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Epster77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
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1st Valve Adjustment---wish me luck!

I am attempting my first valve adjustment this Thursday on my 87 Cab. I plan on replacing my fuel filter at the same time. Does anyone have any additonal input as to what other maintenance I should perform at the time of the valve adjustment. I did a tune-up about 6,000 miles ago. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Also, I have purchased the valve vover gasket set with the green silicone bead. My question is this, do I need to still use gasket sealer or not?

I would like to say thank you in advance for everyone's informative posts about completing the valve adjustment. After reading about everyone's previous experience with this procedure, I have the confidence to perform this task on my own to save a few hundred dollars.I would also say that us pelicanheads are very lucky to have the tech article section of this website to our disposal. Thanks Wayne

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87 911 Cab
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Old 07-22-2002, 05:24 PM
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Best of luck Jimmy. If it works for you I'll try it my self in a few weeks (valve clearance virgin also). No gasket sealer stuff required. Just your normal gasket set and the new nuts that came with it. Bill '79SC
Old 07-22-2002, 05:27 PM
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loads of threads on this if you search and one recent one.

i'd chnage the oil/filter at the same time, let it drain out over the night before, including removing bottom covers. then you'll have no messy drips to work with!
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'86 coupe

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Old 07-23-2002, 12:11 AM
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I haven't got enough confidence (yet) to do my first one, so I'll be getting my mechanic to do mine (while I watch).

Good luck and keep us updated!

Cheers,

Tim.
____________
1983 SC Targa
Old 07-23-2002, 12:35 AM
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Start with a right-hand exhaust valve. You can see what you're doing on those. Then once you get the 'feel', move to the ones you can't see.

Chris.
Old 07-23-2002, 01:23 AM
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I just did my first one, albeit while I had the engine out. So it was much easier. Even so, I think you'll have to remove your cat to get at the lower left cover. Get the feeler tool from Island. Marcesq did this with me and he actually has two such tools - one with .005 stock and one with .004 stock. By double checking your work with the .005 gauge, you're sure to not leave your valves too loose. I printed the date and mileage on a sticky label and put it on my new fuel filter and then put a large piece of scotch packing tape over it. You need to keep track of the mileage and age of the filter.
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Old 07-23-2002, 04:59 AM
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Epster..........
I am doing mine in a few weeks as well..........Alpharetta area.

It helps to drain the oil the night before when the engine is still warm. Drain it even over night through the oil sump drain. You'll get a 1/2 cup or so of residual but expect more drips when you take the lower valve covers off. Engine has to be stoned cold for the valve adjustment. Be sure to have plenty of feeler blades as they will break on you while bending and working into the gap.

...following the PP technical notes and Waynes 101 Projects makes it easy. I enlarged the photos on my copier at work for better clarity. That helped.

TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!!!!!!
Go over it twice maybe even three times to make sure you got the gap set right on all valves. PATIENCE is the key to success.

Its a great feeling when the engine starts and all is nice and quieter and just right. You'll enjoy the experience.

Regards
Bob
73.5T
Old 07-23-2002, 07:40 AM
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valve adjustment

I did my first one two weeks ago. Actually, it was very easy considering what they would charge you at the mechanic shop. Just make sure you don't over tighten the valve. I had to go back to cylinder 4,5,6. Lost all power from that side the first time. I did it with a screwdriver and over tighten the valve on that side. I felt that using your finger to tighten the adjustment screw(?) onto the feeler gauge, then slide the feeler gauge back and forth until you get that firm sliding feel. I also jiggle the rocker arm with the feeler gauge in the gap. It should not jiggle at all. that way you know, you are not to loose. Do the rest of you guys agree? The rest of the process has been described elsewhere. Now my car runs great. I finally able to adjust the weber carb. No more misses, actually very little misses. Don't be afraid to do it. Just follow Wayne's book or the tech article. Trust me, I am a newbie to P-car and basically, know nothing about fixing car, any car. I have to say, thanks to this BBS, I have learn how to adjust weber carb, adjust valve, check the timing. Now onto engine rebuild(?). Next, MSD and optical vs. electronic ignition.

John
72T with Webers
Old 07-23-2002, 09:33 AM
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buy a few extra feeler guages and use medium loctite on the feeler guage holder screws. if it is your first you will most likely break 2 or even 3 (like me). good luck.
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Old 07-23-2002, 12:29 PM
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If you get the Island tool and use stainless steel stock, the feeler blades will not break at all.
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Old 07-23-2002, 12:41 PM
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richard,

Where might one find this tool? Pelican?
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1978 911 SC Non-Sunroof Coupe, two tone Primer Black and SWEPCO Blue, Currently serving as a Track Whore
1981 911 SC Sunroof Coupe, Pacific Blue Project, Future Daily Driver
Old 07-23-2002, 12:47 PM
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Here ya go:

That Cool Valve Adjustment tool - New Source

Buy two of them. Put .004 stock in one and .005 in the other. That way you can double check as you go and not have to switch gauges. Hell, for the money you save by doing it yourself, $40 for two fo these things pays for itself in less than an hour.
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Old 07-23-2002, 12:55 PM
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Yeah - I'll vouch for Wayne's book again. Here's my own little commercial promo shot of the book in action:

Engine drop . . . day one
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Old 07-23-2002, 01:17 PM
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Thanks for everbodies insight,,,,,I am actually looking forward to performing this task. I have researched many posts from previous experiences and printed out the tech article. If my parts come in on time, I should complete this on thursday and i will let everyone know how it went.

Thanks!!

Sunroof ,,,,I grew up in Alpharetta and now live in East Cobb,,,Glad to know a fellow pelicanhead is so close..
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87 911 Cab
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Old 07-23-2002, 05:06 PM
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Jimmy...
By chance are you a school teacher, your cab is red and your off Sewell Mill?


Bob
Sepia Brown - 73.5T
Old 07-24-2002, 05:41 AM
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Bob I am a teacher of sorts,,,,I teach a bunch of hulligans how to sell vehicles,,,,unfortunately, we're not selling Porsches.

Richard I think you are right about me having to remove my cat -- but I'm curious, does anyone know of a shortcut where I don't have to? All of my bolts are rusted and I only have tomorrow to complete the project at hand.
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87 911 Cab
www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Epster
Old 07-24-2002, 06:36 PM
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Get your torch and your Dremel tool and have at it. I spent the better part of a day getting those rusted bolts off and that was with the engine out and on a pallet. It SUCKED! Now's a good time to get new stainless bolts, anti-seize goop and some new gaskets. Don't do this stuff in a hurry - especially the first time. Sorry dude.

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Old 07-24-2002, 06:40 PM
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