This can't be right- front end height adjustment
 

I've been doing a good bit of searching, and think my issue might be with re-indexing my torsion bar adjustment levers.

From what I understand, the levers are currently maxed at their lowest setting. However, I have a significant gap between the tire and both front fenders.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...928_145637.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...928_145620.jpg

And here are the passenger's and driver's side torsion bar adjustment levers. From my understanding, this position is fully 'lowered':

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...928_145720.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...928_145825.jpg


No matter which direction I turn the adjustment bolt, the levers do no budge. I have soaked them both in PB blaster, and tried gently prying them with a pickle fork and no tension from the bolt. Nada.

Thoughts? Where would I find a spacer puck if the car had one?

What this is telling me is the front struts are bottoming out against the bumpers. Search "strut bump stop".

Are you absolutely sure that is the direction for lowering it? Seems to me (and I am ignorant on this issue) that if you add tension to the spring the car goes up.

Back them off a quarter inch and drive around the block.

Suspension settling is required when you make these adjustments.

Puck is on top of the shocks. About a half inch thick if your car has them. 3" diameter or so.

Lots of folks here who know this stuff. You will get an answer.

Lower ride is best done with corner balancing and alignment.

You can drop the puppy to the floor if you re-index the adjusters. BUT it ride and corner like Bob's truck.......Oi.....

Like that's a bad thing.

Gud fer throwing bodies out on a corner.....

Just support the car under both front torsion tube covers and unscrew your adjustment bolt,then pop off the caps and reinstall them with the threaded part facing down.Afterwards screw your adjusters back in and it should give you more range for your lowering task !

Cheers
Phil

Thanks all for the replies.

Phil- If it's as simple as just re-indexing the adjustment caps, then that's great. I wanted some positive reassurance before removing the caps, though. It also gave me some time in the afternoon to clean the car for the first time in 6 months. She had quite a nice layer of mold all over the paint from sitting under a tree.

Would this not mean the car's height from the ground would be lower, though?

Not arguing, just wanting to better understand. SmileWavy

No because your car is still supported at the torsion tube covers ... all you're doing is reindexing the caps to give you more range.You can reach all that by under the car,just jack it high enough for access and you can do everything with the wheels on .

Cheers
Phil

Sounds great. Any advice for getting the caps off if they're stuck on?

Been doing some more searching and reading. I came across this:


It appears that the adjustment bolt is meant to run through the arm of the TB cap, and I imagine the turning of the bolt in either direction will cause the cap to 'ride' up and down. If this is the case, should the adjustment bolt be in constant contact with the stop? On my car, the bolts don't even make contact with the stop. If I turn the bolts to run them through, they get extremely tight and don't budge.

I guess I'll have to get the caps off and try to run the bolt through them off the car. I have a sneaking suspicion the caps may need to be re-tapped due to cross-threading.

What year is your car? Some US models had a spacer (doughnut) to raise the car for bumper regulations around 1976.

Car is a '77. ROW (Japanese, specifically) vehicle.

Yes and yes.
To remove the "caps" you need to jack up the car, remove the adjustment bots, then pry off the caps. You can then re-index them on the end of the torsion bars.
While in there it is a good idea to pull out the torsion bars and check to make sure they are not rubbing. This is common on older cars when the front a-arm bushings wear.

Remove adjustment bolts, pry off caps, check threading on caps and bolts (see my comment above about cross threading), replace caps on end of TBs with the arm facing downward, screw in bolt until the caps have rotated to the point of positioning the front end at the proper height.

Seems simple enough. Of course, theoretical processes aren't ever as simple as actual processes...

Question: If the adjustment bolt it meant to stay 'stationary' and in constant contact with the stop above the cap, how is it held in place? Is it possible that the cap or TB on my car is seized, not allowing the cap to move?

When you jack up the car the tension on the adjustment screw will be released. The end of the screw is not held in place, it is only forced against the upper part of the "bracket" by the cars weight.
Jack up the car and you will notice the tension on the adjustment screw is released.
This should allow you to unscrew the adjusting screw which looks jammed in place now.

It looks like the adjustment bolt hex head on yours is not through the access port like in Tony's picture.

Something is wrong. Jammed like trackrash says, maybe? The torsion bar can't spin with the adjustment bolt head hitting the bottom of the bracket rather than going through the hole.

Is that what I am seeing? Maybe the head of the bolt can't bee seen because of the picture angle?

Sorry - I did not see this before I posted my comment.

I need to just step away. :-)

Carry on.

What is the recommended tool/angle/procedure for prying off these TB caps? Mine seem pretty happy sitting where they are, despite soaking in PB Blaster.