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-   -   CIS Troubleshooting for Dummies (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/758788-cis-troubleshooting-dummies.html)

SkiVT 07-22-2017 02:06 AM

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1500717964.jpg

RarlyL8 07-22-2017 07:28 AM

There is no need to collect the charts, just get a Porsche repair manual. All the charts are there plus factory troubleshooting and repair procedures.

RarlyL8 07-22-2017 09:58 AM

These charts are copyright protected by Porsche, rather surprised that Pelican allows them to be posted. May as well just post the entire repair manual and be done with it.

pmax 07-30-2017 08:26 AM

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1192844740.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1499620635.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/962708-drivability-issues-77-cis.html#post9655619
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/372891-need-control-pressure-chart-76-911s.html#post3541867

Another chart

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508167195.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/973784-wtb-930-warm-up-regulator-2.html

Michael1234 08-01-2017 07:26 AM

Hi Tim,

thanks for your fantastic description.

I´ve a 911 SC 3,0l, 1982, Euro and had some trouble. If the engine was warm it stoped immediately - no idle. I´ve done the tests and think I find the problem.

My AAR looks closed, but if I pluged the lines of the AAR my idle is perfect.
This seems slightly against the characteristic symptome -what do you think?

Best regards

Michael

Michael1234 08-03-2017 03:36 AM

I removed the AAR and test it. The restistence was 33 Ohm and it was closed after 6 min.
It was total closed but if I blowed in it was not airtight.

After build into the car the same problem and if I pluged the lines the car runs fine.

What is the different? Must it be airtight?

tirwin 08-03-2017 02:37 PM

Michael,

Sorry I have been slow to respond. I've been traveling on business. My advice would be to start a new thread here with all the details. My gut reaction is that there is too little to go on from your initial description and we could guess at a lot of things, but we would just be guessing. The starting point is going to be fuel pressures and very thoroughly checking for vacuum leaks.

Michael1234 08-04-2017 02:50 AM

Hi Tom,

thanks for your Response.

Here the things I´ve done before:

Problem: begins after winter brake. In warm condition no idle. Engine stops immediately.

- CO / mixture was right before
- System pressure: 4,8 bar
- Cold control pressure: 21 °C, 1,0 bar
- Warm Control pressure: 3,6 bar

- Changing vacuum lines (because really old)
- air leaks (only sight test, if open oil tank - idle falls down)
- Thermo valve: cold closed, after power open
- WUR (-089): 33 Ohm, after opening clean filter, every thing fine

- AAR (0280140201): 33 Ohm, cold open - power after 6 min closed complete, but not airtight.

If I closed the lines to AAR the idle (warm condition) is perfect.
This could means there is a bad scource (circle of AAR) for additional air or the fuel mixture is so lean that minimal air disable the idle.

My question:
Why is the idle perfect after closing lines to AAR (AAR is closed, so only minimal air comes out. Is the idle for air so sensible)?
Could it be the AAV (not checked because ist nearly behind the engine)?
Which part affected the idle in terms of the fuel mixture?

Thanks in advance.

Vereeken 08-04-2017 05:51 AM

These numbers look good Michael. You do not say what the CO setting is.

If the AAR closes in about 6-10 minutes it is fine. I have tested a couple and none is 100% airtight after closing...

WUR is OK correct for your car and OHM is spot on.
Warm control is perfect.

You did not give us System pressure.

Aside from tracking air leaks please check the routing of the small diameter hoses.
99% of the information on the Web is incorrect for a 82 SC with a 089 WUR.

If I have to venture a guess maybe someone swapped the 2 small vac hoses to the WUR. You can install them in 4 different manners , one of them will cause the engine to stall when warm if the co was set with the vac line incorrectly attached.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1501854620.jpg

Michael1234 08-04-2017 06:51 AM

Thanks.

The system pressure is 4,8 bar (see above).
I find your picture before in your thread and checked them. All lines are OK on my car.

Vereeken 08-04-2017 08:49 AM

Damn that sucks...

System pressure is a littel low but within spec.

So my best guess now is that the AAR does not fully close but that should give you high idle not "No idle."

The AAV can also play a role but the symptom is usually a high idle.

brentrussell 08-05-2017 10:50 PM

My Vacuum test pump... a aquatic tank pump, reckon its around 2-3 PSI, worked great and cost approx $15 USD.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1502002179.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1502002194.jpg

Vereeken 08-09-2017 07:22 AM

Someone asked for a good graph of the notorius 089 ROW WUR.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1502292109.jpg

boyt911sc 08-09-2017 11:50 AM

WUR-089 cold control fuel chart........
 
Michel,

Thanks for posting. My copy is same as yours except it is faded and not easy to read. Now, I have a good photo copy of the WUR-089 cold control fuel chart.

Tony

angelny911 08-10-2017 08:33 PM

Interesting page thanks to all.

pmax 08-10-2017 09:26 PM

Adjustable WUR

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/218814-made-adjustable-wur-step-step-got-pics.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/565010-how-hard-hit-wur-cold-pressure-adjustment-pin.html

Michael1234 08-14-2017 07:42 AM

That´s a very nice idea, but my WUR works well.

Next week-end I will check my AAV and tell you more.

Michael1234 08-28-2017 06:03 AM

I didn´t checked my AAV until now. After a short look I see there is nearly no way to remove it without removing the complete k-jetronic. So I switched it to the winter break.

rwest 08-28-2017 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael1234 (Post 9717231)
I didn´t checked my AAV until now. After a short look I see there is nearly no way to remove it without removing the complete k-jetronic. So I switched it to the winter break.

You can also remove and just plug the lines to see if there is any change in how the car runs.

Charles Freeborn 08-30-2017 08:37 AM

Apologies in advance if this has been covered already -
Can a vacuum test @ distributor be a quick and dirty check for vacuum leaks, or is that in the wrong part of the chain to be valid? Also, what is the target vacuum at idle for an early CIS system? Mine is a '74 with a xxx xxx 004 FD and a xxx xxx 008 WUR.
Thanks!

pmax 11-12-2017 11:39 PM

Adjustable WUR - WCP and CCP

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/656419-building-adjustable-wur-need-starting-point.html#post6544423


Adjusting WUR using washers

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/812826-warmup-regulator-strange-issue-solved.html

Quote:

I also found some copper alloy springy door draft stop which was 0.0043" thick, and made a washer out of it to try to get the CP more into range. I didn't want to do the tapping the plug bit, as that seems a bit iffy, and a friend with actual Bosch training said you can only do that a couple of times before the plug gets loose.
WUR servicing links

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/987755-warm-up-regulator-dealer.html

Pop-off Valve aka toilet seat thread

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/976754-pop-off-not-pop-off-4.html

Smoke machine

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/991708-cis-advice-needed-experts-please-help.html#post10001114

Charles Freeborn 01-03-2018 01:23 PM

Does anyone know the correct impedance readings (cold and hot) for the 0 438 140 008 WUR?
I'm getting a cold reading of 56 ohms.
Thanks.

timmy2 01-03-2018 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charles Freeborn (Post 9871141)
Does anyone know the correct impedance readings (cold and hot) for the 0 438 140 008 WUR?
I'm getting a cold reading of 56 ohms.
Thanks.

PM Tony, boyt911sc, I’ll bet he knows.

Charles Freeborn 01-03-2018 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timmy2 (Post 9871213)
PM Tony, boyt911sc, I’ll bet he knows.

will do. thanks.

boyt911sc 01-03-2018 03:04 PM

Resistance (Ohms)........
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Charles Freeborn (Post 9871141)
Does anyone know the correct impedance readings (cold and hot) for the 0 438 140 008 WUR?
I'm getting a cold reading of 56 ohms.
Thanks.


Charles,

I don’t know the electrical impedance of 0-438-140-008, but the electrical resistance is 56 Ohms (+/-)1. The electrical heater in your WUR is good.

Tony

Charles Freeborn 01-03-2018 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boyt911sc (Post 9871250)
Charles,

I don’t know the electrical impedance of 0-438-140-008, but the electrical resistance is 56 Ohms (+/-)1. The electrical heater in your WUR is good.

Tony

Excellent. Many thanks.

Gretz 06-13-2018 07:52 AM

Getting prepared to do the pressure test within the next week. Reviewing the directions, it looks like I need to run the fuel pump during the cold and warm pressure tests. Won’t this cause a bunch of fuel to be injected into the cylinders? What’s the best way to clear out that accumulated fuel? Just start it up?

“The next test is the COLD CONTROL PRESSURE test. With the valve on the fuel pressure gauge in the OPEN position (and again with the ignition key in the ON position and the fuel pump running), record the fuel pressure and the ambient temp.”

Vereeken 06-13-2018 07:58 AM

No.
Unless.
a The fuel plunger is stuck in the FD in the upward position
b the air sensor plate sits too high in the throat of the FD
c the co screw is turned so far to the right that it dribbles fuel even when a and b are ok.

Only a can really bring alot of fuel in the chambers in a short time.

You will hear the injectors squeel if a b or c are the case.

Simply stop the FP and correct a b or c before continuing.

Gretz 06-13-2018 10:02 AM

Ah, I get it. I had a fundamental misunderstanding of the fuel system. So the injectors don’t function when the fuel pump is simply ON, the sensor plate has to be lifted as well? That makes total sense and I don’t know why I didn’t realize that sooner. Thanks.

pmax 07-15-2018 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gretz (Post 10071982)
Getting prepared to do the pressure test within the next week. Reviewing the directions, it looks like I need to run the fuel pump during the cold and warm pressure tests. Won’t this cause a bunch of fuel to be injected into the cylinders? What’s the best way to clear out that accumulated fuel? Just start it up?

“The next test is the COLD CONTROL PRESSURE test. With the valve on the fuel pressure gauge in the OPEN position (and again with the ignition key in the ON position and the fuel pump running), record the fuel pressure and the ambient temp.”

Do post the results here when you get to the bottom of your troubleshooting. It will add to the knowledge base of this valuable technical forum.

Links to the relevant threads.

090 WUR resistance measurements http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1000607-wur-wiring-connector.html#post10092455

Fuel pressure findings http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1001112-cis-experts-please-help-fuel-pressure-test-results.html

pmax 07-09-2019 11:06 PM

Return line checks

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1025675-occasional-cis-problem-2.html#post10513299

boyt911sc 07-14-2019 01:38 AM

Access to edit.........
 
Tim,

Maybe you could request from the moderator/s some help to get access to edit some of your old postings. I have not read this thread for a long time and had a chance to browse it yesterday. Just the first page alone, I found several critical misinformation or misconceptions that you have posted.

You are doing a great job updating the thread. I know you are a voracious reader and search a lot in the Internet. But you can not just use data or information you found in the Internet without further verification. People reading your posts will have a tendency to use and believe it is a fact. We all make mistakes and I commit a lot too.

When you mentioned this idea “CIS for dummies” to me many years ago, I was all in favor of it and even today. If you are not allowed to edit the old posts, maybe you should make an updated version with the “correct or edited” version. Just my two-cents.

Tony

Larmo63 12-07-2019 04:38 PM

I recently acquired a '78 SC with CIS and after reading this thread, my head is spinning. I wish someone would post simple pictures of each component. Maybe I should buy a book, but I don't know where to start. I know Weber carbs and low pressure systems. My car runs super good, but I pray it never breaks or starts running poorly. What is a "FD?"

I couldn't tell you the different between a WUR and/or an AAR if you gave me a billion dollars cash.

(I was encouraged to ask the dumb questions.)

Are you guys all automotive engineers with degrees from MIT?

boyt911sc 12-07-2019 05:46 PM

Acronyms.......
 
Lawrence,

These are the most common acronyms you will encounter in the CIS discussions in this forum. I copied these acronyms from an old post and pasted here for your perusal. Get some reference book or manual about the K-Jetronic (CIS). There is booklet I highly recommend issued by Bosch (Technical Instruction) and printed by Bentley.

This is the ISBN: 0-8376-0468-0.

Some CIS acronyms:

AAR (auxiliary air valve)
AAV (auxiliary air valve)
AFS (air flow sensor/switch)
CSV (cold start valve)
DV (deceleration valve)
FD (fuel distributor)
FP (fuel pump)
FV (frequency valve)
CCP (cold control pressure)
RP (residual pressure)
SP (system pressure)
TTS thermotime switch)
TV (thermovalve)
WCP (warm control pressure)
WUR (warm up regulator).
Etc.

Tony

Rawknees'Turbo 12-07-2019 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larmo63 (Post 10681680)
I recently acquired a '78 SC with CIS and after reading this thread, my head is spinning. I wish someone would post simple pictures of each component. Maybe I should buy a book, but I don't know where to start. I know Weber carbs and low pressure systems. My car runs super good, but I pray it never breaks or starts running poorly. What is a "FD?"

I couldn't tell you the different between a WUR and/or an AAR if you gave me a billion dollars cash.

(I was encouraged to ask the dumb questions.)

Are you guys all automotive engineers with degrees from MIT?

This old school CIS/K-Jet training video, along with Tony's acronym list above, will go a long way toward helping you understand this dinosaur-tech injection system.

<iframe width="745" height="559" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/a4fJAfXYxWk" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Larmo63 12-08-2019 09:04 AM

Thank you, I'll buy the book and keep the prayers up for good measure.

Spokes7 05-14-2020 04:14 PM

Test
 
I followed the CIS test and ended up with following results: interpretation?

Test @6.5C

1982 SC ROW

WUR 32ohms

System Pressure 4.5 bar

Cold Control Pressure 1 bar (note while fuel pump running it was 0, after I turned off the fuel pump I recorded 1 bar which held for 10 seconds or so)

Warm Control Pressure 2.3 bar after 5 minutes

Residual Pressure Test: pressure just fell away after 30 seconds to 0

Thoughts?

SkiVT 05-14-2020 04:20 PM

I would start a new troubleshooting thread and not bury your data in this thread.

boyt911sc 05-14-2020 06:20 PM

CIS troubleshooting........
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Spokes7 (Post 10865685)
I followed the CIS test and ended up with following results: interpretation?

Test @6.5C

1982 SC ROW

WUR 32ohms

System Pressure 4.5 bar

Cold Control Pressure 1 bar (note while fuel pump running it was 0, after I turned off the fuel pump I recorded 1 bar which held for 10 seconds or so)

Warm Control Pressure 2.3 bar after 5 minutes

Residual Pressure Test: pressure just fell away after 30 seconds to 0

Thoughts?



Spokes7,

As suggested earlier, it would be better to start a different thread than have it here. Anyway, you need to fix your residual fuel pressure first. There are several culprits which I will tell you later. And your WUR is out of spec.

Re-post this to the Technical Forum for more and better responses.

Tony

mike sampsel 08-03-2020 03:59 AM

The Bentley book "Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management" (page 17 or chapter 6) says to disconnect electrical connections for the Control Pressure Regulator CPR (AKA the WUR) and the Auxiliary-Air device. I assume the air device is the AAR. I find no referral to disconnect the electric connection to the AAR in this fine thread.

Is the Disconnect of the AAR wires needed to run fuel pressure tests?


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