Door Maintenance

[Ferrino]

I currently have the moisture barrier off both my doors and the interior exposed so that I can install new door stops and RS door panels. Does anyone have a guide on what maintenance (thinking lubrication) I should be doing while it's accessible, please? It's a '76 911 and I have power windows. Thanks!

[Jdub]

There is a technical bulletin about reducing noise caused by the holes in the door. These can be plugged. Exercise the regulator (move it) to different positions, removing all old grease and putting in new. A combo of 30w and grease can do wonders. Lightly grease the very bottom of your door, inside, to reduce possibility of rust. Check and clean contacts at your door power switch and motor. Clean old grease from any and all coil springs and regrease, again trying to push in a lighter oil/grease combo. Check and verify no cuts or wear on wires to/through/into door via hole (how is the rubber protector? - check that too).

Finally, CHECK YOUR DOOR STOP STRAP AND METAL!!! Put in a reinforcement kit, esp. driver's side.

[Ferrino]

Thanks Jdub! Is a basic white lithium grease fine for this application - mixing it with a lightweight oil?

I'm replacing both door stops as the bearings inside seem to be seized and I think that's what ultimately causes the sheet metal in the door to get torn. Thankfully my sheet metal is intact on both doors. I think I will at the very least use the reinforcement kit on the driver's door, as you suggest.

[Discseven]

Ferrino,

I suggest opening your window motor and cleaning it --- while my window worked fine, the motor was grinding through loose rust particles. A large magnet works well to clean this out.



Inside the gear case... here's a shrunk gasket. ALL lubrication drained out because of this (assuming there was lube in there to start with.) I cleaned and lubed this and put the gasket back in position only to show the shrinkage. Cover was replaced with liquid gasket.



Lithium dries out. I suggest high pressure grease instead.

My scissor was rusting so it was treated to a coating of rust inhib. Also cleaned electrical terminals on window motor. Ax teeth get greased.



I'd lube all the wheel tracks with high pressure grease --- careful not to get any grease in your glass tracks... the felt. Also put some grease on the latch mechanism.



Driver's door handle pull (exterior) tend to snap --- now might be the time to rebuild. Ahhhh... never mind. With the RS door panels you'll have much easier access to door guts so forget this.

[Jdub]

Karl's writeup above is perfect. For grease, as he has suggested (I use Mobil 1 synthetic as per Warren's advice some time back).

I used to repair Mercedes power sunroofs, ant., and windows, and have stripped and repaired many motors over the years. If you can, I would suggest doing what Karl has outlined.

The most amazing thing is how fast that darn window flies once you free up the muck and clean up the connections and motor internals. It is pretty amazing!

[Ferrino]

How big of a job is it to remove the regulator to clean and regrease, please?

Also, in terms of rust inhibitor - are you referring to the clear spray stuff?

Thanks!

[garment]

Can you describe how you separated the two halves of the gear cover case? BTW - this is an outstanding post!

Originally Posted by Discseven

Ferrino,

I suggest opening your window motor and cleaning it --- while my window worked fine, the motor was grinding through loose rust particles. A large magnet works well to clean this out.



Inside the gear case... here's a shrunk gasket. ALL lubrication drained out because of this (assuming there was lube in there to start with.) I cleaned and lubed this and put the gasket back in position only to show the shrinkage. Cover was replaced with liquid gasket.