1st drop & top end observations & questions
 

Last night I got started with my first engine drop, undertaken to cure high oil consumption, leaks and some smoke. Pleasantly surprised that I could get most of the disconnections done inside a few hours. A few questions and observations -

1. Bentley 101-5 says to disconnect "multipin harness near left rear shock tower". Mine is a 87 and the book was written for all Carreras - I really can't see this connector - is it there?

2. Do all wires come off the starter?

3. Any trick to getting clutch slave cyl out? 13mm hex bolts I believe... access sucks!

4. I recall reading that theres an easier solution to the speedo wire disconnect than Bentely offers?

5. Bentely says to disconnect brake booster vac line - which side of the T makes most sense? This one is hard to pull apart.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379506500.jpg

Observations -

I notice a lot of people who drop w/o a lift use 6ton Jacks. I went whole hog and got 12 ton jacks, these things are MONSTERS and feel unbelievably sound even with 32in clear below bumper. Highly recommended, especially at HF with the 25% off that's floating around this month. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379506625.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379506632.jpg

Drop Answers
 

I have an 87 also, have dropped my engine twice.
That multipin is the connection to the fuel injectors. (forgot to connect it on my second re-install resulting in a no start).
Think you can see which wires disconnect from the starter once you're under there. You can also get the engine to a partial drop condition, then disconnect. Access gets better and they aren't "tight".
Same may go for the slave cylinder, no rush on that one. You can get to it as I remember. Have to play with your tool selection and hand position.
Speedo wire ?? I just unplugged like the Bentley said, don't remember any issues.
Brake booster hose, I just tugged it loose or loosened a clamp. Most hoses stay with the motor so unhook closer to the car. Again, you can drop it a little for access or view if you want.
Those jacks look great, I gotta investigate. I've never been really happy with my cars steadiness when up high but I only leave it there a few minutes and never get underneath it during the actual extraction.

1. Reach in, to the right of the left-side-shock-mount is the black 14 pin connector, grab and lift straight up
2. Only the battery wire comes off the starter for the drop
3, Let the engine drop until you can see the slave from above and disconnect, OR remove from below the car while the engine is in
4. Same side as the slave, remove the speedo sensor from the gear box and hang off to the side
5. The right side of the T, cut the one time use crimp style clamp and use a new hose clamp on the way back

Thanks guys this is great. I'll update my progress tonight.

That multi-pin connector is there, just slide your hand in there and you will find it. Lower the engine a bit, and then remove the slave cylinder.

That T-connector is a pain, you really have to pull on it to get it loose.

I always disconnect the speedo wires inside the car. Just remove the cover on the floor between the rear seats. They will be right there. Easy-peasy.

And most of all, just take your time and have fun.

Those 12 ton jacks work great - I use 4 and put them on the jack points built into the body. Using this JACK from our host, I got the car at the top of the jacks.

I was able to get the motor out without removing the rear valence by tipping the front to the ground, and putting the rear jacks on the torsion bar covers.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379515116.jpg

Mike

Mconn that is my plan. I got some solid rubber chocks to hold the front wheels. The angle is extreme but I did a test and it seems to be secure. Did you have any notion that the car wanted to roll forward? Happen to recall the clear dimension from floor to lowest point on the bumper?

The car did not roll forward, and was very stable. Those jack stands have a small bevel in the top that holds the TB cover. I don't remember the height at the rear, but it was tight, I should have removed the heater blower. That was using a HF trans jack with a piece of plywood bolted to it.

Mike

Clear Dim.
 

With my 87 and similar motorcycle jack, I needed right at 36" height. Did not remove the rear valance.

Can someone explain how the motor should sit on the ATV jack? If I don't do anything to the jack, the heat exchangers will carry all the weight. What's the thinking here? I'm more worried about crushing the heat exchangers than I am with stability as the jack has fairly wide rails.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379523973.jpg

Some folks use 2x4s, although that requires more height.

I have never had to remove the rear bumper, and have dropped my engine five times in the past 13 years.

Not to be dense, but what's the goal of the 2x4's - to pick up the bottom of the motor case instead of the heat exchangers?

You are not dense at all. sometimes we just put two 2x4s across the rails of the jack in order to spread out the weight. You should be OK resting the engine on the heat exchangers though.

If anyone else has had a different experience, please jump in.

I use a piece of plywood attached to the top of the jack with a couple of small bolts and nuts, just gives more space for the engine to sit on. The heat exchangers hold the motor up just fine.

When I did this I had a piece of plywood to set on the ATV "rails" and I'd added some shaped pieces of 2X4 to the plywood so the case seam of the engine was supporting most of the weight. I had some thinner pieces under the HE's so that the engine did not rock to either side.

I added a couple of pieces of wood to the center of the plywood to locate the center case flange and account for the elevation difference between the flange and the heat exchangers.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379549055.jpg

Thanks all this is really useful. I am 99% finished with my disconnections and almost ready to drop. A few more questions -

1. The large oil line from the sump to the front mounted cooler - Bentley implies it should be disconnected at the very large fitting (31mm/36mm I believe). Can't it be removed at the adjacent hose clamp instead? If not, what do you use to remove it - channel locks?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379556049.jpg

2. After that I'm ready to drop. Can someone walk me through it step by step? Bentley says to first remove the two bolts @ trans x member. When I do this, the engine/trans will start to drop, correct? Then as I remove the two engine x member bolts it will continue. Just those 4 fasteners hold the whole mess in place right?

3. I'm going to tart up my plywood base per the suggestions here, but I want to ask - is it okay if the car is angled forward for the first phase of the drop, or should I have it dead plumb so that the HE's sit flush on the plywood, not canted as seen in my pics below.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379556075.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379556091.jpg

We put the ATV jack further forward to help balance the engine and transmission

EDIT: This works a whole lot better with 2 people
Yes, only 4 bolts holds the engine and trans to car
Make sure the jack will lift the E/T when you start loosening the bolts
Be very careful getting the trans shift rod out of the body - this is where
the 2 people helps - you will be rocking the engine to get past the rear body -
this sounds and feels scary - but it will work and when you are done you
will really enjoy a cool beverage !!

Regards,

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379557218.jpg

Remove the clamp to remove that hose. Do not use that type of clamp going back together. It does,t have the proper strength, and if you try to get it tighter, it chews the hose and will strip. You need 2 Oetiker crimp on clamps side by side. I have them and the crimping too. I can send.

You gotta push the jack forward to have it under the trans and engine. The trans is heavy and it will tip that way if you just try to support it under the heat exchangers. Once the trans is off, you can rest to work on the engine.

It's a bit of ballet required to get it right. I'm sure there are hundreds of pics here.

Are you guys sure that the hose clamp shown is correct? It almost looks like someone repaired that line. All mine have the pressed hydraulic connections at the ends.