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sparkplug wire experts...

I changed the stock steel braided wires on my SC with a set of plain rubber '69-'73 wires because I read a few threads here which said that was okay. The result were not very good. The car began missing badly, "something" in the engine bay was ticking, and my turn signal relay up behind my gauges was ticking!

I put my old stock wires back on and the missing went away, the turn signal relay stopped ticking along with whatever was ticking in the engine bay.

None of the wires were on wrong. I checked several times.

I checked the resistance of my old stock wires. They were all 3700-4200 ohms. I guess they are fine. My new rubber-only wires all have a resistance of 1300 ohms??? I believe their brand is PVL, and there was a bunch of German writing on the package. They have Beru connectors on them. Did I get the wrong wires?

I really don't have a concept of what the resistance levels of wires have to do with???



Thanks,
Rob
1980SC <--- lots of black smoke!!


Last edited by 1980SC; 08-10-2002 at 02:24 PM..
Old 08-10-2002, 02:17 PM
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Magencor dammit!
Old 08-10-2002, 06:22 PM
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I have an '80 SC and got rid of the steel braided wires. Just use all the old parts, like connectors, etc. Get new wire cables and order the brass end connectors with the treaded ends which are crimped on. In other words, make your own harness.
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Old 08-10-2002, 07:49 PM
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So why don't these wires work on my SC? I've read here that '69-'73 wires should work fine. They don't. I assume it is because their resistance is only 1300 ohms, but why is that so???
Old 08-11-2002, 08:13 AM
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Rob,

The precise resistance of the connectors is not critical, and connectors that have a steady resistance reading, even when shaken, are not causing the problem!

OEM Beru connectors for 911 engines come in two flavors, 3000 Ohm, and 4000 Ohm ... with 10% tolerance, so any that read outside 2700-3300 Ohms, or 3600-4400 Ohms are not in spec ... so yours sound like imitations or counterfeits. If you have end-to-end continuity, and yet a miss is present, the wire insulation is breaking down. Put the 'new' wires back on and start the engine in a dark garage or unlit driveway ... if you see arcing or a blue-white corona effect around any of the wires ... you have your answer to the miss and mysterious ticking, too -- EMI/RFI from the leakage! Some cheap wire sets use vinyl insulation that isn't satisfactory, and doesn't meet industry specs for ignition cabling!
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Last edited by Early_S_Man; 08-11-2002 at 08:36 AM..
Old 08-11-2002, 08:30 AM
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Rob:

Magnecors are THE ticket.

They have the RFI/EMI supression in the wire, not the connector, so you never have to buy those unreliable Beru things ever again. From experience, its one-time-deal,....

Nothing even comes close.
Old 08-11-2002, 08:40 AM
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why the differance in wires between 2.7, 3.0 liter cars and 3.2 engined 911s??
keith
Old 08-11-2002, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by kepperly
why the differance in wires between 2.7, 3.0 liter cars and 3.2 engined 911s??
keith
Only the 3.2 wires are different, the 2.2-2.4-2.7-3.0 and 3.3 Turbo are identical.
Old 08-11-2002, 10:02 AM
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Those of you that are not satisfied with Beru connectors, what are you using in their place. Does Magnecor sell spark plug boots separately?
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Old 08-11-2002, 10:16 AM
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The '69-'73 sets are DECIDEDLY DIFFERENT from the '74-'83 cabling ... besides the shielding!

The '69 design uses distributor and spark plug connectors that have tapered screw threads that screw directly into the copper-cored 7 mm Hypalon wire end. Those early [discontinued] Beru connectors seem to be more reliable than the later '74 design, which has a female threaded receptacle into which a crimped-on screw connector at the end of the wire is attached. The crimped connector can come loose from the wire, and the later Beru's seem to go open much more frequently than the earlier design!
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Old 08-11-2002, 10:45 AM
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Okay, the wires DO work. Once I ran the engine at night like Warren suggested I saw the problem. When I removed the two nuts that hold the wire's grounding straps to the coil bracket, I failed to tighten them back up. Major sparking going on. The misses and ticking are all gone now. Ooops. Yet again, thanks for the help!


Rob
1980SC

Old 08-12-2002, 08:47 AM
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