Steering puck wear question and bearing pressing

[PK 77 911]

For those of you that have performed this task maybe you can help me out here.

I am half way done.

#1. I noticed that the steel, bolt sleeves in the rubber steering puck are quite loose
in the side that attaches to the column. Is this normal?

#2. Did you have to press off and re-press on the 2 bearings.

#3. To get the needle bearing cage out (my needles just fell in when I took the
pinion out) Did you have to press it in to the housing or out of the housing
or does it not matter?

I have researched this topic at length but did not find the answers to these questions.

Thanks

[Nickshu]

Originally Posted by PK 77 911

#1. I noticed that the steel, bolt sleeves in the rubber steering puck are quite loose
in the side that attaches to the column. Is this normal?

They are loose by design. I installed a brand new one and the sleeves were loose on the new one as well.

Originally Posted by PK 77 911

#2. Did you have to press off and re-press on the 2 bearings.

Yes. I did not use a "press" but I did use a cold chisel on the needle bearing race/housing by tapping it out from the backside engaging the "lip" of the race that is exposed and accessible thru the opposite hole in the rack.

On the roller bearing I rigged up a "press" on my bench vice with a socket and socket extension to get it off the pinion shaft. New one installed the same, pressed on with bench vice and sockets.

Originally Posted by PK 77 911

#3. To get the needle bearing cage out (my needles just fell in when I took the
pinion out) Did you have to press it in to the housing or out of the housing
or does it not matter?

I put it in the freezer, coated with grease and tapped it into place with an appropriately sized socket. Just make sure you don't get it off-kilter when you start tapping it in.

Overall the entire rebuild was very easy. I am sure you saw the lengthy steering rack rebuild thread, I posted a few pics there.

[PK 77 911]

Thanks very much fort he concise answers. I thought for sure it was worn. I will give it the DIY effort on the bearing install. If not my Mechanic has a press that he will most likely let me use.

I did see the excellent post. It was the reason I tackled this my self.

I noticed one post talked about lash. I know what it is (play) but where is supposed to be.

Also my re- alignment marks came off of the steering shaft at the universal joint in the uninstall mode. Any tips to get the positioning correct.

Thanks very much for your help.

PK

[Nickshu]

I found lash on mine was within spec by just reinstalling with the same number of shims as were present upon disassembly.

The u joints go back on so that the flat area on the shaft faces the pinch opening on the u joint. Center the wheel and center the rack and you should be close.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[Walt Fricke]

Yes, I don't think you can get even one spline either way beyoid the flat postion with the through bolt. So this should take care of itself. The U joints are offset by 30 degrees, which compensates for the eccentric motions they have when angled. One motion cancels out the other so the end shaft turns just like the steering wheel does.

The steering effects of this one weren't as evident as one might think.



I assume that, as well as a new hockey puck, you bought new end plate/tabs, and new cylindrical inserts. If these inserts are the least little bit worn on the ends (too short), you can't get rid of a sort of stick/slip motion. It is self-limiting, but irritating to have. When I had that I even purchased new bolts.

[Nickshu]

The inserts are included with the new puck. The bendable washers are sold separately.

[PK 77 911]

my Puck doesn't look like this. It i solid. It looks like a Hockey puck. It is the holes in the rubber where the sleeves go that are elongated. There are no cracks or anything and the washers are fine.

[Nickshu]

Originally Posted by PK 77 911

my Puck doesn't look like this. It i solid. It looks like a Hockey puck. It is the holes in the rubber where the sleeves go that are elongated. There are no cracks or anything and the washers are fine.

My puck looked good too and looked like yours not the one above.

BUT....its over 30 years old, made of rubber, and I didn't want to take this apart again for another 30 years so I put in a new one.