![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ogden Valley area, UT
Posts: 1,048
|
Tach?: 3.2 backdate
looking for just a little additional info/confirmation on tach wiring issue:
1. installing a 3.2 into a '76. Using the original, rebuilt (by NHS! check out the pic below. This thing, as well as the rest of the gauges, is a work of art.) tach. ![]() ![]() 2. Have located the black/vio lead from the DME. 3. Have read in this very good mod thread Modification that this black/vio DME lead goes to the middle spade of the tach. For this mod thread, the author was installing his 3.2 into a '77, which I am assuming to be the same as my '76. 4. I have read (believe me, I have been using the "search" function for awhile this morning) that the tach signal is always driven by the black/vio lead. So, it seemed like I had all the info I needed to proceed. Until I started reviewing all the pictures (not very good, I know) I took while disassembling the car. In some of the pics, I see that my black/vio lead was located on the end spade of the tach. ![]() This spade is designated as “TD”. The middle and far end spade are label “+12V” & “-“. So I did a little more searching and have found a few other conversion threads, and confirm the tach is driven by the black/vio wire. My pics were confirmed by a few other midyear pics from other pelicans: ![]() ![]() My question is this: Should the original mod thread I referenced simply have stated that the black/vio DME lead goes to the spade on the tach that has the black/vio lead currently connected to it, i.e. the “TD” spade? In addition, that mod thread states that the black/vio DME lead is “spliced”. I understand that he made a jumper (green wire, b/c the DME lead is probably too short). Does this mean that the black/vio DME lead should be spliced into the existing black/vio lead, and then onto the tach spade, Or does the existing black/vio lead need to be replaced with the new DME lead? Thanks, ~Chris |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ogden Valley area, UT
Posts: 1,048
|
in that last sentence, maybe what I am asking is: "is there any reasons why the original black/vio tach lead needs to remain on the tack, or is the only black/vio lead needed to connect to the tach be the one coming from the DME?
(sneaky bump) |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ogden Valley area, UT
Posts: 1,048
|
bump still looking for a little confirmation on this.
~Chris |
||
![]() |
|
ROW '78 911 Targa
|
The tach signal is coming from the DME, so swap it out with the existing one if it will reach.
Splicing may have been a wire length issue. Tape off and label the old one. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ogden Valley area, UT
Posts: 1,048
|
hey timmy2, thanks for the reply.
So, the the new lead coming from the black/vio DME wire, will go to the end spade on the tach, the one shown in the pictures with the black/vio wire? |
||
![]() |
|
ROW '78 911 Targa
|
Quote:
If it doesn't work, try a 3.2 gauge.....
__________________
Dennis Euro 1978 SC Targa, SSI's, Dansk 2/1, PMO ITBs, Electric A/C Need a New Wiring Harness? PM or e-mail me. Search for "harnesses" in the classifieds. |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 3
|
The tach signal is coming from the DME, so swap it out with the existing one if it will reach.
![]() |
||
![]() |
|