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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Woodbine, Maryland USA
Posts: 251
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Pressure-fed tensioner install question
Hi all.
I'm in the middle of installing the pressure-fed tensioners on my 1972 2.4 liter "T" engine. I have removed the two upper 6mm studs from the left chain case and am preparing to drill out the holes with a 17/64 bit and retap to 8 X 1.25 mm for installation of the two 8 X 42 mm studs that came with the kit. However, before I go drilling holes in my engine, I was wondering if there is another acceptable, and less traumatic solution. Why not just use 6 X 48 mm hex head bolts and washers, threaded into the chain case, to secure the cover? Or, is there a 6 mm to 8 mm step-stud avaialable that could be threaded into the chain case? My question is this: has anyone employed a succesful alternative to drilling and tapping the chain case, when istalling these tensioners on an early engine? ------------------ John 1972 911T Coupe "S" pistons & Webers PCA- Potomac Region |
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09-04-2001, 09:07 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: TX USA
Posts: 9,804
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John,
You can just put in a longer 6 mm stud cut from a fully-threaded M6 bolt, 35mm to 45 mm long. You can use an oversized diameter washer and M6 nylock nut. You don't really have any way of guaranteed tapping that new M8 hole square with the chain case! ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa 1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler |
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09-04-2001, 09:30 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mill Valley, CA
Posts: 204
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I know this doesn't answer your question but, my kit came with the covers predrilled for my 72.I'm sure someone will have the answer your looking for.
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09-04-2001, 09:33 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
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"You can just put in a longer 6 mm stud cut from a fully-threaded M6 bolt, 35mm to 45 mm long. You can use an oversized diameter washer and M6 nylock nut."
That's what I did. I also added some silicone sealer under the large washer. An M6 set screw also works as it saves you a cut and the internal hex gives you another method of installing. Add some blue loctite to keep the stud from backing out. Sherwood Lee |
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09-04-2001, 10:51 AM
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Registered
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 1,182
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Ditto. I used a fully threaded length of stainless that I had sitting around. Works fine.
Your next question will be: why is the right hand size oil line not long enough (where the oil pressure sender is on the later cars). It can be a marginally frustrating install on our earlier cars! ------------------ '72 911 TE |
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09-04-2001, 02:07 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Woodbine, Maryland USA
Posts: 251
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Thanks guys! I was going to provisionally bolt on the new chain case cover and use it as a drill guide to keep my 17/64 bit and 8 X 1.25 mm tap square to the chain case. However, using an M6 bolt or M6 stud made from a bolt is a cleaner solution. I have located a metric hardware vendor who has M6 to M8 "step studs." The problem is, the step studs he has in stock are too short. The vendor is looking for longer step studs for me. I should know today if he can get them for me. If not, I'll use the M6 bolt/stud option.
On the matter of the right cam tower oil hose, I'm OK there. The Stoddard kit comes with a special longer hose for our early cars that have the oil pressure sender located in the front of the engine. ------------------ John 1972 911T Coupe "S" pistons & Webers PCA- Potomac Region |
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09-05-2001, 04:05 AM
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