A-Arm Bushing Question

[Doug E]

I'm getting ready to do some work on the front suspension and I received my order today from our host. Please help me sleep tonight and tell me that I ordered the right part to replace all 4 a-arm bushings.

From the Pelican catelog I ordered #PB-12P which was listed as the a-arm bushing kit. For some reason I think that two of the bushings should be diferent sizes (front vs. rear) but when I look at the 4 I received the only noticable difference I can see is that on two of them M02558 is stamped on the thin edge while on the other two M02557 is stamped on the thin edge.

Attached is a picture of each one with a different number stamp.

Can anyone confirm that all 4 should be the same size?

TIA - btw, I'm going to call Pelican in the morning but I would like to avoid any sleep loss if possible

[kstylianos]

Sleep well Doug. They are exactly the same

Mine were stamped with different numbers, but when you slide them on either front or back, you can't tell the difference. BTW: If they are tight you'll have to hand fit them. PM me if you need help hand fitting, I have a 'jig'.

I also have the ball joint castle nut tool....

[mike mueller]

Same size.....

The housing are different but the difference is too slight for a compliant bushings. I make roller needle bearings and there is enough of a difference to have the rear bushing insert .010"
smaller than the front so that the press fit is not too hard.
(something like that, don't have my notes or drawings in front of me)

If you have a Dremel, I'd cut spiral grooves into the bushings and use the supplied grease for sure.

Press the bushings into the housing first, then focus on how well they fit onto the a-arms.

[Lucky]

Doug,

Let me know if you need to borrow a Dremel. I've got one you are welcome to use, but I know nothing about fitting bushings (beyond PP reading!). I would like to learn from your experience as this sounds like a good project for next winter.

[Doug E]

Thanks guys - makes me feel like I almost know what I am doing!

Charlie - I just sent you a PM on the NoVa board.
Mike - appreciate the helpful hints.
John - thanks for the offer but I've got a dremel and air tools. I'll probably be doing a write-up for dv but I'll let you know how it goes either way.

[Jdub]

Mike:

Is the idea of housing first, then A-arm to determine how much the bushing must deform to account for the housing shape?

I ask because I would have thought that the housing would essentially "pin" the bushing in place on the A-arm through deformation (that deformation is essential here).

Granted, these are the poly bushings. I have a set I purchased from Smart that are all rubber. Obviously I won't be dealing with the critical tolerances!

John

[Neilk]

John,

When you "pin" the bushing in the housing it can alter the inner diameter of the bushing which will cause squeaks and the proper rotation of the a-arm. By pining the bushing, you can then "fix" the inner diameter to prevent any problems.

[mike mueller]

John,

I'm not too sure how round any of these housing came from the factory. Due to the design of the front housing, the rubber bushing will "flow" into the void left by the two piece stamping.

The rears are better designed since it is a continuous circle.

To be honest with you, I don't know if the flowing is a problem with the engineered plastics. If it did happen, one could always fill in the void with weld or even a metal filled epoxy.

Also, make sure the surface of the A-arm is as smooth as possible.
If pitted or the powder coating or paint looks like an orange peel, I'd smooth it out with 600-1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

Probebly overkill, but hey, don't we all just get a little crazy once in a while in the details??

[Jdub]

Neil and Mike:

Thanks! I will be attempting to smooth up the male post onto which the bushing will sit. That said, with rubber bushings, I do not expect that they won't deform to accommodate the irregularities. The car is pure street/daily driver and will have a complete refresh from Turbo tierods out to bushings, shocks, etc.

I am also assuming that a swipe of silicon-based grease would not be a bad idea though.

John

[89911]

Do take the time to put zirk fittings in the a-arms. It doesn't take long to do and only requires a few items from sears or any half decent auto shop (drill and tap to match the thread of a zirk fitting and the fittings). I put polyurethane bushing in my car last year and lubed them up. They were precisely fitted and did not bind at all in the housing. It worked great for the season. After sitting for the winter and doing a weekend DE, they sound terrible. My kids are always asking me why my car makes all the groaning, creeking, and other noises. It gets better as the car is driven, but low speed they are noisy. Wasn't this bad last year.I'm going to pull the a-arms soon and put in the zirks. We recently did this to my brothers 87 coupe. If done properly, you can place them where they are easy to get to with the wheel on. A few squirts or grease and there good to go. A must!!!!!!!

[Rick Lee]

Oh, so I suppose you're gonna upsize torsion bars too "while you're in there." Well, then you have to do the rear t bars as well. And while you're at it, why not get some Sway Aways and Neatrix bushings? Then maybe a $700 corner balance job at Dulles. Ooopps, almost forgot the trailing arm bushings - possible engine and tranny drop there. There's just no end to the possibilities....

[Doug E]

Nice try Richard but for now ball joints, a-arm bushings and sway bar bushings are it.

We'll save the engine drop for next winter

[69 911s]

Doug,
Surely we can talk you into at least some turbo tie rod ends, you know, while you're in there anyway. How about a DIY lower and align article for DV? I'd help (drink beers and make sarcastic comments)

[Zeke]

I'm curious about the mismatched part nos. on the bushings. Try this: Squeeze the open end of each bushing and see how much you can collapse the circle. The race bushings are so hard that they won't collapse, whereas the street bushings have some flex. I wouldn't use them if they don't seem to be all the same hardness. I received a set of mismatched bushings originally.

[jamesjedi]

I know it is a very old post...but it is information that I was looking for. They maybe identical, but

Sierra Madre had the following on their web site;

"Includes two front (M02557) and two rear(M02558) bushings"

I may help someone.

[proffighter]

I had A-Arm bushing kit from Weltmeister years ago. The rear ones were made of polygraphite and the front ones some kind of hard rubber... So there may be a wanted difference at yours too...?

It looks like the front ones should be softer if some difference between them