I was wondering what satin black did you end up using? Thanks

I used the rustoleum 777 over rustoleum self etch primer. The gloss level looks dead on to me. What I don't know is how tough it'll be and how to sand out the dust and recoat. I'm going to try some 400-1000 grit paper on a block then lightly re-coating and will post an update.

If the benefit of the Wurth is supposed to be how easily it goes on... I really can't imagine anything going on too much better than the Rustoleum. What I can't answer is if lacquer (Wurth) is more appropriate for this application than enamel (Rustoleum). I read this which to me suggests enamel is a better choice, but I know very little about paint.

Enamel Paint vs Lacquer Paint | DoItYourself.com

Well enamel dries more slowly than lacquer so there is more of an opportunity for dust specks etc to get on the surface. I have also found that painting with an air gun (model cars) I have less dirt ending up in the paint than with a can. The dirt specs should sand out and you can reshoot a light coat after sanding.

About how long should I expect 3 light coats of rattle can enamel take to reach full hardness? I checked after about 48h and found that I could still dig the paint up with my fingernail. It's been about 65 during the day, cool at night. I painted at around 50. Did I do something wrong?

Enamel is usually baked when you paint a car. Can you give them some indirect heat? Strong light bulb at least?

Read a bunch and learned that enamel does have very long cure times. I put my painted wheels in the sun for a day and got them feeling a bit better. Some say a week or even month can go by before full hardness. I painted one of the wheels on the car yesterday - makes a huge difference. When I get the center caps, lug nuts painted and new tires on the car it'll be that much better, especially on a white car.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1367774222.jpg

Masked off the porsche emblem, scuffed the paint and resprayed the center caps. I like the not-over-restored look they have (see before-after pic). Still need to do the lug nuts (or not). Overall, looking good.

BTW I wrote to rustoleoum to ask about cure times. They recommend no heat for the 7777, but did say that it requires 7-10 days for maximum hardness. This info does not appear on the can. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1368380767.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1368380791.jpg

Looks great

Thanks - and PS Tire Express in N Haven was great. They told me about an hour to mount the Hankooks and threw me the keys to the company Pathfinder in the mean time. Cruised around the strip malls while they got mounted. Still haven't scrubbed the new tire slickness off them but will post to my tire thread when I do.

7 to 10 days sounds minimally right, and even then it is not really hard. Enamel, in my experience, takes even more time to get as hard as it can get.

Gloss
 

I just had my 88 carrera wheels professionally done in a gloss black and they are stunning. screw factory original the gloss just "Pops"

Just shave around the inside diameter where it meets the wheel face. Let the lug nuts take the rest of the paint off. Risk is paint comes loose in the lug recess and takes some of the face paint with it.

Really nice job on the wheels. Prep is the key as you are aware and you worked it correctly. Great payoff.

I had my Glasurit jobber mix up some 22 line paint with gloss flattener "on the side" so I could dial it in, used hardener as well, and looks no better than the rustoleum. I have taken a few stone chips that knocked 1/8" chips out. The enamel, being a touch softer, may be less likely to leave a crater.

Nice. I wonder if gloss wheels and satin roll bar on a Targa would clash? Doubt it, but that would be my fear on that car.

Add me in as a +1 positive data point for the Rustoleum Satin Black. I just painted one wheel and it came out like R-MM's. I had three good looking wheels and one (LR) that looked a lot like the left center cap above. Looked like clear chalking and flaking. Maybe heat from the Cat. I don't know.

I cleaned the wheel really well then wet sanded with 300 to take everything down to a nice even surface. I did not take the entire center all the way to the metal. Used quarters to mask the holes. First couple of light coats had me worried. Lots of texture in the paint. Once I summoned the courage to lay on a thick enough coat of paint the paint surface settled/flowed out very nicely. I timed it ahead of a business trip so the wheel could sit for a week.

My wife says she can't see any difference in the newly painted wheel vs. the others. I think you'd be hard pressed to see any real difference from more than a foot away. Not bad at all for less than $5 of rattle can paint. We'll see how long in lasts. -J