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Joe - if you have the time take off the fan and housing, ship them to me, and I will glass bead and Eastwood Diamond clearcoat them for you. Free. Just pay shipping both ways. If the aluminum is tarnished and uneven looking when blasted a nice couple coats of Eastwood Argent silver is perfect..
2014 Pay it forward moment. But you have to paint that pulley cover too.. JK! Send all three and i'll sandblast the cover, prime and paint that semi-gloss black too! |
Thanks for the offer, but I'm not too enthusiastic about taking any more parts off the motor at the moment. However, I'm sure it would look 100x better! :) I'll get back to you if I change my mind.
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I forgot about a finished task. I replaced the washer on the sensor that screws into the cover where the breather hose attaches. I forgot exactly what this sensor does. There really isn't anything to this, but thought I would mention it. All you have to do is unhook the wire, unscrew sensor, replace crush washer and reverse to re-install.
I am referring to the sensor circled in blue. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389045588.jpg The wire has a plastic clip holding it in place. It's obvious when you look at it closely. Use a small screwdriver and gently pry it and pull the wire off. I would recommend unhooking the wire prior to unscrewing the sensor to minimize the strain on the wire. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389045974.jpg Here is the sensor removed. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389046000.jpg Replace the washer and reinstall. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389046027.jpg |
I believe that is the low oil light, but someone better versed is welcome to correct me...
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That is more than a helping hand. Gary, you are a good man to offer this blasting and painting. That sensor looks like an oil temp sensor. Have you replaced the CHT-cylinder head temp sensor? |
I think that's a sensor for the heat blower in the engine bay.
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The CHT sensor is in the mail. I originally wasn't going to replace it, but read more than a couple of threads about the tendency of the one wire design to go bad. It falls in the "while I'm in there" category.
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Which oil cooler fan? The one in the nose?
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It's been a week since I last updated this thread and not much progress has been made. We have been very busy and are also headed to the track this coming weekend, so the track car took priority. However, I think I have all of the necessary parts needed to wrap up this project (I hope I didn't just jinx myself). I even had an hour or two last night to wrap up some tasks that had been started, but were waiting on parts.
Both of my cam oil lines were leaking, so they needed to be replace. There is a line on both sides of the car, but these pictures are on the driver's side. Loosen this fitting. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389717280.jpg As well as this banjo bolt (where my fingers are touching) and the connection circled in yellow. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389717392.jpg If you replace driver's side cam oil line, you will also need to replace the smaller metal tube that attaches to it (the yellow circled connection above). Porsche redesigned the lines and the old one will not match up with the new one without some serious bending. Here is the new metal line with new washers. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389717542.jpg And all finished with new washers at each connection. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389717847.jpg |
The passenger side is basically the same, but you don't need to replace the small metal tube if you replace the larger oil line.
While the passenger side cam oil line was removed, I figured I would also replace the washers on the oil pressure sending unit. There is a hollow threaded tube that attaches to the motor on one side and the cam oil line on the other. The oil pressure sending unit sits in the middle. You have to remove the tube to replace the washers. I was able to reach the tube/bolt with a wobble extension from this angle. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389718350.jpg Once this bolt is free, you will need to remove the wire connection at the top. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389718422.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389718442.jpg Now that the sender is free, put the block in a vice and unscrew the sender. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389718494.jpg All the parts associated with the sender. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389718548.jpg Replace all the washers and reinstall the OP sending unit and cam oil line. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389718662.jpg |
The final project last night was to replace the washer on the temperature sensor (???). It is in the same areas as the OP sending unit. The OP sending unit is removed in these pictures.
First remove the wire connection. It just slides off. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389718780.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389718793.jpg The sensor simply unscrews. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389718836.jpg I cleaned up the wiring connection while it was out. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389718874.jpg Replace the washer and reinstall. Last night, I also sprayed some clear coat on the newly painted engine bay. I figured it would make oil clean up easier in the future. A word of caution.....make sure you have good ventilation. I am getting very close to being ready to reinstall the motor, but work is going to be on hold until after the track this weekend. Hopefully next week will be a big one. :D |
Joe, I did not read every post carefully but I did not see any mention of the engine fuel lines.
If the fuel lines have never been replaced you REALLY need to replace them now. They are a known fire hazard. Please search the site for fuel line discussions. You REALLY really need to replace them it they are original. You are doing a great write up. Thanks for the great contribution to Pelican. |
Beautiful. Thank you for sharing this; it will be very useful when reassembly starts!
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Finally....finally...finally, I have had some time to work on the Targa. We have survived all the self-inflicted fun, including last weekend's DE and I have a couple of free weekends. As a side note, I got to instruct a student in a Porsche (944 S2) at the track. Since I drive a Miata, I normally don't get the Porsche students.
Anyway, back to the weekend's progress and I have a lot to report. If you remember back a couple of pages, one of the studs securing the oil thermostat stripped. As I said earlier, I used a jam nut and was able to remove the stud. I used the same method to install the new one. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390848582.jpg I tightened the two nuts together and used a wrench on the top nut to tighten the stud in place. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390848635.jpg Once the stud was in place, I was able to secure the oil thermostat in place. Next up was the flywheel. I thoroughly cleaned the face of the flywheel after it was resurfaced to make sure there was no oil still present and used my new handy dandy flywheel lock to hold the flywheel in place while I torqued the bolts. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390849300.jpg I made sure to slowly torque the bolts in a cross pattern. Next up was the clutch disk, second ring gear (I forgot it's official name), and pressure plate. Make sure to use the clutch tool to hold the clutch disk centered while you install the pp. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390848902.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390848925.jpg Torque the bolts in the same slow/cross pattern. Next up was new reference and speed sensors. I applied some grease to the rubber o-ring on the sensors so they would slide into the bracket easier. I have heard that if you twist the sensor when installing them, you can damage them. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390849151.jpg Now mount them to the motor and set the gap. I realized after I had mounted the sensors, that the rear tin mounts behind the bracket. You should wait until after the tin has been mounted to install the sensors. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390849076.jpg |
While I have everything apart, I figured I would replace the single wire CHT sensor. After some trial and error, I ended up cutting the wire on the old sensor and using a wrench to unscrew the old one.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390849624.jpg I then modified a deep well socket so that I could screw the new sensor in place. My new socket looks like a socket used to remove an O2 sensor. You sure can have a lot of fun with an angle grinder and a cut off wheel. :eek: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390849695.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390849720.jpg Next up was the oil level sender on the oil tank. My wife has already spent a lot of time cleaning this area prior to the picture. It was really nasty. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390849802.jpg You will need to disconnect the two electrical connectors. One of them simply comes free when you remove the nut. For the connector in the center, pull back the rubber cover and pull off the wire that connects with a spade type connector. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390849919.jpg The sensor is an odd shape and I wasn't sure that it will actually come out of the hole. With some fiddling, it will come out. If you are looking at the sensor from the wheel well, you will need to turn the face plate toward you (so it is facing forward) and work it out from that angle. Here is a picture of the sensor. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850096.jpg Install new cork gasket and reinstall the sensor. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850143.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850321.jpg I bought the correct size nuts and bolts and replace these rusty exhaust bolts. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850206.jpg |
Joe - you may want to hit the rust on that oil tank with some course sandpaper and spray it with some Rust Encapsulator and then apply some paint to protect it. Looks pretty heavily pitted on the edge below the plate.. You're doing GREAT!!
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nice work!
how did you make sure that no crumble fell into the oil tank from the old cork seal? Someone told me once about the kid-baloon-trick... |
Next we removed the paper and tape masking on the newly painted engine bay. It's not a complete and perfect paint job. We were just going for better and to cover the areas where the paint was very thin.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850440.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850456.jpg Now on to the transmission. This is a rewarding time since the failure of the roll pin that holds the clutch fork was the reason for starting this whole project. Here are all the parts associated with the clutch fork. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850538.jpg I used this part of the project as an excuse to but a new tool. I read that using a drift pin made specifically for roll pins made life a lot easier. Here is the drift pin and you can see the little nub on the end that holds it in place as you drive the pin in place. It worked like a charm. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850656.jpg I found that it was easier to get the pin started in the clutch fork on the work bench than in place. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850727.jpg Now put everything in place and drive the pin in place. Make sure to put the rubber washers on the top and bottom of the clutch fork. I also put some grease on the splines and in the tube prior to installation. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850779.jpg I noticed one of the little rubber 90's on the fuel system was worn. I am assuming it is a vacuum line. I don't think it was leaking, but might as well replace it now. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850868.jpg I soaked the new rubber elbow in hot water for a couple of minutes before installing and had no issues. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850910.jpg Next up....plug wire holders. These aren't difficult to reinstall, but are a little tedious and some are hard to reach. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390850970.jpg |
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