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Throttle Linkage Rod
In the process of replacing the bushings for the throttle bellcrank that lives on top of the engine, under the intake manifold (Carrera 3.2 engine). The "pull rod" that connects the bellcrank to the throttle butterfly/valve: I had a pig of a time popping the "rod-end" off the ball on the end of the bellcrank lever. In the process, the "rod-end" was mangled and now has a lot of slop around the ball. Sadly this rod-end is not one of the replaceable ones that just threads onto the rod and the replacement rod is hideously expensive. Do you think I could just replicate the curve of the rod with some threaded rod and drop a threaded rod-end on the end? The stock piece seems to just have the rod-end welded onto the flat rod.
Here's a pic of the part I mean (stolen from someone else): ![]() |
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I would cut it, weld on a threaded piece and put a threaded end with new ball on with a lock nut. It will give you some adjustibility too!
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Gary R. |
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Carlos, CA US
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You mangled it because it probably had a small pin that retains the ball and that has to come out first. Just a guess.
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Porsche 2005 GT3, 2006 997S with bore-scoring Exotic: Ferrari F360F1 TDF, Ferrari 328 GTS Disposable Car: BMW 530xiT, 2008 Mini Cooper S Two-wheel art: Ducati 907IE, Ducati 851 |
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Gary - I was thinking of replacing the current rod-end and ball stud with a ball joint. i.e. cutting the ball stud off the bellcrank lever and drilling a hole for the ball-joint to go through. Something like this:
![]() Is that what you mean? Or are you talking about the part where the joint and ball are separate components? Yelcab - I'm familiar with the pin you refer to, but no, there wasn't one this one - just a very stubborn fit! |
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Ferrino -
I was saying to get a new socket (circled) that fits the existing ball, then get a 2" piece of threaded rod (and a nut) that fits it. Screw the rod in about 1/2 way, lay it against the original and cut the original off at the juncture. Then weld the threaded rod to the original piece. Now you have a new end, some adjustability to make it perfect, and can replace it easily should you drive another 200,000 miles.. ![]() ![]() And I just dismantled mine (87 3.2), it had no locking clip either.. just like my 3.0L..
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Gary R. Last edited by GaryR; 12-18-2013 at 11:02 AM.. |
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I see what you're saying Gary- preserving the original ball-stud on the lever. I just find the separate joint and ball arrangement really clumsy - having to force them apart ever time you want to separate the 2 components. It looks like a lot of people have bent linkages trying to pry apart old connections! I think the ball-joint with a locking nut is much cleaner. Thankyou for your feedback.
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
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Ferrino, I did precisely what you are asking about (replaced the original flat rod with a customized section of round rod with threaded ends that I put cup ends on) on my 87 930 and have not had any problems with it for over five years.
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