Broken throttle link

[k9handler]

Ok, I have purchased a new throttle link from Pelican...how exactly does this install? It seems like a simple task, just want to make sure I do this correctly since I have to repair the car at the port before I can drive it back here to Sembach.

This is the small 1" cylindar shaped link just after the firewall, and a small 4" linkage arm connects to it.

[GB83SC]

Bump,
Anybody?

[Early_S_Man]

H D,

I believe this is the article that explains the repair ...

http://www.pcasd.org/tech/tech_jul.shtml

[Jim Sims]

I've replaced this link. It is rather obvious how to do it once one is under the car. The most difficult issue is stretching the rubber boot that seals the fitting to the "firewall" over the new larger diameter fitting. The older fittings had only a rubber link and the newer fittings have a safety steel shell rolled over the rubber link to retain some sort of throttle control in the event the rubber fails. The steel shell increased the diameter and the boot can barely be stretched to fit; you may want to have a spare rubber boot on hand as the old one may be "shot". This boot helps keep water from the road out of the "tunnel". You will need small open end wrenches (the thin ignition type work best); I don't exactly recall the sizes but I believe you need 6 to 10 mm wrench sizes plus a pair of soft jaw pliers (or regular pliers or vice grips with rag padding). One has to hold the throttle links against turning with the pliers while you tighten down the lock nuts. Keep the socket end of the short link oriented so it will mate and snap on the bell crank. You will need to open the hatch behind the back seats to hold the longer throttle rod against turning. So you'll need a screw driver for that too plus a flashlight and tarp to lay on if you'll be doing this in a parking lot. Also a bit of grease to put in the socket at the end of the link before you snap it over the ball stud on the bell crank on the driver's side of the transmission. Cheers, Jim

[k9handler]

Thanks Jim,
You seem to have described the fix in pretty damn good detail.

[Wrecked944]

Jim Sims

H.D. is correct. That is another of your wonderful and helpful explanations. Serious question: Have you considered writing tech articles for Pelican, Excellence or, perhaps, a PCA publication? You've clearly got the gift. I keep a three ring binder on my workbench containing just your BBS postings sitting next to my shop manuals.

Thanks,

[Jim Sims]

Janus, Thanks for the compliment but my knowledge is small compared to others such as Early_S_Man or John Walker. I've only been at this hobby for a little over three years and have only done a limited number of repairs (I have rebuilt a yet to be run engine under the guidance of my mentor and rebuilt a 915 tranmission though). I depend on my Porsche mentor, the PCA technical reps and what I have read for my Porsche knowledge. Most of what I have done in the way of Porsche repairs is too narrow in scope (early and mid-year 911's) to support writing tech articles. Besides I've spent too much money on Porsche parts to buy a digital camera for at least a while. Jim

[k9handler]

Repair accomplished, pretty simple with the exception of the rubber boot. Thanks Jim

[hhkatch]

So a couple of questions - when do you consider this boot "shot" - my is very hard, non-pliable and not being very cooperative? Sounds like if I cut it away, I will need to replace it (I generally don't drive when the weather is bad, though!). If I do, I didn't see a part for it on the Pelican Parts website - any ideas? Is there a part on the Pelican website?

Also, you mentioned going in from the top via the rear seats to get at this. Currently, I have my 911 up on Jackstands - and can very easily get to much of this, but I can seem to manage getting the boot removed w/out damaging it. If I go in from the top, will I be able to get at it easier?

Any ideas or answers are appreciated!

Kind Regards,
Harry "The Running Fool" Katch
www.runningfool.org