Having a problem installing original decklid

kretzj · 08-09-2002, 07:58 PM

I have been restoring my '72 911 for 6 years and the decklid has been off the car the entire time. After painting, I tried to reinstall the lid tonight and it doesn't seem to fit very well. The lid needs to be pushed towards the back of the car to clear the top when opening and the right side is lower than the left. This is all the original parts on the original car. What could I be doing wrong? Does the lid need shims between the lid and the hinges?

Jon

emcon5 · emcon5's Garage

I swapped my factory lid for one with a tail attached, and it was a pain to get it lined up properly. Mine had a few washers as shims between the hinges and the lid, and I had to work with the depth of the latch, and the bump stops on the lower corners as well.

Took over an hour of monkeying with it to get it right.

Tom

DRV · 08-09-2002, 11:38 PM

Yes you do use shims (washers) between the hinge and lid to adjust height.
Dennis Varney

kretzj · 08-10-2002, 02:41 AM

Does this mean I have to place multiple washers on the side without the strut because it is sitting lower? Did the factory do this?

Jon

JMPRO · JMPRO's Garage

Jon, after a trip to a body shop for some small damage { i hate body shops, very likely the dirtest place in the world} my car was returned with a trunk lid misalignment ,which rather than going back to the dirt hole after i had detailed my car, i decided to fix it myself. Ater 2 hours and a handful of shims it was fixed. Just be carfull because you may think you have it right and open the lid and chip the paint on the top corner.
Jerry

DRV · 08-10-2002, 02:55 PM

Not because of the strut, but washers are used to adjust the height. My 74 had them I believe from the factory.
Dennis

pwd72s · 08-10-2002, 03:11 PM

Just back from the garage. Have to admit, I didn't know the factory used washers as shims. But for what it's worth, here's how it goes on a stock '72S, with a lid that has never been off the car. Driver's side, front hinge bolt has one washer between the lid and the hinge. The rear bolt has none. Passenger side, the front hinge bolt has two washers between the lid and the hinge. The rear bolt has none. With the lid closed, the gap between the lid and the body (below the rear window) is 1/4". I doubt that all cars were exactly the same. But offering this as a starting point? Hope it helps, Paul

Vipergrün · 08-10-2002, 07:29 PM

My 80SC has two washers/shims on both sides of the car at the rear bolts of the hinges. The front bolts do not have any washers/shims. I'd put an old towel between the lid and the body just in case the lid slips.

Took me a good hour to get mine off, back on, and re-aligned correctly.

cheers
-Brad
80SC

kretzj · 08-11-2002, 07:55 PM

I placed washers on the passenger side and now it looks even. When the lid is closed, the gap at the top is rather large. I was looking at some pictures of some cars and the gap is much smaller than mine. If I push the lid forward, the edge will rub against the body as it opens. This is one frustrating job.

Jon

Two Oh · 08-11-2002, 08:43 PM

Jon, per factory specs. The bottom of the engine lid is to meet the corners of the fenders. The gap at the top [ below the rear window] is 3-4mm as are the side gaps.

Bill Douglas · 08-11-2002, 08:49 PM

Hi Jon.

Like the guys said, do the washers thing to align it at the top (hinge end). As for the bottom, there are rubber plugs that screw into the corners. These affect the height at each corner and by srewing them in or out you can get the bottom edge of the engine lid even.

Bill '79SC

Roland Kunz · 08-12-2002, 03:34 PM

Hello

Rear lids had always been shimed.

Not to forget the mass-strap under each "rear" bolt.

A other problem is the "uplift" from the corner where the gas strut attaches to.

If the gaps are to large then someone maybe changed the fenders without fiting them to match the engine lid.

Grüsse