Shift Coupler -- New Bushings v. New Unit

[scottb]

I'm going to install a factory short shift kit, and replace the various shifter bushings while I'm in the area. I've read the threads about replacing the coupler bushings, and it seems the most difficult part is getting the pin out. The threads also stress the importance of marking the coupler before taking it out so as to ensure alignment when it is replaced. So, my question is this:

Assuming dollars are not an issue (they are, but assume they're not for now), would I be better off replacing the entire coupler rather than just the bushings?

The reason I ask the question is that if it is important to mark the old coupler to ensure alignment when it goes back in, it seems to me putting a new one in, without it having been marked, is going to be difficult and only invites problems.

Any thoughts, comments?

Thanks much.

[Early_S_Man]

Scott,

The 'big' issue with replacing the coupler bushings is whether or not you tend to break light alloy castings when having to use force to disassemble things. Some people, rarely, have cracked the housing when attempting to remove the pin. I'm quite sure that over 90% of the Pelicanheads have done this without problems ... a lot of cursing, perhaps, but no need to order a new coupler, in the end ...

I say ... just replace the bushings!

[HawgRyder]

I vote for just the bushings...
I made mine out of Delrin and pressed the old pin out and the new bushings and re-lubed pin in.
Cost....$0.00
Time 30 minutes.
Result....nice crisp feel to the shifter.
Bob

[tmctguer]

go for the bushings. it does take a little niggling to get in, but spend the money you save on the whole coupling on a 6 pack.

[Bill Douglas]

My vote is just the bushings. The bushings from PP are particuarly good as they don't have the small amount of free movement that the OEM ones do. And it's about the easiest job I've done on the 911

Mark the shaft and coupler before you remove it to make it easy to refit.

[Jim Sims]

I've attempted to rebuild three of these shift couplers now. Two were a "piece of cake"; the third had the pin so firmly installed into the center fitting that the cast light alloy outer fitting broke while using a hydraulic shop press to press out the pin. This was despite careful support of the center fitting during the pressing operation; after the outer fitting broke I reset the press and pushed out the pin from the center fitting. The 20-ton press I was using was really up to load when that pin finally started moving. When the replacement shift coupling (OEM Porsche) arrived it had the opposite problem; the pin in the center fitting was so loose it fell out! It was sent back and a proper replacement was supplied. I've found that marking the shift coupling prior to removal was not very useful or needed. I just left the tranmission in a known gear (1st or 2nd) and then followed the Pelican tech article or Haynes shop manual installation and readjustment procedure. They'll worked just fine; no nicking of 5th or other problems. In one instance the driver later wanted the fore/aft position of shifter readjusted but that's all. If you're handy and have a bench vise or a shop press just install new bushings; if you break the coupler then order a new coupler. Cheers, Jim

[scottb]

Interesting to know that PP's bushings are better than the OEM bushings. For $16 (plus shipping) I can't go wrong trying to replace the bushings. Worst case scenario is that I end up buying a coupler anyway. Best case scenario is that I get the satisfaction of doing the work myself and have enough left over to take tmctguer's suggestion and buy myself a six-pack of something cold.

My thanks to all of you who chimed in....the parts are on order and my next weekend project awaits!