aluminum or cast iron pressure plate

[ferrari2porsche]

Looking at a clutch kit which includes either an aluminum
or cast iron pressure plate. trying to figure out which is
best. I don't plan on racing car. just daily driver.

[Jim Sims]

Cast iron is cheaper to make but has more inertia therefore engine takes longer to rev up and down but it will also have a slightly smoother idle due to increased "flywheel" effect. Cast iron is usually what is offered in many of the clutch kit "deals"; the aluminum ones cost slightly more. I'd find out what was standard with the engine you're installing and use that type. Jim

[ferrari2porsche]

Heres the catch, the transmission is from a 77 2.7 engine. The engine I'm attaching to it is an 80 3.0.

[Jim Sims]

I'd use the type that was standard (cast iron or aluminum) for the '80 engine, just make sure the clutch release bearing (throwout bearing) that attaches to the pressure plate will work with the '77 tranmission guide tube and clutch fork. Also, don't forget to install a new pilot bearing and make sure it is greased. Jim

[ferrari2porsche]

Thank you very much Jim for that information.

[marcesq]

Use the '77 pressure plate, clutch, and guide tube. Use the '80 flywheel and pilot bearing.

I had an aluminum pressure plate on the 2.7, which is going on the 3.2. I believe that the aluminum pressure plate allowed my 2.7 to rev faster. There was no idle problem.

Take your pick on aluminum vs. cast if faster revs is not a priority.

[Bill Verburg]

Any of the 225mm c/pp will work fine. The Sachs Sport is a particularly nice unit, as is the Centerforce. The difference in weight between the al and iron versions is not that great, the problem wrt weight arose on the 964/993 models that went from a ~40# unit to a ~10# unit, causing idling and stalling problems. Do replace the pilot bearingand throwout bearing at the same time that you r/r the c/pp