I agree, though they are a PITA to sandblast in a cabinet. I did mine, shot them with epoxy primer (had some kicking around), then black enamel.. held up great.

I hadn't really thought about blasting the tins. My plan was to knock the rust off with a wire wheel or brush and rattle can them. I'll have to check around to see if I can find access to a blasting equipment, but will probably just clean them up as best I can and give them a fresh coat of paint.

Did you guys use regular paint or high temp? Any I don't know how hot the tin above the exhaust gets.

Regular Rustoleum enamel will work fine, satin or semi-gloss finish. If you can, put a rust inhibiting primer over your wire brushed areas and the paint will last a lot longer..

I did the same on mine. jmills, hopefully, you have a friend with a cabinet that you can use. Fair warning, though, be sure to primer them ASAP after the blast, or you will get some flash-over rust. Also, I am convinced it is the primer that evens out the look. And if you do wire brush, be sure to follow Gary's advice and prime.

Keep up the great work. This is an awesome thread.

Did the records include an eviction notice for the mouse family? :D

Great progress...looking good!

Awesome thread!
 

Man, what great info for work that I know is coming some day. Never seen more detail in the description of a complicated process!

I'm subscribing!

Chris
'82 Targa

Nice work you're doing here...

I stripped all my tin with some home depot gel - paint came right off. I used VHT satin black just cause I had some from other engine paint projects. For the more seriously rusted pieces of tin I went the POR-15 route.

Thanks for the paint tips.

I didn't have much time last night, but did make some good progress. I biggest progress was done from the couch ordering a bunch of goodies from our host.

I also made some actual headway on the motor itself. I was able to remove the flywheel, which I was a little nervous about. I had been spraying the bolts with Kroil for about a week and would also hit them with a hammer from time to time. I bought a set of triple square impact sockets hoping that my rechargeable impact wrench would do the job.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384982952.jpg

The first two bolts came out with no issue, but my impact wrench had not been charged in about a month. A full charge knocked several more free. I had three bolts that were stubborn, but persistence with the impact wrench was the trick. I would attack one bolt at a time with a fresh battery. I alternated between a quick burst of tightening followed by a long loosening hit. I had to recharge the batteries several times before I got them all loose. I figured I only had a couple of seconds of 100% juice.

I was not surprised to see that the flywheel seal had been leaking. Yuck!!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384983176.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384983207.jpg

What advice do you guys have with the flywheel? The books say to resurface if necessary, but I have no idea what I am looking for. I planned to clean the surface, but how do I know if it needs resurfacing?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384983297.jpg

Looks like more cleaning in the future tonight. I think I am at a point where I am not going to take stuff apart any further except to replace o-rings and gaskets. Ah yes....eau de brake cleaner.

Oh yea, the pilot bearing bolts are also loose. These were a nice surprise and came loose with a regular socket wrench and little effort.

I had a little time to clean last night. Too bad this area is going to be completely covered. Oh well, at least I will know it is clean.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385038434.jpg

New distributor cap, rotor and plugs on order, so those parts will be new.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385038493.jpg

The cam lines are to be replaced, so I haven't worried about cleaning them up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385038537.jpg

I also broke loose the engine oil cooler nuts, so that is one less possible stuck bolt I have to worry about. Luckily, they came loose with no issues. I'll probably be cleaning more tonight since my parts won't be here for a couple of days.

Joe - do yourself a favor and spend a little extra and get the Elrin rear main seal.. Whatever you do avoid the Victor Reinz, they caused my shop (and me) mucho problems.

Thanks for the heads-up. I think I ordered the one you recommend. Looking at the Pelican parts catalog, it appears that the Victor Reinz seal is for the '74-'77 years. Since mine is an '84, it didn't come up as an option.

Joe - How are you feeling after all this great work? Are you getting tired yet?

I am definitely getting tired of cleaning, but am looking forward to replacing gaskets and such. I should have some good bonding time tonight and may change up the pace a little and work on the tins. At least I will be working at a work bench instead of sitting on a step stool.

BTW, do any of you guys have any tips on getting the reference sensors out of the bracket? I am referring to the two senders that are right at the flywheel. The speed sender pulled right out of the tube, but the TDC sensor is firmly bonded to the bracket. I haven't gotten too aggressive with it....yet. It is damaged, so I am not concerned about it's safe removal.

Actually, what I miss most is driving the car. It is getting lots of love, but it just looks sad sitting with it's rear end on jack stands. :(

FWIW a 3-4' long steel pipe slipped over a 1/2" breaker bar will gently get almost any bolt started. Impact on some of these and moreso on rusty old bolts seems to go breaking stuff, with the pipe you can "feel" it.

I thought about the breaker bar, but my fear was the socket slipping out of the bolt and stripping the bolt head. I put my big breaker bar with the socket to test and it was hard to hold the socket square to the bolt. I didn't see anything good happening there, so I didn't even try.

If the bolts were rusty, I probably would not have hit them with the impact wrench. I think these were the first bolts that got the impact treatment in the course of this project.

I know what you mean, my pre-reading made me nervous enough about those bolts that I ordered a brand new snap-on socket just for them.

Awesome documentation! :)

It reminds me so much of the '86 engine and transmission I bought. Grease and oil everywhere. Cleaning seemed like it would never end.
I don't know if you have looked into it, but if you have the original single wire CHT sensor it is a good idea to change it to the later 2 wire sensor while the engine is out.
The flywheel seal should not be set too deep when you change it. First time I did it, I set it too deep and it leaked. Second time I left it slightly proud and it sealed great.
It would probably be a good time to change the seals on the engine oil cooler, and there is a small area of the case near the bottom of the cooler that gets a little JB Weld due to a thin casting. Posts 290-293- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/772047-1st-drop-top-end-observations-questions-15.html
Also a couple of areas around the flywheel seal should get a spot of JB weld.

I already have the seals for the oil cooler, but didn't know about the JB weld in the casting. Thanks for that tip. :)

I think I have the single CHT sensor. I'll have to investigate that further.

I feel like a broken record. Last night....more cleaning. I cleaned up the flywheel and it looks a lot better. I don't feel any grooves, so I am tempted to leave well enough alone.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385130502.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385130540.jpg

Cleaned this up. At least this is one part that you will be able to see once the motor is back in the car.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385130644.jpg

These are the straps that hold the muffler and the heat exchangers together.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385130690.jpg

Cleaned up some more of the tins.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385130758.jpg

I then started working on getting the TDC sensor out of the bracket. After some unsuccessful attempts, I brought out the big guns.....the press. :eek:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385130902.jpg

I cut the bottom of the sensor off with my dremel so there would not be as much to push through the bracket. In the picture above, there is a larger socket on the bottom and a smaller one that the press is pushing on. Once I got the sensor out, there was still a piece that was fused to the wall of the bracket. I worked on the remaining part with a hammer and screwdriver and was able to break it free.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385131086.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385131106.jpg

The hole in the bracket is going to take some cleaning to allow a new sensor to slide through. No biggie and at least the sensor is out. I will say that the sensor is officially dead now.

I don't think I mentioned this before, but I have been using brake cleaner, scotch bright pads, tooth brushes, and an assortment of nylon, brass, and stainless brushes as my cleaning tools.