Here's the upgrade that was installed on my car by a previous owner. There is a sticker on the blower that indicates it was upgraded to 134a in 2003, but I have no record of what specifically was done with hoses etc.

Of the changes I can see, they added a vent under the dash to replace the bowtie vent.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369096599.jpg

They also wired in a second condenser blower at the front. Unfortunately by doing this, the encroached on the spare tire well, so right now I run without a spare tire in the trunk.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369096150.jpg

I charged the system with a DIY 12a recharge kit from my local auto parts store.

It was about 70 degrees outside when I did the test:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369096389.jpg

I was getting around 50 degrees with the probe in the vent.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369096498.jpg

The system seems to keep the car the coolest if I run with the sunroof closed and the windows just slightly cracked open.

ghiaholic

No comment on the changes in vents or the front cond blower motors,
but i'd say your not as cold as you should be based on your vent temps
and ambient. Have someone test the pressures and temps.

Why?

ghiaholic

If you have a service gauge set connect them up.
Start the engine, leave the engine deck lid 'gently' resting on the service hoses (you don't want the lid lock to engage, quite a bugger to fix things after that happens).

Have all your windows up, fresh air vents closed (top levers to the left), heat off (levers down), sunroof closed. Turn the thermostat knob on the left fully clockwise to max cold, turn the fan speed switch on the right to its 2nd speed. Have your thermometer in the center vent above the radio. With the engine idling, the front condenser blower motor(s) should both be running and compressor clutch engaged.

Let the engine idle for 5 minutes or so and advise the following at idle:
Low side pressure,
High side pressure,
Vent temperature,
Outside air temperature around the car.
Write these observations down.

If you have a digital electronic thermometer compare it to the analog unit you are using in the freezer and outside and advise if there is a difference between the 2.

Let us know. If you need further help just drop me a PM.

Griff

With the engine idling knowing the OAT may not really suffice due to engine's radient heating of the rear lid condensor. So should you have an IR guage the sensed temperature of the rear lid condensor and the front lip condensor might be helpful.

The edits seemed appropriate, hope you don't mind....

LMAO.. Wwest.

if I may remind you of your previous post to the question of your Porsche AC experience: Post 36

"So, how many 911's and 930's have you (Wwest) put AC service gauges on during the past 30 some years? NONE!

Just let the guy do the tests so we can all see what's happening.

I don't see you saying my "edits" weren't appropriate....

Why did you write, compose, "The ICE Project" if there is no gain in one's depth of knowledge in reading same absent actaul use of "AC service gauges"

Wwest - test your kit, or STFU. Seriously - I'm starting to think you genuinely have a man-boner for Kuehl. Every person that hounded me like you hound Kuehl - I have slept with. So, I can't help but think you either have a secret man-crush on Kuehl or you are genuinely a troll. No other person would go through this much effort to NOT prove that their system works unless those two previous statements were true.

Cowboy the **** up and test your kit, admit you love Kuehl, or STFU already.

I have worked on my stock 85 Carrera A/C for the past few years and now I get 40 degrees at the vents! So my Wife and I went for a ride to Coronado the other day and I noticed even at 40 I was still sweating. The bottom line is this...Our cars have too much glass with a very hot air cooled motor in the rear and too few vents. In other words it is a terrible design and just does not work very well unless you change out the entire unit and replace everything with a different design. I have decided to just drive my car and not worry about the A/C any longer. Just uses more gas!

More Vents!

78-85 year cars

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369161200.gif

Yeah Wwest,

Get rid of the crush. My girl can whip your butt! lol.

That's the great thing about the internet - some guy with zero automotive AC experience can pretend to be an expert. And when confronted about lack of experience, shouts to the world "prove me wrong!"

Wrong on the facts, wrong on the theory, wrong on the physics. But an expert nonetheless.

OK, I just checked my 85 Carrera owners manual and it says to check your refrigerant once a year because the fluid diminishes gradually during operation. So.......our cars do leak over time!

Correct Nick. And the shop manual says the same thing.
That's because there is 40 feet on non barrier hose.

Thank you kuehl

Now, Griff - you *know* that's just simply untrue.

LOL

I have an 86 911 and I live in sunny and extremely muggy South Florida. I have done and tried pretty much all of the recommended mods to my AC to the tune of about $2000.00 over the past few years and when I pull the car out of the garage and the in car temps are around an ambient of 80-90 degrees I can get vent temps of around 35-45 degrees so I know my AC works.

The problem that I have and to some degree I am sure everyone else has is heat soaking in the Florida sun, even with the windows tinted and a sunshade in the front window if the car sits for an hour or two in the sun the interior temps are around 120 degrees easy. Given enough time the car will cool itself down and temps at the vent are 60 degrees almost immediately after I turn the AC on but even with Griffiths upgraded Evap fan motor, which is much better than stock, it still can't move enough air in the cabin to sufficiently cool down the interior in a timely manner.

What have you guys tried to move a higher volume of air in the cabin. I would rather have cool air moving at a higher volume than really cold air that I can't even feel on my face while I am driving!

I just don't think it's going to happen in an old air cooled car. I bet most 84-89 911 owners A/C does not even work in their cars. Great cars, terrible A/C.

Here is how you get comfortable AC

I replaced and currently installing everything new from Griffiths. High quality pieces - can't wait to get it going. Hoses, fans, condensers, fender condensers, drier, switches and under knee pad vents (tri-vent system). Cost was around $3K - will be worth it