If you don't........
 

Jeff,

You are doing great in your first engine drop with all the pictures and labels. To answer your question, you need to remove the clutch lever arm because you won't be able to separate the transmission from the engine without swinging out the release bearing fork. Remove the circlip at the bottom of the shaft, and the short lever shown in your picture would slide down. Thus allowing for the shaft holding the release bearing fork to swing freely. Remove the three (3) 15-mm nuts securing the transmission to the engine.

Now you are ready to separate the transmission from the engine. Keep us posted.

Tony

Great job Jeff. I didn't get much time to work on mine yesterday so am a few hours behind you. Unfortunately I have three weeks before our next race so I better get cracking. BTW how did you undo that oil line nut?

Thanks Tony. That makes sense.

Haven't done any of the hard oil lines yet. Will tackle that tonight maybe. I think if I get a good stretch of time, I can get it ready to go.

If you are talking about the hardline from the case that goes to a flex/hardline to the thermostat.. that was a bear for me. Tried heat, PB Blaster, swearing... what ultimately worked was grabbing the handles of the wrenches with a pipe clamp - the kind with a crank handle to tighten - used this to provide torque and they eventually came undone. Made sure to use antisieze when I put them back together.

My goal is engine and trans on the bench (or my foot) my night fall. SmileWavy

New goal: engine and trans on bench, eventually.

I'm lucky to get home by nightfall! But I will try and got after this line tonight.

I just went through this as well and what worked for me was two 18" lengths of pipe slid over
the wrenches. Gave me great leverage and the nuts
broke loose right away. Are you planning any preventive
maintenance with seals while you've got your engine and trans out?

Like....................?

Jeff - While the engine is out, you want to do a thorough clean. But before you do that, take a look at any oil drips to see where they are coming from. While you are at it, look up "Triangle of Death". There are thee items you want to replace. The engine thermostat gasket, the oil breather gasket, and the oil temp o-ring(or was it a crush washer?). These items are dirt cheap, and I promise you that if you don't replace them, your engine will begin to leak right there within 100 miles of the re-installation. LOL! This can be remedied with the engine in situ, but is a total hassle compared to doing it while the engine is out.

I assume you'll be doing a valve adjustment, checking the head studs, and a good nut and bolt check of everything on the engine.

The key here is to take your time and have fun. It is so awesome the way you have labeled your wires. You are doing a great job.

Be sure to listen to Tony (boyt911SC). I never met him, but he seems to really have a bunch of experience with this stuff.

Best of luck, and whatever happens, rest assured you are but a posting on this board away from any answers you may need.

I got the following via email, as a "While you are in there" from fellow (and local Chicago guy) Kevin Lehmann, KTL to Pelicans;


Low oil pressure light switch
Internal thermostat
Breather cover hose
Oil cooler
Check intake manifold nuts & look for blown/sucked gaskets if you find any really loose barrel nuts
Main fuel line under intake and rear crossover fuel line connecting fuel damper to pressure regulator
Trans input shaft seal & guide tube (likely that guide tube is fuched)

Amen to the above, you may also consider replacing the seals on both sides of your crankshaft, the main seal and output seal on your trans too.

Can someone elaborate on the oil cooler and internal thermostat? Are we just talking about the oil cooler seals or the oil cooler itself? What about the internal thermostat? Is this something that needs replaced as a wear item?
My engine is out and has about 133k miles on it.
Thanks!

Made a little progress tonight but interrupted with family activities. Still first thing I did was fashion some bumpers on the lift because I'm always banging my head under there. So I took a couple of tennis balls, slit them and place them over the metal stops on the lift.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377312405.jpg


Then I messed with the speedo sirs some more. I don't see how this connector is going to get thru the grommet on the rear wall. I stuck my fingers back there, no room. Some suggest taking the sender off. Is this the piece you all are referring to? :confused: :confused:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377312539.jpg



After that I disconnected the starter. No I know why you disconnect BOTH battery terminals. That a tight fit in there.

Is it only the large cable leads that need to come or does the small wire connected there née to come off too? :confused:

I tried to get some leverage on that and its pretty darn tight.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377312696.jpg

Got around to removing the clutch levers.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377312782.jpg



Also got a little seepage on the bottom of the tranny. Thoughts on what that might be?:confused: :confused:


Not sure what that access piece is for.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377312848.jpg

1. Yes, that inch size plastic plug is the magnetic speed sensor. Remove the clip and it comes off.
2. the big wire comes off the starter, the little wire can stay
3. That tranny is not really leaking that bad. Sources are shift rod seal and the wet CV joint in the picture.

The access port is where you inspect and adjust the shift planes.

Thanks! The CV joint is wet from brushing some ATF/Acetone solution on there to loosen them a bit. They looked corroded.

You can leave the speedo sender if you want to. You have to pull the spade terminal out of the plastic block. What you'll end up with is a free wire on the sender side of the wiring and the plastic block thing stays in the car. That's how you can pull the wires/grommet out and not deal with plastic thing not fitting thru!

Another potential source of that leakage on the trans is likely the shift rod access cover plate. Looks pretty dry to me. Just wet from the acetone/atf treatment. Usually don't need any penetrant for those CV bolts. They're so well lubricated with grease, they have NO problem coming loose. Hence the reason people occasionally have an axle come free that beats up the underside of the car.......

Oil cooler is typically the seals. Not the cooler itself. But sometimes the cooler can have a core leak. Not really common though. Much more common for the seals themselves to leak. I equate them to oil return tube leakage, maybe a little less frequent than that.

Internal t-stat on top of engine case is leak prone due to o-ring failure. The t-stat itself is pretty reliable. Easy to fix even if it does have a regulator failure. Same regulator piece that is replaceable in the external t-stat for the front fender oil cooler.