I also wanted to replace the distributor o-ring while I was at it. I don't think this is a common source for oil leaks, but easy enough to do at this point. You will first need to set the engine to top dead center. I used a 24mm socket on the alternator. Make sure you rotate the engine clockwise.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388421687.jpg

There are marks on the pulley every 120 degrees and a round black plug looking thing when the motor is at TDC. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture. There is also a notch on the distributor at TDC.

Rotate the engine until the rotor under the distributor cap is pointing to the notch on the distributor and the black dot on the pulley is lined up with the notch fan housing. The notch on the distributor is located in this area.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388422006.jpg

You are going through this trouble because when you remove the distributor from the motor, the rotor will easily spin and you could end up with the timing way off. You need a reference point to put is all back together correctly.

To remove the distributor, unscrew this nut and pull the entire distributor out of the motor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388422175.jpg

Replace the o-ring and reinstall with some oil on the new o-ring.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388422222.jpg

The distributor was a tight fit with the new o-ring, so I gently tightened the nut holding the dist. to seat it in it's hole. I wasn't in love with this idea, but I couldn't push it in by hand.

The rotor just pulls straight off and can only go back on in one direction.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388422340.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388422351.jpg

Here is everything back together and cleaned up.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388422680.jpg

Next up is the pilot bearing. The car is getting a new clutch, so I might as well replace this bearing while I am at it. There are 3 screws that hold the bearing in place. Remove these 3 screws.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388422824.jpg

The bearing will pull straight out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388422890.jpg

Grease the needle bearings, insert and screw it back in place.

Next up is the pilot bearing. The car is getting a new clutch, so I might as well replace this bearing while I am at it. There are 3 screws that hold the bearing in place. Remove these 3 screws.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388422824.jpg

The bearing will pull straight out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388422890.jpg

Grease the needle bearings, insert and screw it back in place.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388422952.jpg

The flywheel seal had been leaking for a long time and I think was the main reason for my clutch clatter. The seal is just pushed in place. I used a small pry bar and EVERY SO GENTLY pried the seal out. I did not like this method since I was prying against the engine parts, but it worked. You will have to slowly work your way around the seal prying it out a tiny bit at a time.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388423098.jpg

With all the oil on the seal, it came out pretty easy. Yuck!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388423129.jpg

Clean the area and insert the new seal. Use oil on the inner part of the seal. I used a rubber hammer to gently tap the seal in place. Make sure that it is going in straight. I have read to not push the seal back in flush or there is a chance it will leak. I left mine about 1mm from flush. This picture was before I pressed in completely in place.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388423589.jpg

The previous picture showing the new pilot bearing also shows the new seal.

I found a picture showing the rotor pointing toward the TDC mark on the distributor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388428983.jpg

and the crank pulley and fan housing notches/dot lined up at TDC.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388429029.jpg

Nice work Joe. One thing I would say is never put a metal tool and pry against a sealing surface. To remove the seals there is a notch that you can insert a screwdriver in (circled), bang it into the seal for grip, and the seal will pop right out with some leverage. Front crank seal is the same thing..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388431956.jpg

Several weeks ago, I started working on the guide tube on the transmission. I wanted to replace the o-ring and seal. I was able to finish that project this weekend. The guide tube is held in with 2 screws. I used an impact screwdriver and it loosened them up with no issues.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388431777.jpg


Next is to pull the guide tube free of the transmission. I used a rig like this and was able to pop the tube loose.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388431146.jpg

Replace the o-ring on the outside of the ring.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388431205.jpg

There is also a seal on the inside of the tube. I used an appropriate sized socket and tapped it out with a hammer. It didn't take too much force to get it free.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388431290.jpg

I did not oil the outside of the seal and there was no way that I was going to push it back in with my fingers. I made use of my press and SLOWLY and GENTLY pressed in in place.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388431391.jpg

I pressed the seal into the tube to that the seal lined up with the little lip inside the tube.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388431438.jpg

I then oiled up the o-ring and seal and installed the tube. I pushed it in by hand far enough so that I could reinstall the screws (loosely). With the screws installed, I knew the tube would be lined up and I would not have to twist it to line up the screw holes after it was installed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388431612.jpg

I then used a piece of PVC over the guide tube and gently hammered it in place being careful to push it in straight.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388431671.jpg

Most of the time this weekend was spent adjusting the valves, replacing the valve cover gaskets and cleaning the calve covers. There are a number of good how-to's on adjusting the valves, so I am not going to detail this process.

Here are a couple of links.
Pelican Technical Article: Valve Adjustment - 911 (1965-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89)

Pelican Technical Article: 911 Valve Adjustment Made Easy

Pelican Technical Article: 911 Valve Adjustment - The Backside Method

Instead, I'll just show a couple of pics along the way.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388432337.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388432350.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388432360.jpg

There was oil around all three studs at the bottom of the upper valve covers. My guess is that there was oil leaking from around here.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388432454.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388432484.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388432490.jpg

Using a razor blade, I cleaned the surfaces of both the valve covers and surface on the heads. There was a lot of build-up on the motor. I was not able to make it perfectly clean, but it was at least smooth when I can my finger across it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388432697.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388432704.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388432725.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388432765.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388433122.jpg

And all buttoned up. I torqued the new nuts to 6 ft-lbs using a cross pattern.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388432861.jpg

I also replaced the spark plugs while I was finishing up the valves. Nothing much to them other than making sure they have the correct gap. Bentley said .028-.032"

Gary-Thanks for the tip and I knew I shouldn't be prying against metal engine parts. I was extremely careful and no damage was done. I'll count myself lucky on this one.

As weather has permitted, I have been painting the tins. I just used rattle can Rust-oleum.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388496230.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388496255.jpg

And staying with painting.....while cleaning the oil out of the engine bay, we found that the paint was very thin. The paint was wiping off using just water and a rag. I really did not want to get into painting the engine bay, but I also didn't want areas with little paint. You can see the white areas where the paint was coming off as well as the required masking.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388496485.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388496500.jpg

I friend recommended Touch Up Paint and Accessories | AutomotiveTouchup for paint to match. You go online and select the year, make, model, and color car and for $20, you can get a rattle can of matching paint. I may put another coat on, but it is looking a lot better. The paint matches very well.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388496722.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388496737.jpg

deleted...duplicate post

I am starting to run out of things to do until my final order arrives, but I put the oil cooler back on last night.

The new seals with a little Dow 111. You can also see the thin casting area above the bottom seal has been reinforced. I also reinforced the thin area on the outside of the cooler.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388497081.jpg

My Harbor Freight hemostat worked great for putting the washers back on the bottom studs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388497227.jpg

And all installed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388497243.jpg

The thread is basically caught up to where the project currently stands. I have a couple projects half finished, but won't detail them until I can wrap them up.

I'm a little late but since you haven't put the engine back in yet... I always like to write the mileage & date on filters with a Sharpie. Saves you having to remember or dig up records when you can't.

HTH

Looking forward to "watching" it go back in.

I have never thought about making notes on the filter. Thanks for the tip.

The 3 photos showing how to unclip the spark plug holder sums up the level of detail that makes your style of documentation superior to any book.
Great work, great photos, and great details. Please keep up this level of detail.

Glad to offer something back to the community. You guys have helped me immensely with how-to's getting to this point, so hopefully this thread will help a fellow newby in the future. :)

I had a little time last night watching football, so I thought I would tackle the clutch. I have a new Sachs clutch kit, but need to assemble the pressure plate, throwout bearing, washers, etc. Having not previously read the directions on how to assemble all these parts, I was a little hesitant. Turns out it is a very simple job.

The best detailed directions are here Pelican Technical Article: Replacing and Adjusting the 911 Clutch - Page 1, but I'll throw in a couple of pictures.

Working on clean parts allowed me to move my work bench to the dining room table. :D

Here are all the parts in the clutch kit.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388757834.jpg

Sit the throw out bearing on the table as seen below and place the large washer over the collar of the bearing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388757902.jpg

Next place the spring washer over the collar as seen below.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388757943.jpg

Place the pressure plate over the throw out bearing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388757981.jpg

Now place rear ring over the throw out bearing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388758081.jpg

Finally, place the c-clip over the rear ring. With a little work, the clip will snap into place.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388758148.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388758162.jpg

I should have some new parts tomorrow. Stay tuned.

Doing a heck of a job Joe!

Thanks. It is very satisfying to see it starting to come back together.

I worked a little this weekend, but don't have much to show for it. No problems, but I am missing parts to wrap up a couple of projects. All parts are on order, but no UPS man yet.

I made a flywheel lock out of some scrap bar stock. It's now primed, but I don't have a picture with me. This tool should make it a lot easier to get accurate torque readings when installing the flywheel.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389041618.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389041504.jpg

The flywheel was just set in place to test the lock, but you can see that it has been resurfaced.

I cleaned the fan where it looks better. It's not a pretty as some of the powder coated ones, but good enough.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389041695.jpg

I friend suggested replacing the bolts holding the muffler. Sounds like a good idea in case I have to remove the muffler with the motor in the car. I also had nothing better to work on at the time.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389041893.jpg

BTW, is this a stock exhaust set-up? I would have thought that the '84 would have had a cat in this section of pipe.

The bolts were very rusted, so I figured they would just snap and I could punch them out. Only one snapped, which figures since this is one of the only times I would be content to break bolts. Oh well.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389041946.jpg

I'll replace with some better hardware, but these bolts will do until I can make a run to Lowe's.

I'm not sure how much work I will get done in the next couple of days since it is going to be cold in the garage. Those of us in the south don't do well with temperatures below freezing. :eek: