area up back there. Removed the old pad and adhesive with 3M adhesive remover (08984). Opted for a non-original sound pad with silver backing. Looks better, in my opinion, than the original. Good luck.

[speeder]

Walt, So the adhesive-remover worked? Did it remove the paint as well? Also, where did you get the aftermarket sound pad? TIA.

George, that's a pretty engine bay, but I would tuck that rubber, (engine bay seal), behind the tin. It is supposed to be a more or less airtight seal, keeps hot air from exhaust/bottom of motor from being recycled through the fan.

[carnut169]

Thanks for the suggestions. I am going to take a look Saturday and perhaps get it out.... at least the top part as Steve recommended. Sure would love to get my engine compartment as clean as yours George!
Hows your car comming along Tom?

[GeorgeK]

Guys, thanks for the kind words. Would you believe I have been seen waxing it??
But the engine itself is nowhere as clean. It is the only thing of the whole car that was taken out, put on a shelf then put back in, of the whole resto.
Speeder: right on, one of those "to do" things that I always forget.
GeorgeK