Critical Safety Issues when buying a 911

[RWebb]

1. Check the date code on the tires - if older than 6 years, they MUST be replaced ASAP no matter how much tread is left on them
See: How Old Are your Tyres?

2. review the maintenance records on the car to see how old the rubber brake hoses ("lines") are - if they are ~~ 10 years old, or older, or if the age is unknown, then replace them with new rubber hoses; flush & change the brake fluid with a quality brand at this time


3. see if the rubber fuel hoses have been replaced, and replace if more than a few years old - use a ethanol rated rubber hose (J30R9 is the SAE spec. for at least some FI systems and carbs) - for a 1984-87 car there is a critical fuel line that fails also

- don't forget the hose under the car that connects the tank to the lines in the tunnel; and those lines in the tunnel may need to replaced too, depending on what material was used for your model year

4. find that dangerously unfused wire under the dash and add an inline fuse for it - inspect the wires and dress the wires carefully to keep them from getting hung up on anything (like the heat control levers)
- here is a recent thread on this, tho it is not the best one:
Fire under dash!



"Use the SEARCH, Luke" to find more threads on all the above issues -- most have many threads already; do others a favor by linking to the best thread for each numbered item above here

...and remember, the life you save might be mine... (to quote a certain 550 owner)

[RWebb]

replace ball joints at 100k

New ball joints & tie rods- thought it was just preventative but is noticeable!

[tazzieman]

Brakes are somewhat critical! Thin+/- cracked rotors , seized pistons , old fluid. Fix the stopping and steering issues , then worry about the speed.

[JAR0023]

Check for fuses on the condenser blower motor and the footwell blowers. My '86 was unfused on each of these. Condenser blower motor was melted solid. Luckily no fire. Now that it's cooling off I need to go ahead and fuse the footwell blowers.

Fire - and the front condenser blower

J

ETA the link

[BMWTom]

Rwebb. I just replaced the rubber fuel lines to the gas tank. I'm assuming that any fuel line purchased at an auto parts store is resistant to ethanol. Is this a correct assumption?

[porsche930dude]

What about the fire extinguisher ?

[fanaudical]

Check all CIS lines and components in the engine bay and verify that nothing is spraying a fine yet barely detectable mist of gasoline.

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by BMWTom

[is] any fuel line purchased at an auto parts store resistant to ethanol?

no - it needs to be rated for ethanol

J30R9 is an SAE spec. for EtOH and FI level pressures

[j911brick]

Originally Posted by RWebb

1. Check the date code on the tires - if older than 6 years, they MUST be replaced ASAP no matter how much tread is left on them

I say (and experience has taught me) 4 years on the tires, for any car.

[manbridge 74]

While not quite critical, check adjustment on brake light switch down at the pedal. Mine would not light up on a light application of brakes, only when really pressed. LED bulbs are reputed to light up a few milliseconds faster giving those behind more time to stop, but I have not tried them.

[gamin]

Absolutely carry a fire extinguisher. I carry 2 after a fuel line failure in the 3.2. Luckily no fire. Maybe not directly safety related, but the "S" oil hose should be checked. If it is soft and sags it must be replaced, not with aftermarket.

[Peter Zimmermann]

From Tire Rack:

There are many reasons why tires should be replaced. Here are some Tire Rack recommendations based on currently available information:

The vehicle manufacturer owner's manual may have specific instructions covering tire inspections and replacement considerations based on the vehicle manufacturer's understanding of the specific vehicle application. Drivers should use their vehicle owner's manual to confirm any tire inspection or replacement recommendations.

Tires should be replaced when their remaining tread depth is no longer appropriate for the weather conditions expected to be encountered. Tire Rack recommends replacing tires at approximately 6/32" of remaining tread depth for driving in snow, 4/32" for driving on wet roads and 2/32" for driving on dry roads.

Most small cuts and punctures in the tread area (up to 1/4"in size) can be repaired by trained personnel using industry-approved methods. These tires can be returned to service if they have not been driven on while flat or with very low inflation pressure.

Tires cut or punctured in the shoulder or sidewall areas, as well as any tires driven on while flat or with very low inflation pressure even for short periods of time are often damaged beyond repair and should be replaced. Driving on a tire while flat or with very low inflation pressure will permanently weaken the tire's internal structure, rendering it more susceptible to catastrophic failure.

Tires that exhibit any bubbles, blisters or bulges, or have large cuts, cracks or other significant damage from road hazards in the tread, shoulder and/or sidewall areas should be replaced. Only inspecting the tire's innerliner after dismounting the tire from the wheel will reveal the probable cause and help determine if the tire manufacturer's workmanship and materials warranty applies.

Most tires will need to be replaced for other reasons before any prescribed calendar age, therefore the following recommended calendar age removal periods in no way reduces the driver's responsibility to replace worn or damaged tires as needed.

Tires that have been in use for five (5) years or more should be carefully inspected periodically for external signs of aging. While this inspection will confirm the condition of the exterior rubber, it cannot assess internal degradation or damage.

Previously unused, never-mounted tires should not be put into service if they are more than six (6) years old even if they were properly stored.

All tires (including spare tires) manufactured more than ten (10) years previously should be removed from service and be replaced as a precaution, even if such tires appear serviceable and have not reached the legal wear limit.



Although garage queens have a bit of UV protection, and regularly are soaked with Armor All, I've always agreed with Tire Rack/RWebb regarding useful life. Start looking closely at 5 years, replace at 6 - in most cases.

I would like to make an additional comment regarding the OP. Brake hoses should be replaced every 10 years, OR every 100K miles, whichever comes first.

My garage queen's $$$ Bridgestone tires have only three thousand miles, but are well past their 6 year age limit. They have no visible degradation. What to do...what to do? And my brake hoses are 8 years old...

[Decolliber]

Corrosion and/or weakness in front suspension pan.

[RWebb]

ok, so we have 4, 5, or 6 years max on the tires - no matter what the mileage

[Marc Bixen]

Always check the loose nut behind the wheel!!!!!!!!!

[RWebb]

AFTER you have completed the critical safety items above, you can start in on:

Long term & Commonly Neglected Maintenance

[kodioneill]

R Webb 34,690 posts wow.

[roblav]

I've had three Porsche fires. One of them self inflicted while welding though. To me, fire prevention is the biggest safety issue.

[fanaudical]

Brakes again - Verify integrity of the bent hard lines. (I'm rebuilding the brakes on mine and have found two with significant corrosion and thin-wall spots.)

[inaminit]

More on brakes-check the condition of the flex lines at each wheel-usually there is a dated ring on the hose. On my 76-they read..76. New ones on the way.