Clutch lever arm stuck

brandett · 07-24-2002, 09:25 AM

Need ideas, the clutch lever arm will not slide of as described by all threads and in 101 projects. I have removed the spring and circlip but it is stuck. Tried with lubricants similar to WD-40 and heat. It´s not like the text : "Slide this arm off its shaft using a small screwdriver for me..

Any ideas before i get really brutal ??

88911coupe · 07-24-2002, 09:43 AM

I'd think a small bearing removal tool would pull that off very effectively without causing it to bind as would using a big screwdriver to pry it off one side at a time. I assume you are SURE there is nothing mechanical holding it on...I can't really tell from the picture.

Good luck

Targa Dude · Targa Dude's Garage

do you have a universal Gear Puller handy?? If not you could fabricate a puller from a piece of cold rolled steel..

find a piece..about 4 inches long 1/4" thick 1" wide
Drill and tap a hole in the center like maybe 10MM or so
put it in a vice bend it into a U shape
Next bend over the tips to a right angle.
run a Long bolt through the threaded hole.
now you have a simple puller.. I don't think it's gonna take alot to pull that arm off.

Jorge (Targa Dude)

brandett · 07-24-2002, 10:01 AM

The pic is not mine, its from the tech article written by our host. I wish mine was that clean...

Will look into the bearing removal tool idea, can't see anything mechanical in the way and haven't found any info that there should be more than the clip and the spring to remove.

Jim Sims · 07-24-2002, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by brandett
I wish mine was that clean...

This may be part of your problem; attempting to pull the arm over splines filled with debris could be jamming it. Did you clean off the splines before trying to remove arm? Cheers, Jim

Targa Dude · Targa Dude's Garage

Well done Jim... well done..

thats it..

Jorge (Targa Dude)

Jdub · 07-24-2002, 10:43 AM

Any chance a '78 transmission or lever was installed? These have a locking pin through the lever that must be driven out prior to pulling the lever off the splines. You can clearly see the pin in the lever if you look at the side about 1/2" up.

Failing that, try rocking the lever as it moves down the splines. The channels may be off and not parallel.

John

brandett · 07-24-2002, 10:26 PM

My guess is that it's stuck by dirt and rust. Have soaked it with cleaners and WD-40 for a couples of days now but it will still not move. It's as clean it can get on the outside but I think the problem is "inside" the splines

Will try with the bearing removal tool as it will apply the force in the right direction. I will not surrender !

cary · 07-25-2002, 05:26 AM

You need to get some brake cleaner and get it all cleaned up.
Then look for a roll pin 1/2 way up the lever like John said.
I don't remember when they started using them.

Here's were its at.

Jdub · 07-25-2002, 06:03 AM

I have to argue that it is not the channels or dirt. It has got to be something mechanical that is keeping that lever on. I do understand that a bit of metal swarf can cause this problem but if you are finding that the lever does not slide down past a certain point, every time, and that the lever, as it is slid down, stops with a solid "thunk" then you have got a pin or other stopping device in there. Look very closely before you go gorilla on this delicate part.

I would also go ahead and cut the lever off to save the splines should it come to that. You don't want to have to R&R the trans after ruining those splines.

Good luck and tell us what the result is!

John

brandett · 07-27-2002, 08:45 AM

Well something was stuck, the nut that is for adjusting the clutch was totaly "welded" by rust to the arm. Trying to remove it lead to a broken nut so I used a hacksaw to free the arm. Eureka it just slided off. Thanks for the input.

Seems that everything is stuck on my car

Except for the head bolts...

Moving on, to the sway arm, yes the bolts seems to be stuck.... Or maybe I should get stronger ??

Wrecked944 · 03:05 PM

I am having the exact identical problem. The arm moves 1mm or so and then stops...feels very mechanical...I have cleaned the thing thoroughly and soaked it in parts cleaner and WD-40'd it to death...I see no pin anywhere holding it on...I *really* don't want to destroy anything on my car...much prefer using brains over brawn...

Brandett, did the problem reveal itself after you cut it loose?

Thanks,

Janus Cole

POST SCRIPT: Inspired by this thread, I went back to the basement and re-cleaned the differential assembly and the clutch lever arm. Sprayed it again with WD-40 and searched again for the "roller pin". Reviewed the exploded diagrams and concluded Jim Sims is correct - it is really just stuck. So I took a deep breath and "got medieval" on the clutch arm using an 18" pry bar. It took an immense amount of effort and I feared I would bend or crack the aluminum differential housing...but it finally came off. It definitely did not just "slide off". It required brutal amounts of force. If I had to do it again, I might just hack saw the thing off rather than risk damaging my differential case.

Thanks,

Jim Sims · 07-27-2002, 04:46 PM

Guys, WD-40 is not a very good penetrating oil nor long term lubricant (it "gums up" eventally). The aerosol cans of "Kroil" or "PB Blaster" are better products to use to penetrate and free up stuck fastemers and other parts. Cheers, Jim

brandett · 07-28-2002, 11:13 PM

Actually I´m not using WD-40, I use a fairly good rust penetrator, but its made in sweden so for the board I write WD-40. I also use break cleaners and enginge cleaner a lot... IMO WD-40 is good to lubricate squeling doors and to drive out moist.

kpmurray · 07-29-2002, 06:48 AM

I have been following posts with respect to clutch arms and adjustment, and wanted to ask if anyone has the same problem that I am experiencing.

I have a 79SC with the pin in the upper arm. I easily removed the snapring and the lower splined clutch arm. However, it was a terribly nasty job in getting the solid pin out of the upper arm. My original intention was to replace the horseshoe spring.

I was never able to get the upper shaft down, even with copious amounts of well directed heat, silikroil etc, and it only rotates (with difficulty) a few degrees in either direction. I was able to get the spring changed, but now have no idea as to how to adjust the clutch.

With the cable off, I adjusted the gap to Waynes book (1.2 mm) recommendations. When I attach the cable, the gap entirely disappears. The pedal throw is exactly 25 mm. Now the clutch slips under hard acceleration.

I left the pin out entirely, and continue to soak the shaft, but other than eyeballing clutch engagement at the 2 cable nuts, is there anything I can be doing? Does Wayne's adjustment procedure hold for the "pin" bearing clutch arms?

PS: I have also changed out the cable, bush and front adjusted the pedal cluster.

Thanks everyone for any recommendations.

Kevin M.