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resurface flywheel
Do any of you know who resurfaces/rebalances 915 flywheels? Someone close to SoCal would be nice.
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(1) '77 Chassis and '79 SC 3.0 project car (1) '79 911SC 3.0 Widebody SC (1) '15 Ford F-150 4x4 3.5TT Toluca Lake, CA |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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Engine Machine Service, Inglewood near LAX, Dan or Bill
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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Registered
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Soooooo, I bought a used lightweight flywheel that I think is causing some shuddering when I go into first. Would you guys re-surface it or just buy another?
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(1) '77 Chassis and '79 SC 3.0 project car (1) '79 911SC 3.0 Widebody SC (1) '15 Ford F-150 4x4 3.5TT Toluca Lake, CA |
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Registered
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counterquestion: do you seriously envisage using doubtful parts?
rather not.
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 35
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Just had mine done at Napa they have a machinist. He's done work for me before, cost me 48.00
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 1,493
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i would resurface unless it has been done before. I did some research before having mine resurfaced and many people advised not doing it more than once. any competent machine shop should be able to do it, the one who did mine did a great job and I picked it just because it was close. $40, I think.
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1982 911SC, Mocal oil cooler, Bilsteins, Carrera tensioners, backdated heat, factory short shift, Seine gate shift, turbo tie rods, pop off. 2005 Mercedes-Benz C230 kompressor sport 6-speed (daily driver) |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
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Quote:
Resurfaced correctly? Some flywheels have two surfaces to remove material, the friction area and the pressure plate mounting area. Material removed should be equal. In addition, the preferred method of resurfacing is to grind it rather than machining with a lathe. Grinding will remove hard spots while a lathe tool is more apt to skip over hardened areas leaving high spots that may cause the symptoms you have. MHO, Sherwood |
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Red Line Service
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+1 For Engine Machine Service
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Marc Bixen/Red Line Service West Los Angeles, Ca. www.redlneservice.net / info@redlineservice.net Podcast:"Marc Bixen Live" https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4DPQbCjH3OQ_h1iUcsrFfA Last edited by Marc Bixen; 08-23-2013 at 06:46 PM.. |
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Registered
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Quote:
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(1) '77 Chassis and '79 SC 3.0 project car (1) '79 911SC 3.0 Widebody SC (1) '15 Ford F-150 4x4 3.5TT Toluca Lake, CA |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
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Diagnosis is pretty much a guesstimate from long distance, but the situation I suggested (uneven friction surface due to uncut hard spots) can produce the chattering symptom you're experiencing. Could also result from a lubricant leak onto the friction areas (faulty trans. input shaft seal or rear main seal).
To confirm, remove the starter motor assy. and inspect the clutch/flywheel area and trans. clutch housing for signs of centrifuged oil stains. Gearbox oil has a unique odor as well. If the shaft shaft seal is good, you shouldn't smell any in that area. The absence of gear oil doesn't preclude a leak in the rear crank seal. If any of the friction areas were previously soaked with lube, then "cleaned", the oil could resurface and cause the friction components to grab rather than smoothly engage with each other. Perform your diagnosis in the order of easy-to-do first, before moving on to the more involved/difficult/costly strategies. In the end, you may have to drop the drivetrain and separate the gearbox and trans and take a closer look at all the related pieces. It doesn't sound like the end of the world, but merely an inconvenient glitch to make it drivable again. Sherwood |
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Quote:
-P
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(1) '77 Chassis and '79 SC 3.0 project car (1) '79 911SC 3.0 Widebody SC (1) '15 Ford F-150 4x4 3.5TT Toluca Lake, CA |
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