SSI's weekend project / damn oil lines

[osidak]

I removed the hard oil line that connects to the pump last night. All I have to say is Hans and Fritz must be on steroids. Damn nut was on tight. Couple of questions though on the new line.

As you can see in the photo the the replacement line (#15) has a support bracket on it. Where does this attach.



When under the car it looks like it should attach to the engine sheet metal but is no where close to one of the 10mm bolts on the sheet metal. If I bend the bracket to get it close then the hard oil line is touching portions of the transmission and I would think this is bad (might wear through due to vibration) Do I need to attach this clamp to anything? Do I need to tweek the line to make it fit?

Second question. I am about to tackle the oil line that bolts to the TStat (#16). I have always heard this is a real b!tch to remove due to different metals. Dan Petchel suggested that I cut the nut and this would loosen it enough to not damage the TStat. I plan to do this but looking at it I didn't see anything to counter hold the TStat when I apply pressure on the oil line. Am I missing it or do you guys have any suggestions on how to do this with the least amount of potential damage.

I have a repair kit on the way in case I do remove the threads.

Also I trial fitted the SSI's last night once I had the hard line off and it seems valve adjustments will be more difficult on the exhaust side now and it also appears they will be subject to more heat due to the exhaust pipe being right under the valve covers. What are your thoughts on this. Would something along the lines of a HeetSheet be useful (don't want to open a can of worms on that one)

[john walker's workshop]

a disc cutter on a dremel will cut the t/stat nut enough to split it with a chisel. there is nothing to counterhold the t/stat but the other 3 lines, which seems to be enough. getting the new nut tight on the t/stat is a challenge, being there's no room for a wrench without removing the outer line, which you would rather not do. this snapon 1 7/16" tool does get in there. mostly used to tighten up the new line. the tab on the other line does attach to the lower of the two 6mm bolts thru the sheet metal. maybe tweek the curve of the line a bit.

[osidak]

Well I got the oil line off. It really pains a person to swing a hammer at your Porsche. I broke the stud that clamps the oil lines in place so I gotta figure that one out as I really don't want to drill a new hole and I have nothing to weld with.

I see what you mean about getting the new line tight on the t/stat side. Off to Sears to see if they have something that will work if not gotta track down the SnapOn man on Monday.

It is going to take some serious tweeking to make that hard line bolt into place I am thinking I may just buy a longer bolt and use some nuts to lock the line in place and also lock the bold to the sheet metal.

Thanks for the help John. I thought the change over was going to be quick. Famous last words

[HawgRyder]

When working on lines that have 2 wrench style...(2 wrenches needed to loosen or tighten) I use the old squeeze with one hand method.
Think of it as the old style hand excerciser gimmick.
You know the type...it has a spring that is compressed by your hand...object - stronger grip.
OK...now set up you 2 wrenches so that they are apart just enough to grip with one hand...now grab and squeeze.
You will be amazed at the torque you can put on those wrenches!!
I use this method to loosen or tighten line nuts.
Good luck
Bob

[73911guy]

Osidak
Can you send me a larger scan of the diagram you posted in your original message? I'm considering adding a front cooler and haven't seen a diagram like the one you posted.

BTW, wife is still laughing about Hans and Fritz. They did a lot of the assembly work on my car, too. Ball joint nuts, tie rod ends, windshield wiper motor, etc.

Jim Dasher
'73 911T

[osidak]

Jim I sent you an email with the links to the diagrams.

Bob,
I was using the two wrench method you described. Didn't work. I soaked the union is pentrating(?) oil and tried again didn't work. I heated the nut to a nice cherry red still no go. When I say no go, let me be more descriptive.

Picture a 190lb guy laying on concrete (no creeper) one wrench is jammed against the crank case and I pulling so hard on the other wrench I drag my self under the car. Took me banging on the wrench with a hammer to get the nut loose.

Hans and Fritz had to have been on steriods that day. In any case I am out of action until tomorrow evening when I get home from work.

Thanks for the advise and help. Cutting the nut off the T/Stat didn't damage the threads at all so I won't need the repair kit after all.

[73911guy]

Thanks for the link - Its the clearest copy of this I've seen.

Thanks

Jim Dasher