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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sammamish, WA, USA
Posts: 27
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Othen then the steering rack do I need to loosen anything else? I can lift the rack about 1/4 of an in but not enough to fit the spacers. What am I missing?
Thanks. ------------------ Carlo Redmond, WA 1988 911 Carrera 3.2 1990 964 Carrera 4 |
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Loosen the clamp on the input shaft, located inside the smugglers box. That shaft needs to slide in just a bit.
Then put a jack under the rack to get more muscle in the lifting. Don't forget to re-tighten that clamp! and put a dab of loctite on it too. |
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Sherwood, Oregon
Posts: 2,119
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I had the same problem. You did take the tires off ? Weight ...........
Becareful not to squeeze/cut the fuel lines if your pump is there. Your looking for leverage without damage. Crow bar with a 2*4 block. The trick is keeping the block in place. It works. You just have to hold your mouth right. Good Luck .......... Sorry, I didn't detach mine. Just losened the ends and removed the middle bolts. Just enough to get the spacers in. Therefore I had to "pry" the rack down enough to slide the spacers in. Took about 15 minutes after the pan was off and I figured out the 2*4 placement. ------------------ Cary Kutter 77 Euro Carrera w/3.2 74 914 2.0 ( base model ) PCA Region - Big Sky [This message has been edited by cary (edited 09-06-2001).] |
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: agoura hills, ca 91301
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Clark is right on! I had the same problem but by using a jack to lift the rack made the job 1000% easier.
With regard to the other post, yes! Loosen the clamp in the smuggler box. Avoid 'totally' loosening it. I had a problem tightening it back because of NO ROOM space! Good Luck! |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sammamish, WA, USA
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That did the trick. Once again, thanks guys.
------------------ Carlo Redmond, WA 1988 911 Carrera 3.2 1990 964 Carrera 4 |
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What is the factory spec angle of the tie rods? I realize these kits are too raise the rack up when you lower a car, because lowering causes an improper angle of the tie rods? So what is "ideal"? Straight? Slightly downward to the tie rod ends? Slighly upward? Wouldn't it make sense to just use washers as this would allow you to fine tune your angle to right where you need it (depending on how much you lowered it)?
Colby |
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Those rack spacer are only about 5/16 inch thick. Ideally, the thickness of the spacer would equal the amount the front is lowered. If that was the case, the angle on the tie rods would remain stock.
But most people lower more that 5/16 inch, usually more like 1 inch or more. The reason they don't make the spacers thicker was just illustrated by Carloe. There is not enough room for a thicker spacer. Washers would only work is you needed less than 5/16 inch. Almost never the case. So the rack spacers won't eliminate the bump steer problem on a car lowered more than 5/16 inch. But they will reduce the problem. Cars that are aggressively lowered can use raised spindles or the special tie rod extenders to achieve better geometry. |
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Those bump steering kit is NOT an accurate cure for lowered car. To do it right you need the spec. and custom the spacer. I installed one when I lowered my car too, but need to get it fix when I set up my suspension again.
Andy '87 Carrera |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: San Mateo CA
Posts: 141
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Is the bump steer kit necessary when lowering the car to Euro height? Did the Euro cars all come equipped with this kit? It would seem that Euro height is what the designers originally intended. Just curious.
Markus |
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