Congrats on your new ride and nice job on the repair work. Interesting post, keep us updated.

Thanks for the confirmation about the electrical connectors. I thought that was the only way to get them loose, but I wanted to make sure there wasn’t an easier way.

I made more good progress on Friday, but didn’t have time to report my progress because we were at the Hilton Head Motoring Festival Concours this past weekend. Lots of very cool Porsches at the event.

Back to the progress. I disconnected the throttle linkage on the driver's side of the transmission. I sprayed some Kroil on the ball and socket joint and had no issues popping it free.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383596015.jpg

I just wedged a screw driver between the lever and the bracket and it popped right out.

I then secured the linkage above the lever so it is not damaged when the transmission is lowered.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383597100.jpg

Next I removed the cruise control bracket where it attached to the throttle. For some reason, I didn’t get a good photo of this step and it took me a little while to figure this one out. There are two screws that hold the bracket to the throttle, but only one of them is visible. The visible screw is on the left side where the red circle is on the picture.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383596672.jpg

If you feel around this area, you find the second screw. Once the screws are undone, pull the cable out of the bracket and secure it is a safe location. Also try not to drop one the screws. I lost one of them, but figured I will find it when the motor comes down.

Now on to the CV axles. I feared that these might fight me since there were 12 bolts that need to be loosened. Luckily, the fight didn’t materialize. I used the appropriate hex socket with a long extension. With this set-up, you can work in the wheel well and aren’t cramped for space.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383596930.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383596956.jpg

I would set the parking brake loosen the top two bolts, release the parking break, rotate the hub and repeat. This method worked well.

I forgot to mention this little tidbit earlier. I kept hitting my head on the engine cover spring/release, whatever you call it. At only took me twice before I turned my attention to this problem. I went for the easy solution and took the tennis ball off the handle of my floor jack and covered. At least I am a quick learned and it only took 2 head hits.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383597737.jpg

On to the electrical connections. As was mentioned earlier in this thread, the thin metal clip that holds the connectors in place needs to be moved to pull the connector off. I did not fully remove the clip, but was able to rotate them about 45 degrees so they cleared the ears on the female side of the connector.

I disconnected the electrical connections at the red circles (Connectors #1-7).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383597611.jpg

I labeled all the connections on both the male and female side and covered them with tape.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383597668.jpg

There is another connector on the driver's side near the fire wall (# 8)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383597905.jpg

This connector just pulls apart. You can see the two sides starting to separate.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383597941.jpg

There are several connections behind this panel on the driver's side. Remove the two wing nuts and remove the panel.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383597999.jpg

Here is connection #9. This connecter just pulls apart and is the same type as #8. I used a small screw driver to coax them apart.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383598100.jpg

Pull the wire free of the bracket.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383598141.jpg

Next disconnect the bundle of ground wires on the driver's side (#10).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383598198.jpg

Next on to the O2 sensor, which appears to have 2 connections (#11 and #12)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383598311.jpg

The bracket on the top connection is broken on my car, but you just squeeze the ears on the connector and pull them apart. The bottom round connector just pulls apart.

Finally, I disconnected the wire from the coil to the distributor (#13). Remove the cover from the coil. There is a plastic snap that you can just pry apart.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383598429.jpg

And removed the wire.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383598478.jpg

I want to go back and double check to see if I missed any connections, but please chime in if it is obvious to you I missed something.

Next up....fuel lines. I have no idea how many fuel lines need to be disconnected, but I found two. It looks like I got all of them, but once again, let me know if I missed something.

First I disconnected the connection on top of the fuel filter. Apparently, I forgot a picture of this step. This is the connection on to of the silver canister on the driver's side seen in this picture. There is a yellow balloon on both the opening on the canister and the end of the fuel line.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383599000.jpg

The second line I found was on the driver's side and has black coiled spring looking thing covering it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383599130.jpg

I would suggest getting a plastic cup and putting it under the end of the now loose fuel line and lower it in the engine bay. The lower you take it, the more fuel will drain out of the line. I would rather get the fuel out in a controlled manner than having it spill all over me later.

Well, that brings me up to where is is at the moment. I think the only things I have left to do is remove the speedo sensor, breather hoses, finish removing the CV joints (they are only finger tight at the moment) and the throttle linkage between the transmission and throttle. It appears I might could wait until the motor is removed for the throttle linkage, but I will have to take another look.

Hopefully, I will have some more time tonight. More to come.....:)

Good progress - yes, it's just those two fuel connections. The supply to the top of the filter, and the return to the tank (with the coil around it.)

You can indeed leave the linkage between the transmission and throttle in place during the drop.

Keep-em coming!
GK

I was back at it for a little while last night. I disconnected the speedometer sensor on the passenger side of the transmission. A single bolt secures a metal tab that holds the sensor in place.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383670943.jpg

Loosen the bolt and swing the metal tab out of the way and pull the sensor loose. The + and - labeling are just some marks I made so I could tell which side was facing out. I had read that the sensor will go in both ways, but on the 3.2, it appears it will only go in one way.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383671046.jpg

You will also need to pull the wire free from another metal tab that holds the wire next to the transmission. If you follow the wire, you will find it. I then secured the sensor out of the way so it is not damaged when the transmission is dropped.

Next up was the grounding strap on the passenger side of the transmission. It is held in place with a single bolt. This picture is looking toward the front of the car.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383671347.jpg

I accessed the bolt with an extension over the top of the cross member. The picture will make more sense when you see the location in person.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383671430.jpg

I then disconnected some (hopefully all) of the oil breather hoses.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383671632.jpg

I found two more breather hoses on the front side of the dip stick tube, but they didn't photo well.

I was going back to make sure everything was disconnected and it appears that this lines(s) also needs to be disconnected.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383671813.jpg

They are in the area of the fuel lines, but I have no idea what they are. There was a small hose that was cloth feeling that I also disconnected since I could not get the hoses apart closer to the motor. What are these lines?

Getting very close now. I have one or two more loose ends and I think the moment of truth will be here.

When I go to drop the motor, are there any special precautions that I need to take with the shift linkage? I am referring to the part that sticks out of the transmission that was disconnected under the panel in the back seat floor. My plan is to have the car level and drop the motor to the ground and then lift the car off the motor. I don't want to bend the shaft while the motor is lowered.

I have been busy and have not had time to update this thread, but I have been moving forward. Tuesday, I disconnected the axles from the transmission and secured them out of the way with zip ties. I also ran two zip ties through holes on the CV joints to help hold everything together and then taped zip lock bags over the ends to keep grease from getting on everything and to keep dirt from getting in.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383856343.jpg

Next up was working on my platform that the motor will rest on when lowered. I have a couple of floor jacks and a HF ATV jack that going to be used to lower the motor. I screwed (2) 1/2" sheets of plywood together to make a solid foundation to sit on the forks of the ATV jack. The plywood is appriximately 24" square. I then jacked the plywood up to the underneath side of the motor and found some scrap boards that will carry the weight of the motor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383856569.jpg

I was going to screw these support boards to the plywood, but decided it would be better to be able to adjust. The weight of the motor will sit on the heat exchangers and the center backbone of the motor.

I looked back at all the how-to's and looked around the engine compartment one final time before I hung it up for the night and prepared for dropping the motor Wednesday night.

Last night was the moment of truth. The car is currently on jack stands and sitting basically level. I placed my smaller floor jack under the transmission and jacked it up so it would not drop when I loosened the transmission mounts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383856867.jpg

Next, I placed the ATV jack under the motor with my wooden blocks in the appropriate places.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383856921.jpg

I then loosened the transmission and engine mounts so all the weight was resting on the jacks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383856970.jpg

It was then a matter of slowly lower, checking everywhere, and continuing to lower. I was concerned about the shift linkage that sticks out of the front of the transmission, but this was never an issue. As I lowered the motor, my wife kept an eye on the shaft from inside the car. I was eventually able to keep lowering the motor and pulling it rearward until the shaft cleared the hole in the body.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383857219.jpg

Here is how is stands at the moment. The motor is sitting on the ground on the jacks. :cool:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383857238.jpg

I had no issues and surprised myself that I had actually disconnected all the hoses, electrical connectors, etc. We went slowly double checking everything every couple of inches.

Tonight the car is going to magically rise off the motor to set it free.

OK, now just jack the car body up (a lot) to be able to pull that drive-train out.

Hard part is done, Nice job!

I've got some large jack stands and floor jacks, so I am hoping it all goes as planned. The plan is to jack up one side then the other and keep raising it until it looks high enough. I will then lower the front to the ground and pull the motor out. In theory....nothing to it.

GREAT thread. The narrative, the detail, and photos. Well done.
This is how all DIY's should be.
There's just too much of a "It's easy, just a few bolts" mentality,
when in reality, it's NEVER that simple.

I love it when a plan comes together! Last night was the grand finale to get the car off the motor. There was no drama and everything went just as I had planned.

I used 2 large floor jacks (one would do, but it was easy to have one on either side of the car), (2) 12 ton jack stands and (2) 3 ton jack stands. I put the 12 ton stands (these things are monsters) on the rear torsen bars, the smaller ones under the front and slowly raised one side.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383920055.jpg

I would raise one side a couple of inches, set the car on the jack stands and then go to the other side and repeat until I thought the car was high enough so that when I lowered the nose, the rear bumper would clear the motor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383920180.jpg

I completely forgot to measure how high the torsion bars were off the ground to allow enough clearance, but I think it was 6 notches up on the 12 ton stands. Once we got this height, we put a floor jack under each side of the front and slowly lowered the front of the car to the ground.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383920349.jpg

From there, it was just a matter of pulling the motor out from under the car. There was no need to remove the rear bumper or the blower assembly from the motor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383920434.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383920454.jpg

And now the engine drop family photo.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383920493.jpg

I have since lowered the rear of the car back down to a safer level for the continued work. Next up is to split the motor and transmission and give everything a good cleaning. I'm not looking to go nuts with dressing up the motor, but I would like it to be clean enough so that it looks presentable and isn't nasty to work on.

Way to go! Safe, methodical, no drama, just the way it should be. Have fun cleaning - the cleaner you get the power train the less chance you have of dirt falling into places where it could do bad things. Looking forward to seeing more progress!

...I'm totally envious of all that garage space you've got there.

GK

It may just be the picture but it looks like those are the wrong type of bolt and the threads are worn off where the bolt contacts the bearing surface. Should be a Grade 8 or better bolt with the unthreaded portion inside the arm and drop link.

I could be wrong though! :D

Thankyou for this excellent write-up! I am about to tackle a similar 3.2 engine drop and am also using a HF ATV jack. I was hoping that the wooden platform could be designed such that the transmission would not need an additional jack to support it, though. I'm thinking that if I remove the muffler, the wooden platform can go a little deeper and hold the tranny up?

I have finally gotten some time to update this thread. To answer a couple of questions:

GaryR- The bolt in the picture looks like the threads have worn off where it passes through the drop link. I did look closer at it in person and the bolt is only threaded in the bottom half. The shank never had any threads cut in it. Thanks for pointing that out.

Ferrino- You might be able to build a platform that will support the transmission, but I am not sure how stable it would be. Part of the problem is that handle of the HF jack will contact the bumper and can only go so far under the car. I suppose you could take the handle off the jack. Here is a picture of the motor (with the muffler installed) as far back on the jack as it will go.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384269537.jpg

Even with the exhaust removed and the motor moved all the way back, I don't think any of the transmission would be on the jack. My concern would be that when you unbolted the transmission mount bolts, the transmission would drop and the motor would tilt forward and damage the shift linkage that sticks out of the front of the transmission. Someone with more experience than me might chime in since I imagine it has been done with only the the ATV jack.

I am loving the garage space. The house is elevated, so we have the advantage of being able to have a garage that is the size of the footprint of our house. We recently expanded the garage incorporating some covered patio space into the garage. The new space made this project possible.

Now to catch up to where the car stands today.

Friday was spent separating the transmission and motor. I did not disconnect the throttle linkage between the transmission and throttle body prior to the engine drop. This was a smart decision. First you need to disconnect the rod on the transmission.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384270145.jpg

There is a cotter pin that holds the arm on the shaft. Remove this pin and the lever slides off the bracket.

Disconnecting the other end gave me a little trouble. It is a ball and socket type connection and appears to just pop loose. However, there is a small retaining clip that holds the ball in the socket.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384270253.jpg

If you look closely, you will see that there is a clip that circles the throttle linkage and there is a loop at the end. If you use a pick, the clip will pop off the linkage and you can pull it out of the socket.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384270350.jpg

Next up, you will need to remove the back-up wire.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384270524.jpg

I first tried to unscrew the connection, but realized that I would break the wire before it unscrewed all the way. If you pull the rubber protector off, you will see the two wires.

The silver connectors on the wires will pull out of the yellow thing with the decal on it. I used a screw driver between the collar on the silver connector and the yellow plastic and rotated the screw driver. The wires came loose easily.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384270602.jpg

Next up was to remove the transmission. There are 4 nuts that hold it to the motor. Two are circled in red and the other two are in the same places, but on the bottom.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384270754.jpg

The nut on the starter is an hex head nut. My socket was too long to fit, so I had to go buy one of these.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384270820.jpg

Once all the nuts are off, you can separate the two. I had to adjust the jacks, so that the two were level, but they came apart with no issues.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384270932.jpg

And here it is on a furniture dolly, which works great. Looks like I have some cleaning in my future.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384271022.jpg

There is a long 10mm allen socket available that reaches past the starter, I would add one to your toolbox as if you ever need to swap starters with the engine in the car you will be so happy you did.... :D

You can make one with a welder, regular long 10mm allen with the 90 deg. angle cut off, and a 10mm socket also..