"Stock" fender cooler vs. aftermarket

[toddu]

I want to add a fender cooler. Was looking at Elephant, but it's about $800. I could go with a fluidyne as an example for < $300. No doubt it's a good cooler. As good? Better? Not sure. Would certainly be more work to install something aftermarket if I nerd to fashion a shroud, etc. So is the extra $$$ maybe better in the long run??

Any advice appreciated!

Todd

[mreid]

I followed Jeremy's approach and used an Earls cooler with AN-16 fittings. Chuck at Elephant provided the metric to AN adapters. I also installed a front valance Earls cooler in series. Both together were around $500. Typically, the biggest challenge with aftermarket is the size of the fittings. Most are either -10 (too small) or -12 (marginal imo). The Earls coolers are -16 which provides great flow.

[juanbenae]

there is a mocal kit that is a direct replacement for the sc loop cooler. do a search for mocal kit

[Reiver]

I bought a used Carrera OEM with block off and fan off of ebay a few years back...works great. You can also check car dismantlers.
It will not work as well without a block off forcing air thru the radiator.

[Ducman]

Somewhat depends on how much cooling you need.

My stock trombone was ok for 2.7 rs spec except for track. Even aftermarket setrab was marginal at track with fab block off. The elephant wide mouth and block off were required and then all was fine.

When I installed 2.8 ss even the elephant was not enough. Had to add a second wide mouth under the driver fender. Once again now all is fine.

Knowing what i know now...i would not mess around. Chuck makes a good product and easy to install. Get the full kit with block off and do it right. You won't be disappointed.


Don

[aston@ultrasw.c]

Elephant Racing makes some superb kit and it is well engineered.

However, if you are willing to do some research and fabrication you can definitely do it for less.

It all depends on your skill level and if you enjoy figuring stuff out in the garage.

[Joe Bob]

Used coolers aren't my fave as they are hard to clean and most being sold are being sold for a reason. So....don't discount the brass row coolers. Easy to boil out and work very well. Underpriced in most cases as well as better at taking a rock hit.

[toddu]

Originally Posted by aston@ultrasw.c

Elephant Racing makes some superb kit and it is well engineered.

However, if you are willing to do some research and fabrication you can definitely do it for less.

It all depends on your skill level and if you enjoy figuring stuff out in the garage.

My neighbor is a welder and is capable of some fabrication. Not terribly worried about mounting it, more so about fashioning some kind of shrouding. But, some sheet metal, etc. that should not be horrible either.

Earl's seems to have a nice 42 row, 16AN cooler that I think will fit. It's 13 x 8 with fittings on the top of the cooler.

Todd

[toddu]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

Used coolers aren't my fave as they are hard to clean and most being sold are being sold for a reason. So....don't discount the brass row coolers. Easy to boil out and work very well. Underpriced in most cases as well as better at taking a rock hit.

I'm also shying away from used coolers after spending very significant $$$ on a rebuild. Just not worth saving a few dollars on the unknown (which sort of goes against my argument for potential alternatives to the spendy "stock" option, but I think there are viable, cheaper solutions.).

Todd

[Reiver]

You can have any radiator prof cleaned out and pressure tested...I got the whole deal for 250 bucks complete with OEM lines....
Since it is made for the car it fits perfectly...works as designed etc.
Why wouldn't you trust a cleaned and tested radiator?

[toddu]

The used ones I have seen have been ~ $500, add a few for cleaning, still no guarantees and your maybe $150 cheaper than brand new.

YMMV

Todd

[Reiver]

Todd,
Whatever route you go I'd advise a block off and a fan. A rad by itself is more efficient than the trombone but not too much so unless it has a forced air environment.
I often run in 100+ degrees, the highest this year 115, and never see 210 oil temp unless I get on it...gen 194 to 200. Prior to the rad .. w/trombone, I'd hit 230 plus all of the time.
Many aircooled guys just don't drive in Phx in the summer if they don't have a proper radiator set up.
In the cooler months I block off my air scoop so it'll get to proper temp.
The fan, if switched in the cockpit, allows you to run it when at stops/in traffic. The fan does not just hold the temp, in my case, but actually lowers oil temp sitting still.

[47silver]

The Porsche oil cooler and ER coolers are systems. they have been engineered, tested and have a history of working properly without causing engine damage. The stock thermostat has a built in relief valve, most after markets do not have this feature. If your lines get crimped and you do not have the relief your motor is toast.
To buy parts and pieces you have exactly that, parts and pieces, I would not want to purchase your car as I would look at a parts pieces installation as only the tip of the ice-berg of what corners were cut with your vehicle.
I too like you was going to go with parts and pieces but I bought a used cooler from a pelican, had it tested and cleaned, bought used lines, bought a new stat. I took a day and put it together in the driveway and I was surprised that everything fit together easily and it looks like it belongs in the car.

[Trackrash]

Sorry if I missed it, but I didn't see how the car is used.

For a street driven car stock Carrera with a fan is the way to go. These work well in traffic. Personally, I would try to find someone who is parting out a car and just buy the whole system.

For a tracked car a front cooler is the way to go, IMO.

[Dodge Man]

Elephant stuff is good and in stock when you order. It is a Carrera cooler and there are lower priced similar coolers from our host. However, Elephant has the clips & gaskets/rubbers, etc.. Keep it in the fender to keep it simple. I went fender instead of RS front & center for better aero but I get air flow thru the Horn Grills. New vs. used is a personal choice but if you have time constraints lean toward new is MHO. If your 81 SC has stock heater boxes, etc.., then by all means get a nice cooler with the electric fan for traffic in the southern heat & humidity. Right now I just have a loop of braided steel up front to test for how much cooler I really need. I can get along with just a trombone because I have a set of SSI & a Dansk SS muffler in an early car(no SMOG). If you are planning on keeping the car, SS exhaust makes a big difference with the heat transfer. On SMOG cars the SSI also makes the CAT or TE more efficient and still meets SMOG requirements when done properly. Air & Oil cooling are what makes you air cooled Porsche live between fun times and expen$ive engine repairs.

[toddu]

Anyone know the approx dimensions of the stock fender mount cooler?

[schumicat]

try British American Transfer

I have one of their Mocal fender coolers and it works great. Mocal are very reputable, made in Britain.

[enzo1]

Originally Posted by schumicat

try British American Transfer

I have one of their Mocal fender coolers and it works great. Mocal are very reputable, made in Britain.

http://97.74.32.155/files/kits.pdf

[juanbenae]

Mocal front cooler pics

[Sboxin]

.
Todd,

We are using 2 of these Pelican coolers in our 78SC 911 3.8L race car - - so far they
are doing the job and not leaking - - - well we also have a center front Setrab
from Elephant.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-TMP-9802

We had to do some fabrication, air flow improvement, etc - - - because race car . . .
You would do fine with the fan like others have said.

Also, you have a huge Porsche recycle dealer there in North Carolina you might call to see what they have for oil lines, coolers and T-Stats.
http://www.dcauto.com/


Regards,