This etch primer is thinners based.
Will do a test with 2k over the top, but it should be alright. Haven't had any issues using 2k over the top of the water-based rust converter.
But thanks for the warning. Much better to take the time to do a few tests panels and leave them while I get the rest of the work done.

The NS4 is the Rust-Proof Paint or some such. Water-based.
Routine was to spray in thinned rust converter, then cover with rustproof paint. Both water-based and both have hardened up nicely. I'll leave them as they are, with a Wurth wax coating over them.

What I am trying to do is use the rust-coverter / rust-proof paint, etch / topcoat in areas where I can't get back to with 2k primer. Transmission tunnel, torque tube, inner sill cavities etc. A petrol sprayer works well.

The rest of the car is 2k, so I'll stick with 2k primer and topcoat routine.
I'm using LUXOR brand. Have had no issues so far with the two coats of high build 2k primer I've put on the car.

Their system is pretty simple, compared to BASF et al.

Being thinners based is a good start, though my motto these day is "Trust but always check!". I have used Luxor brand in the past and can commend their high fill primer for being probably the most "sandable" primer out there - it is a pleasure to work with.

"Trust but always check!"
Advice for life.
Particularly Porsches.

Particularly useful when confronted with other statements like:
"The engine was rebuilt recently"
"The gearbox was rebuilt earlier this year"
"The car is perfect, not a cent to be spent"
"This car is rust free!"

Re: Luxor, sanding the primer is a joy. I have managed to get some sections to a really nice shine with 1500.

Been out of action for a month. That annoying thing called work!
After spending many hours test fitting and fettling the fabricated patches and 964 outer sill I took the plunge and started welding everything closed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068688.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068352.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068311.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068328.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068379.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068402.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068427.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068445.jpg

Some cleaning up and burn-throughs to remedy.
Toying with the idea of using lead to smooth out the joins...unfortunately the stitching between patch and lower fender leaves a few millimetres to fill.
Overall not a bad job for a beginner. Thank goodness for the hours and hours spent pouring over the step by step posts of Fishcop etc.

Cleaned-up the welds and started the long process of filling and sanding.
Lots of learnings in this section.
13 pieces in all, from inner rocker to the jacking reinforcement plate to kidney and outer sill.
Would loved to have used lead but that's a bridge too far.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413792820.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413792846.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413792868.jpg

And now the filler.
Been a while since I used filler....lost 2 batches between the work bench and the car....a bit less activator!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413792949.jpg

"Thin layers are easier to sand"....forgotten wisdom from my old Bosun.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413792986.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413793052.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413793085.jpg

2nd go was much better, starting to make progress. Really great feeling when your fingers find no imperfections....only a few hundred hours to go!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413793192.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413793274.jpg

And then there is always one bit you forgot....I thought I could just fill this and move on, but considering the effort I'm going to not cutting this out would be cheating.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413793377.jpg

A little more progress.
Cut out the dodgy repairs and fashioned a patch.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742110.jpg

As with most of the old repair work that was done on the car, the rotten steel was left in place and the new steel braised over the top....and then covered with a layer or two of Fibreglass.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742190.jpg

My highly sophisticated bending machine is really proving it's substantial set-up cost :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742265.jpg

And the 1 inch round bar welded on one end helps with getting a gentle profile.

Starting to learn that the welding is actually the easy bit - like woodwork and painting, the magic is all in the preparation and the fit! Or as they say in the film business: the more time you spend in pre-production, the less time you spend in post!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742310.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742332.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742446.jpg

And grind (still for me the trickiest bit)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742492.jpg

And fill...and sand.....

Hope to have the rhd side all filled and sanded and primed in the next few days.
I look at this side as my school fees, so that i can tackle the next major fix....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742721.jpg

Wish I had a factory template to make sure the rear window fits once I have welded everything up!

wow, a remarkable journey you are on. Keep the faith man!

Thanks for that.
There's no turning back now!

The RHD door repair.
I suspect I may have turned a simple job into rather complicated one....

Decided the best approach was to avoid butt welding on the outer door skin and rather use a brace so I can lap weld the repair patch. The door is pretty tired so I'd like to use the minimum of filler.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415269997.jpg

This is the plan (sketched on the door)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415269053.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415268743.jpg

The outer skin patch was pretty straight forward. But the lower piece was a little more complicated. My idea was to try and fashion one piece - only hand tools and a DIY anvil / buck made of scrap steel.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415268884.jpg

Getting the step into the steel (without a flanging tool) involves much hammering of fingers and thumbs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415270045.jpg

A bit of a cheat was to lap weld the bottom edges, with plug welds, rather than try and butt weld the whole thing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415270159.jpg

Then trimmed the excess edge to mate up with a fold I put into the outer skin patch - to replicate the original pinched seam.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415270232.jpg

Then pinched the seam with the anvil and a wooden block.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415270361.jpg

Bottom looks okay.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415270418.jpg

Will be welding for a while - with long pauses between welds - beginning to learn how important heat management is "weld away from the corners"...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415270549.jpg

The welding is okay. The grinding is a pain in the engine....I find I really have to concentrate, which as my school career will attest, is not easy for me!

6 hours with no kids and admin to get to this point. So probably the same again to get the door filled and sanded, ready for primer. Worried about the interior of the door. At this rate I'd like to finish the welding and send the bugger to be acid dipped to take care of the rust that is inevitably hiding in all the nooks and crannies.

Creative work record, good ideas, courageous work. I like that !!

Thanks. Very kind. :)
Although I think I have more courage than intelligence.
Am certainly learning a lot: like most things in life it's all about preparation and patience.

Next job.
Time to strategise this beast.
The rear parcel shelf and window corners.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415356197.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415356228.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415356259.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415356308.jpg

I'd like to try and save as much of the original shelf as possible - the pressing is rather handsome and I'd like to have the option of keeping it bare when the car is done (with the sound deadening on the engine bay side.

The plan is to use pieces from a 71 targa that didn't make it.
The structure is markedly different from the equivalent coupe, I guess in an attempt to stiffen the rear end a little.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415356747.jpg

Discovered that the pressing of the smuggler's box lid is the same as the SWB parcel shelf! But unfortunately I have only one spare box lid.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415356864.jpg

Strategy is to use the corners of the Targa shelf. I'll try and overlap the patch by 10 mm under the edge of the original parcel shelf and plug weld for strength before lap welding the seam.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415357033.jpg

The added issue will be to make sure the geometry of the rear window is correct. To be honest, the RD replacement window patches are not as accurate as I would like: no rain channel on the outer side and the flanges look a little gentle (where they are pinched into the seam)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415357352.jpg

Splicing into the seam worries me. There really is no room for error from an aesthetic pov.

Barnes. You my friend have got some serious balls and stamina. You must have a happy wife.

I almost spat my coffee across my deskhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif
God that's funny.

She might be a little happier if I lavished my stamina and balls on her...so to speak....rather than on a rusty flat beetle in the garage!

Being decidedly anti-establishment and suspicious of authority all my life, even when the voices in my head tell me I'm mad, I consider it my duty to prove them wrong. I think they call that being stupidly stubborn. Although my wife has a four-letter word for it.

What progress on the 912, Barry Nel engine and 914?

Quick update.
The door. The bloody door.

My welding has improved as my patience has improved.

Welding sheet metal (old grumpy, messed with steel) is directly proportional to one's patience. Heat is the enemy. And 'wanting to just make some progress' is not an ally.
More reason to learn to TIG weld, or even better: gas weld and avoid grinding.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873000.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873037.jpg

I loathe grinding. But I am getting better at it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873361.jpg

And then you discover little bits that cannot be overlooked. That have to be cut out.
The downside of doing all the work yourself is that you where all the skeletons are.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873476.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873511.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873576.jpg

In hindsight I should have replaced this with one continuous patch.
School fees.
The rains have arrived so everything is starting to flash rust.
More reasons to get a move on and get things shiny and covered with epoxy primer.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873671.jpg

Looks nice! Though the MIG beads are a pain to grind, gas welding that would not have left you with a great result either as the amount if heat would have caused terrible warpage. TIG is the way to go!

Something you might enjoy at this point:

I have a friend who's motto is that your welding skills are inversly proporsional to your grinding skills...

Wow! That is an amazing amount of good work you are doing there! Cannot wait to see the end product!

BTW Matthew, I see there has been 11500 odd views of your thread - not bad going!

Yeah. Tig is the next step.
Your mate is absolutely right about the welding / grinding formula!

You and me both!
I can't wait to get the body done and primed. Will be a major milestone.