Bright Idea Needed - Screwed up Trunk Lifts

[Kaliv]

For some odd reason my minor fixes keep turning into major problems. The pressure lifts for my trunk weren't doing thier job, so I thought I would put in new ones. Seeing how my car had a whale tail installed on it, I decided to get the heavy duty ones. Ordered two as my car had two wimpy ones already installed.

I installed one thinking one might just do the trick, but it didn't. So I go to install the second one and though...hmm, they should be on opposite sides. The PO had both pressure lifts on the same side. So I look on the other side and noticed that there was no bracket to connect it to...obviously that's why the PO put them on the same side. So I install the other one on right next to the previous one I installed and that did the trick.

Insert problem. I shut the engine lid. Noticed some wrong right away. The lid closed but didn't line up quite right. Too much pressure on the left side pushing it out a bit. So I pull the level to open the lid and it springs unlatched, but not up. The lid is getting stuck and I can't lift it up. I think it's due to the lid being out of alignment. With all the pressure on the left side, I can't push it into place...and with a whale tail in the way, I have to be careful where I push for fear or cracking the tail.

I could sure use some ideas on how to get the lid back open.

[RSBob]

Welcome to the land of the shady tree mechanic. Cost effective, yet at times dangerous. You might want to try grasping the hood with it unlatched and moving in the opposite direction of the way it is bowing. Try anything you can to get rid of the tension or working away from it. The next step is more drastic. Good luck.

[deshetlr]

If your car was a model that was able to be ordered with a wing it will have a triangular bracket welded to the firewall on the passenger side. However if the car came without the optional wing the hinge on the passenger side will be missing a place to secure the strut.

The after market offers the dual strut you have on the driver side to compensate for the wing's weight but you are experiencing the side effects, uneven stress load.

Our host offers the bracket needed to modify the passenger side hinge. it will need to be welded or riveted on. Remove the dual after market setup and place a single strut on both sides of the engine cover. Tweek the cover if necessary and you have it done the way the factory intended.

[Kaliv]

Yep, mine came without the optional wing...and so I don't have the hinge on the passenger side. It's there against the firewall, but not on the hinge.

Been trying everything I can think of to offset the tension. There is a slight gap on the side that I can peek into to see the screws holding the lid to the hinge, but my allen wrench isn't long enough...and if it was, I think it would need to be curved a bit.

Hmm...

[deshetlr]

Here is the parts number for the bracket:
OEM-93051203900

My '86 is in the shop being converted as we speak. I am a big fan of "as the factory intended" but I have seen several threads with home fabricated solutions. In all cases they are superior to the tandem strut.

[herr_oberst]

I wonder if using one of the old, soft lifts in conjunction with the new one will relieve the tension enough to help?

Just a thought.

[JP911]

There's an aftermarket prop for sale on Pelican (or you can make your own) that will eliminate the need for the struts.

[TerryH]

I think your biggest issue is putting the whale tail on the trunk. It's going to cut down on your vision quite a bit.

[snbush67]

Originally posted by TerryH
I think your biggest issue is putting the whale tail on the trunk. It's going to cut down on your vision quite a bit.

Hammerhead look ?

[rnln]

I had the same problem years ago, not because of the shock. After several days hassling with it, I finally asked my wife to pull and hold the lever to the max while I hassle with the lid/tail and finally it pop.
Good luck.

[Dixie]

Here is the parts number for the bracket: OEM-93051203900

The bracket (OEM-93051203900) is $44.48.
The hinge for a turbo (OEM-93051203600)is $75.43.
The hinge for a Carrera (OEM-90151203620)is $36.57.

So what's different about the Turbo hinge? Does it have the bracket already welded to it? If so, it might be easier to buy the turbo hinge.

And does 'GRV' behind the part number denote which side the hinge is for?

[Wil Ferch]

GRV is a code for OEM galvanized steel and/or primered condition...

- Wil

[Kaliv]

Still at it. Tried to make myself a tool, but for some reason I can't get the allen wrench to fit in the screw. A long allen wrench might fit, but the curved angle would have to be really shallow...ones I bought from the store at too long after the angle to fit in the gap.

So, pushing doesn't work. Can't unscrew the lid from the hinge. What would you try next, minimizing the damage?

[Kaliv]

Thought pictures might help.

[Kaliv]

Bought a metal drill bit, but can't quite get a good start to drill off the head of the screw holding the lid to the hinge - keeps sliding off. Also bought chisel to see if I could knock the head of the screw off, but again cana't get the right angle - not enough gap to get it in the right place.

Anyway, was thinking about how the lid is held down. I'm assuming the only mechanism holding the lid in place is that spring loaded thing in the middle. But it that's the case, I would think that both side of the lid would come up a bit. However, only the driver's side moves while the passenger side is solid.

Question: How is the lid secured and when you pull the lever, what's happening to release the lid?

[ipapilot]

I think you need to enlist the help of a few friends before you do any cutting/drilling/chiseling. Have one keep the release wire pulled (or secure it released with pliers) and then have someone help you line the tail up better to get it to unstick itself. As you know, make sure they doing most of the pushing on the metal...
You are correct about the release. It actuates the cable which pulls opens up a small 'notch' on the release mechanism. I've got a fiberglass tail I fought with for hours on it's initial installation because it got stuck...

[shbop]

Originally posted by JP911
There's an aftermarket prop for sale on Pelican (or you can make your own) that will eliminate the need for the struts.

+1 Best solution I've found. Simple, effective, and best of all, no more struts to replace.

[EarlyPorsche]

This just happened to me too.

Get the lid to pop up as a much as possible by having your friend pull the latch while you jiggle the lid (you won't hurt it, just try and jiggle) once it pops up a little you need to get in there with a open end wrench thats will fit between the plunger spring and push the plunger over and it will pop.

[Mitch Leland]

I think "Early Porsche" has it right. All the mods, add ons won't help if you can't get the lid unlatch. Maybe try and get the trunk lid align across the bottom of the lid so the plunger is near vertical, then push back down on the lid to relieve the tension on the catch, then get a second person to pull the latch, possibly it will release. Hopefully once the plunger is released from the female latch you'll be able to over power the gas support shocks.

I know how frustrating this must be, good luck...

[Kaliv]

Ok, quick update. Got a wrench on the lever. A friend and I pushed and pulled and everything and finally got it to pop up. Friend went home and I pulled the shocks off. Put the lid back down thinking it was fixed, and it got stuck again. So, a few more days went by until my friend could spare time to come back over and we wrestled it back up. Noticed that the holes are actually oblong that hold the hinge to the lid, so I loosened them up and aligned the lid back up the way it should be. This was probably the popped noise I heard. The lid actually moving in the oblong holes to come out of alignment.

Anyway, the lid is now aligned and works. I have no shocks and probably will not reinstall them. I may in the future get that aftermarket prop.

New issue though. The driver's side of the lid is a bit too high still. When the lid is all the way down, I can still peer through the edge and see the engine. I think, although I am not positive, that the metal where the hinge is welded (well, not welded but, perhaps rivetted is what it is) has been pushed up a bit. So, I went inside and took off the back cover that has the speakers on it and was thinking of perhap hammering the metal down a bit. Does that sound stupid? Or what would you recommend?