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Help w/Backdating the SC Heating System
I'm having a pretty common problem with the heating system in my '79 SC. In the winter, no enough heat is being generated to warm the interior.
The car came equipped with the automatic heat control unit, and has only 1 red lever controlled by the temp control box that opens & closes the heater boxes. Rather than spend the time trying to get this questionable system working correctly, I think I'd like to convert to the older manual system. I haven't been able to pull up any threads with the specific parts & proceedure to backdate the heating system. Can someone please help me out & post the threads I need to read?
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Forest Green 79 Euro SC JE Hi-Compression, SSI/Dansk Dual SS Webcaminc 21/20 RUF Yellowbird kit C2 Factory rockers 930 Factory Tail & decklid 930 Steering wheel 17" Kinesis Supercups, Bilsteins, SS Brakelines Turbo Tierods Alpine/MB Quart/(2)JL Audio 10" 
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07-20-2002, 03:19 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Sherwood, Oregon
Posts: 2,119
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Chris..........that was the first thing I did when I bought my 77 Carrera 3.0. Basically I bought another e-brake with dual levers. The rubber boot. And away I went.
I changed the wires while I was at it. But probably didn't need to.
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Cary 77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59 73 914S 2.0 AG 73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration ) 74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor |
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07-20-2002, 03:56 AM
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Thanks, but....
I thought there was more to it than that. I've found some threads where other owners have removed the engine compartment blower. Am I confused here?
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Forest Green 79 Euro SC JE Hi-Compression, SSI/Dansk Dual SS Webcaminc 21/20 RUF Yellowbird kit C2 Factory rockers 930 Factory Tail & decklid 930 Steering wheel 17" Kinesis Supercups, Bilsteins, SS Brakelines Turbo Tierods Alpine/MB Quart/(2)JL Audio 10"
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07-20-2002, 04:25 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Sherwood, Oregon
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You can if you want. But the back dated e-brake will have the blower switch. That's your choice. If it's only a warm weather / summer car I would. Engine compartment looks much better with it out of there.
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Cary 77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59 73 914S 2.0 AG 73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration ) 74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor |
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07-20-2002, 06:22 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
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I have an '80 euro with the same single lever, automatic heating system as you. I never could get the heater blower in the rear to activate, so I removed it. I found a guy parting out an early engine, and bought the left and right side heated-air ducts. The right side duct replaces the block-off plate with no problem. The left side was a little tougher. I had to cut a section out of the older style duct so it would clear the distributor. A new section of heater hose completed the job. Now the engine bay is cleaner, and the heat works much better !
Rob 1980SC Last edited by 1980SC; 07-20-2002 at 07:19 AM.. |
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07-20-2002, 07:17 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Chester, VA
Posts: 3
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You can convert the automatic heating control setup to a manual control setup without having to buy a replacement handbrake mechanism. Removing and reinstalling the handbrake lever is WAY more work than you have to do to achieve a functional manual heating lever. In doing what I suggest, you will keep the auto control unit in place, but it will not be functional -- it will just be there covering the holes in the carpet, etc.
The red lever in the auto control unit is mounted on the same bolt that the handbrake lever uses. Find the parts diagram for the handbrake lever that has a manual lever arrangement, and you will see the bolt and the various washers and friction wafers that separate the handbrake lever and the heating levers. You will need a new bolt (the one you will need is the one with a flat side on it) plus several of the friction wafers. Cost will be a few dollars (less than $10). Assemble with the new bolt and the washers in the correct order. Disconnect the red heating lever from the auto control unit. When you finish this, the red heating lever will be movable and will stay in position where you leave it instead of returning to the down position. |
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07-20-2002, 06:14 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Anchorage, Alaska, USA
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Chris,
I think the topic you are refering can be found in the Rennlist archives. Unfortunately, I do not believe this will be the answer to your problem. The article deals with back dating the fresh air source which results in the removal of the large electrical fan in your engine compartment. I have back dated my fresh air source and it resembles the heating system found in the early VW's. The 11-blade fan is responsible for forcing air up to the cabin which has minal impact as far as a heat delivery system. Hang in there and someone on the bb will get you going in the right direction. Clinton R Hodges II Anchorage, AK PCA/Rennlist member |
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07-20-2002, 07:29 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
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Just a minor rant here. IMHO, the heater blower motor in the engine compartment never looked like a properly engineered component from the boys at Porsche what with all the crusheable air hoses criss crossing across the engine. If they wanted to improve air flow ( esp. for the price of this sucker) they could have inserted some inline blowers in the the heating ducts (under the car), deleted blower motors in the cabin and kept the old ductwork to keep the engine compartment nice and tidy. I give you all my blessings to backdate to the early heating system.
There, I feel better. Sherwood Lee http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars |
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07-20-2002, 09:55 PM
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1979 Porsche Euro SC 3.0 L
