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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 20
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Play in Stomski Racing Shift Coupler?
I have a bad grind going into third gear, so I decided to try and replace the shift bushings (as per the Pelican Technical Article suggestion) in hopes that it may be an easy fix. When I got to the rear shift coupler, I discovered that a previous owner had already installed the Stomski Racing coupler. With all of the other bushings replaced, there still seems to be a significant amount of side to side play. I assume some amount of play is normal, but how much?
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 416
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There is no play in my Stomski coupler, but there IS a lot of play in the neutral position of the 915 linkage. How much is "too much"? Check out other 911's. Some of that play can be removed by installing a Seine Shifter which spring loads the linkage away from 1 - 2, just as the factory spring does for 3 - 4.
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Howard '76 911S '53 Nash (!) '01 Audi TT '82 GPZ-550 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 20
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I took another look at it and found that the play is not in the coupler, but rather something after it? Is this normal? I'm not sure how the linkage connects to the transmission itself?
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Project Addicted
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Shore. MD
Posts: 919
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That is the shaft that goes into the trans ti shift the gears. What direction is the movement?
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Jon 1966 912 1976 911 3.4 Backdate Project 1986 944 |
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Registered User
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Actually, I have a similar situation.
I replaced all the bushings, which where not bad at all. The coupler is stock, with stock bushing, but very straight and stiff. I followed the factory shifter adjustment procedure found in several threads. AND.....the result is not worse, but not better... It is my first 915 , so I have no idea how a 915 should shift. But by looking to several videos, mine is not part of the best. 2nd and 4th, are hard to put. Finally, I also have a play back and forth of the shaft coming from the transmission (the one linked to the coupler) . it is around 5 to 8 mm. Is it possible to reduce the play. Should I push the shaft back and adjust the shift rod? |
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Registered User
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VW121, I have an '84 with a 915 tranny and the shifting from 1 - 2 is harsh. I added a short shift kit and a WEVO PSJ (Precision Shift Joint) and noticed a slight difference, but it not like a modern shift. I purchased the car form my cousin and he said once you get the hang of the 915 tranny you will be a 'Porsche Pilot'. You must realize this car is not made for California freeways but for winding European mountain roads. My wife cannot shift the car and I am looking into a Gate Shift so she does not mistake for 4th for 2nd while doing 70mph on the freeway. The shifting is mellow and easy. It's not a Mustang... it is like melted butter. I am still learning the nuances of the car, but that 1st to 2nd for me is irritating when a little Honda Boys pull up next to me and I grind 2nd 100ft from the green light... a very humbling experience to say the least; but by third they are a rear view mirror blur.
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------------------ 84 Guards Red 911 Carrera Cabriolet Wide Body, Cat-Back, Fab Speed Exhaust, SW Chip, K&H Air Intake |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
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There are three things everyone should do to make the 915 shift much much better:
1) The Porsche factory short shift. This well engineered product shortens the fore and aft throw (but not so much that it makes the physical effort much harder), but - and importantly - it does not change the side to side motion - the three shift planes are still the same distance apart. You want that so there is less chance of getting into the wrong plane, and thus the wrong gear. Muscle memory is great, but you don't want to push it. 2) Add the Seine (or WEVO, or Rennshift) shift kit. Requires a little welding, but on the shift lever so you can position the part that needs welding and test things, and then take it to a welder for the work. This puts spring tension on the side to side motion, so when in neutral the level is always in the 3/4 plane unless you pull it toward 1/2, or push it toward 5/R (where the factory already has a spring). Huge difference. 3) Ditch the stock coupler bushings. These are oval by design in the fore and aft direction, which adds a lot of slop in that direction. Porsche must have had some reason for this (copied from VW and 356 practice), though no one has ever explained the thinking behind that to my satisfaction (that is, that they knew why VW/Porsche did this). See the discussion under Coupler Whisperer for details of one way to deal with this. The various fancier aftermarket (e.g., Stomski, Wevo)links are good, but really more than you need. A brass bushing substituted works great. I adapted some urethane bushings which had round holes and that works great. You can bore the stock bushing (even old worn ones if they haven't disintegrated) and sleeve them with brass. But do something to get rid of that oval feature, so that as soon as you move the shift lever forward or backward, the shift rod inside the transmission starts moving also (it goes the opposite direction from your hand, but no matter). Plus, if by chance the ball cup part at the base of the shift lever is worn, replace it. Ditto the largish O bushing just behind all this which supports the shift tube if it is worn. You will be amazed at how these fairly simple things transform the shifting. All the vagueness is gone. You can upshift from 2 to 3 by pushing forward - the spring will move it over to 3d as it passes through neutral. Shift to 4th? Just pull back. Shift from 5th to 4th (or 3d)? Just pull back, release, and pull or push. Sure, not quite as nice as my 07 Turbo shifts. But miles ahead of the stock 915 setup. |
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