3.2 charging system

[upwardr]

Ok, this is the story. Bought a 89 that came with a dead battery, runs fine with a boost and when driving home she stalled at a stop sign(driver screw up)but the battery was dead dead, would not even turn on radio. I suspected battery toast so put in a nice odessy started right up runs great for a week. Today I left key on and drained battery. Put on charger 5 minutes good to go. Car fired up and drove home no problems but at home battery was again dead dead.

So, battery shows 12 volts on digital voltmeter, when running still shows 12 volts not 13/14 as expected.

What would be problem voltage regulator or alt or both? If I charge the Odessy back up to 100% will probably last another week.

[Joe Bob]

First off, never use the alternator to charge a flat battery. Use a plug in style charger.

A fully charged battery is 12.5 v or above.
13 at idle and 13.5 - 14.2 at 2500 rpms.

Does the dash light up prior to staring the car and go off after starting?

[T77911S]

if the alt light works, go have the charging system tested after charging the battery. there are places that will do it for free around here.
you can also clean all the major connections. dont forget grounds and the ground strap from tranny to body
if the alt or reg is bad, pull the alt and have it rebuilt/repaired

[upwardr]

Funny thing Joe, I went out and checked if the light came on and when I turned the key to on the oil light(upper light) came on but not the gen light. I turned the key to start the engine and as the starter engaged the gen light came on and as the engine started it then went out.

I shut it down and repeated same thing.

Battery is currently being charged on trickle.
So if the Alt is gone do I get it rebuilt and get new voltage regulator?

[Joe Bob]

Trickle chargers are slow and steady and good for maintaining for inactivity periods of vehicle storage but are S L O W. With our rides it's best to use the 2 speed, big as a bus, analog Sears chargers. Take the battery OUT of the car. ALSO.....a big WARNING.....do not mistake positive and negative terminals.....crap happens that you will NOT like if you do this. Batteries have terminals in different locations.

As to the alternator light and the oil light, make sure you are not confusing them. A lot of stuff German is not really evident and they don't think like Americans do. Especially English cars......anyways, trust but verify. If not already in your library get a manual....Bentley is the better one......R E A D it. Don't just have it.

Another thing POs, (previous owners).....never trust them they are evil. They do stupid things. A DAPO is a dumass PO. A current owner can also be a DA, just read some of the posts here....

Alternators in the 3.2 are most likely to have an internal voltage regulator. Again, most likely but you never know what a PO has done.

The jumping and running with a flat/dead battery could have damaged the internals of your alternator. Besides having chargers.....it is a good idea to have a Digital Volt Meter. A DVM can be had cheaply off Flea Bay. A Fluke is the schizzle. You most likely will never use all of it's functions but they are a built like a Brick......like the Volvo was, before Ford screwed them up.

Gauges.....VDO is NOT God. The were the lowest bidder. Consider pulling the clock and replacing it with a combo volt meter and head temp.......the clocks suck anyways and you have plenty of other sources of time keeping.....wrist, phone in dash radio.......

Be advised, Alternator remans, basically suck. Again....low bidders. The fix the basics, slap paint on them and sell them to schmucks.

IF after verification that the alt/vr is kaput, use a local shop to rebuild your unit. BECAUSE if it goes kaput again, you can go pound on the guy as opposed to some zit faced computer jockey that will go back and dust off another reman and say "oops, try this one"......labor, is not covered under warranty. It's your dime and since these things are buried inside your engine, it can get expensive or time consuming.

Another reason is that alternatos vary and the on you have NOW fits.....run a search and there are tons of kvetches from posters about "I bought this off eBay and it's not the same" or "I went to Manny, Moe and Julio's, traded my old one in and..."....again, this a German designed vehicle and they don't think the same.

The alt is a PITA to get out as opposed to a Ford/Chevy V8 or a Japanese Camry. Some shops can test an alt while in the car, you have to look to find one that still does. Again, trust but verify......don't throw parts at a car, the $$$ can add up fast.

Another alt/vr stupid pet trick is that other components will start acting wonky. The radio, the tach and other things will bounce around and act like my ex wife after a redhead dye job.

A 911 can be real fun but has quirks. Learn about them and she can be your best friend. The learning curve can be long and twisty.....if something doesn't look, sound right or you don't understand it. Ask.....but remember the advice is free, trust but verify. Also.....the Bentley has some errors and they won't admit it......scratch your head on the stuff.

Good luck.

[larrym]

fwiw - 3.2 bosch alternators are infamous for only lasting 30K miles or so - and yes they are internally regulated

on my gauge (from an '80 SC) the top lite is green is oil pressure, the bottom lite is red is alternator

if that alternator bulb is burned out - the alternator field won't excite, and thus won't charge

regarding p.o. issues - tell us what the casting number on top of your fan housing is - if 930---- it is correct,

if 901----- it is from an earlier model (yes a 901 housing with earlier alternator will fit on a 3.2 ((I have one on a 3.2 right now for testing))- but not vice versa)

.

[upwardr]

My gen light comes on only after the starter engages then quickly goes out when engine starts. Will check the numbers in the morn.
Thanks for the help.

[S2GART]

Your alternator is most likely shot. The voltage regulator is essentially a limiter. It prevents more than 14.5 volts from going to the battery. So if your meter reads more than 14.5 at any rpm, the VR is bad. Your problem is not enough volts are getting to battery to replenish what the car used/is using.

I agree with the recommendation of having a local outfit rebuild it.

[upwardr]

With a digital volt meter I only get a 12volt with the engine running with gen light off.
Guess I know what I'm doing this weekend.

[upwardr]

Got a shop to check charging system, yes it's official alt is toast.

Battery check out at 12.8 volts sitting, star the car and drops to 11.8 to 12.

[upwardr]

My altenator is in getting reborn and while I waited thought I should clean up the shroud a bit.

What I found was the shroud that holds the alternator has cracks in 3 of the 4 vanes that run front he outside, also a boss near 10 o'clock has a crack

Has anyone seen this happen. One of the vanes is crack inboard and outboard.
Guess I need to find a new one.

[kidrock]

I wouldn't re-install that. I don't know what is available in Canada, but there is a good resource for used parts near you in the States near the Eastern Seaboard. Look for Weekend Rides LLC and talk to Rick, he'll have what you need at a reasonable rate. I am not affiliated, only a previously satisfied customer.