R&R Gas Tank

[Sunroof]

Help!!!!
I changed out my fuel filter after 12K and low and behold that black, fine, "river bottom" silt came flowing out of the filter. That I believe is my problem for messing up my WUR, Fuel Distributor and injectors. Cause and affect. I have the smaller tank (big spare tire) and it's probably original (new in 1973!). I did not yet see an R&R article in Tech. articles, so can anyone give me a blow by blow on removal and replacement. I found a repro. tank for $375.00 and wonder if they are worth it and will hold up or does it pay to get the inside resealed or buy a used and newer OEM unit? All suggestions as always are welcome.

Thanks
Bob
'73 T

[dtw]

Hmmmm...someone fill in the blanks if I leave anything out:

0-Spray some penetrating oil in the 3 allen-head bolts that secure the fuel tank.

1-Disconnect fuel lines from MFI/carbs and drop them into a secure container. Turn your key position to 'run' and use the fuel pump to drain your gas tank. Do this in open, ventilated area into approved containers.

2-Disconnect fuel feed and return lines under car, from bottom of tank. There are some mesh filters here that'll give you a good indicator of what's happening in your tank.

3-Disconnect vent lines in boot area. Be very careful as some of the plastic parts are quite brittle after 3 decades.

4-Open fuel filler door. Disconnect two hose clamps holding filler neck and fuel tank main fill orifice together- y'know, the big rubber sleeve. Twist apart until you have the filler sleeve off the tank. You can yank it all the way out of the door, or just leave it.

5-Go back now and remove the three allen head bolts/retaining plates that hold the tank in place.

6-Try yanking the tank (by the neck) to free it from the 30 yr. old seal. When that doesn't work, put a jack under the tank and use a board between the jack and tank to distribute the load. Use the jack to pop the seal. Tank's out, have a beer.

If you want "original" then seal up your tank. Otherwise grab a nice used one with bigger capacity. You'll need a space saver spare if you do that, though. No need to spend 375 on repro/new when there are plenty of cheap, late model used ones. Go ahead and reseal it before you install it- check with Eastwood and POR15, they both have great products for reseal jobs.

-d

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Dave
'72 911T to '73 RSR Replica Project

[This message has been edited by dtw (edited 08-24-2001).]

[joehahn]

...I am in the middle of this project as we speak! I would bag the part about draining out of fuel pump as you have to get under car to get to fittings anyway. Therefore, amend dave's "#1" to say: Jack up front of car (put clean bucket...I used bucket as I was burning leaves with excess gas, you may want to funnel it back into can for lawn mower or whatever but it will be rusty). Undo drain plug and drain gas.

I did this last night and spilled a little (it comes out a LOT faster than you think and it bounces off the cross piece between torsion bars). I am so pissed that I did not know the "jack under the tank" trick! I was using the "giant screwdriver under the lip and pray you don't punch hole" trick.

As far as refurbishing, I followed the advice of another member and got the "POR 15 Tank Sealer Kit" It was 50 bucks and was here in 2 days. Looks fairly brainless and the only downside is 5 day turnaround with all the drying times. email me if you want more info.

Joe 68L

[Sunroof]

Hey..
Thanks guys. I just went over the POR15 web site and a buddy of mine swears its the best around. I was relieved that I can now put out the $$$$ into some new brake parts rather then a new or used tank unit. Your right about the step by step approach from cleaner to sealer with the POR15. That is the route I will take. By the way I have the CIS (Ist year) so I too will avoid pumping out the fuel from the pump end and use the sending unit opening for a 12 volt transfer pump so I can better control any splash. It might be a good time to replace some hoses as well.

Appreciate the input. Group Hug.

Thanks
B
'73T