Electrical question about fuse panel

[tassie targa 76]

G,day all

As parts of a major restoration in am in the process or upgrading my fuse panel

The previous owners had made a mess if it in the past

Using a full colour sc wiring schematic ( mine is a 76 but it seems the same with a few exceptions) and the layout on the original cover I am hoping to at least get the fuses to match the items.

Something that didn't seem to matter to others

I started by trying to Identify each wire and labelling also lots of photos

I have purchases some new blade style fuse blocks to replace the old and damaged panels.

I have a reasonable grip of the schematic and to date things seem to be lining up

My question is about which side of the fuse each wire goes to

It looks like the power side is the top and the out is the bottom.

I understand that some fuses get there power from a switch or relay while others get thers directly from battery.

I also understand about the bridging of some fuses.

I am yet to identify all as some wires have been burnt out and replaced( rear stop tail )and I have yet to workout where they are now but they did work before pull down

There are also a number of relays that have been fitted and I would like to replace them with porsche ones

I guess I should just get the panel sorted first then worry about the upgraded relays

Any advise or suggestion would be greatly appreciated

Regards Michael

[tassie targa 76]

[tassie targa 76]

If you would like to have a look at restoration from beginning I have a thread called

"Here we go". not sure how to up load the link

Regards michael

[Porboynz]

The power feed is the top side, you can tell by the looped terminals. There would be no point looping the fused side. What do the new fuse panels look like because the originals look like they would clean up just fine, but your choice. Simply start at one end and work your way to the other one fuse at a time, identifying the correct wire from the schematic and replacing whatever is missing. I have a set of A3 size wiring schematics that I laminated, very handy for the job you are doing. You will need a meter with a long lead to check some wires back to the dash switches, clip leads are easier as you can attach one end and if the meter has a buzzer function use that for basic continuity. Double check everything. When done I connected a 12V jumpstart battery with a headlamp bulb wired in series to check there were no major shorts. The brighter the bulb glows the more current is being drawn by whatever function or accessory you are testing, but it can not draw enough current to melt wires, its limited by the maximum current draw of the bulb. Worked for me, its an old auto electrician trick.

[tassie targa 76]

Thanks for the advice the bulb trick sounds like a winner

Yes the fuse blocks are not to bad except for the 8 block has a burnt out connection

I was just going on the premis that the newer blade fuse would be a better option for me, I'm just doing a car for myself with a few hot rod or upgrades trying to make a basically trouble free car

Regards Michael

[tazzieman]

Originally Posted by tassie targa 76

T
I was just going on the premis that the newer blade fuse would be a better option for me, I'm just doing a car for myself with a few hot rod or upgrades trying to make a basically trouble free car

Regards Michael

Looking after the future of the car , well done , I'm not needing to tackle this job but perhaps my son will have to , in a few decades

[tassie targa 76]

Yes , trying to future proof but its a BIG job

[Algernon]

I see a lot of insulated crimp connectors - is crimping alone considered OK - or is it better to use un-insulated, then crimp and solder, and then add heatshrink? I never feel confident with crimping alone.
The new ATO fuse block needs connectors fitting on every connection, rather than bare wires into screw terminals, so you need a high reliability solution or you could be creating a (new) nightmare? Just asking.