Connecting rod options

[Carrera Charlie]

As I'm nearing the reassembly of my 2.0 liter "E" engine, I'm questioning the use of stock rods vs. aftermarket rods. I just got my 906 pistons (what a work of art!!) and would like to reduce the moving mass underneath them.

I would like to know your thoughts regarding stock vs. Pauter vs. Carrillo rods (or others I may have missed).

It is a given that I will use ARP bolts on stock rods if I go that route (I want to avoid the failed bolt problem which is the reason for my present engine rebuild).

I look forward to your input!

Cheers!

[TimT]

If your not going to run you engine at high revs ( over7800- 8000rpm) for extended periods of time, the stock rods+arp bolt solution should work fine.

If your budget allows I'd opt for the Pauter rods.

Carillos are fine as well, seems like they have an attitude problem from being "king of the hill" for to long

[pwd72s]

Which brings up another question I've often wondered about...IF I ever need a rebuild in my lifetime, what parts used by racers would extend the life of a "mostly stock" street driven engine, what parts would be a waste of money? For example, I opted for hyperuetectic pistons in my old mopar, even though I knew the engine would never exceed the stock rev limits...but I went for them, hoping they'd be tougher & longer lived than the stock pistons. Damnit Wayne...publish that book! I'm tired of Sweet Old Bruce being the only "authority" available to us unwashed masses. Sorry Charlie, (I've ALWAYS wanted to say that! ) But my knowledge/experience doesn't cover the best con rod selection.)

[Carrera Charlie]

I expect to redline the engine frequently while using it as a daily driver, as well as take it to autocross and track days. I'm thinking along the lines of pwd72s that I want to have the strongest engine possible without going overboard.

I'm also thinking about lightening up the flywheel, then having everything balanced as well.

My assumption is I'll get longer life with lightened moving components - how does this match with the board member's experience?

Thanks!!

PS Believe me, I've gotten used to hearing "Sorry Charlie" (after all, I've been married for 17 years ... ooops!! ) Ha, ha, ha!!

[Carrera Charlie]

bump

[HawgRyder]

I remember an article several years ago about composite rods.
They were built out of fiberglass and carbon fiber or similar stuff.
I think they came from MSD...or MTD ... something like that.
The benefit would be the weight of course.
You might also try some of the aluminum rods made for drag racing...Mickey Thomson..etc.
Hope this helped
Bob

[ChrisBennet]

After I destroyed a bearing and crank in my 3.2 . I wanted to make a bullet proof engine. After some research this is what I did and why.
Raceware rod bolts: Allows me to run the engine at high RPM's without worrying about the bottom end. My 3.2 (3.4 now) has smaller rod bolts and heavier pistons so your needs may be different
Bigger oil pump: More volume never hurts. After all oil is what your bearings are running on and what cools your motor.
AASCO valve spring and Ti retainers: Lets me miss all the shifts I want without worrying about it.
-Chris

[zuffenhausen]

Aluminum rods are made to last the quarter mile and that's it. Forget you ever heard of 'em.

In "Tweety" (3.4l) we are running Pauter rods and they are beautiful and strong. Highly recommended.

-zuff

[A Quiet Boom]

Yeah, forget about aluminum rods, they are NOT designed for extended usage.

As to your question about aftermarket parts extending engine life, any part that is both stronger and lighter than stock in the reciprocating assembly will extend engine life. (less reciprocating weigh=less stress and bearing wear=longer engine life) this assumes that the engine is kept in a proper state of tune of course. Bad A/F ratio or spark timing can ruin even the best parts.