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-   -   Planning to do some work with the engine out. Anything I'm missing? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/792037-planning-do-some-work-engine-out-anything-im-missing.html)

tirwin 01-16-2014 05:35 AM

Planning to do some work with the engine out. Anything I'm missing?
 
Getting ready to bite the bullet and take care of a bunch of nagging stuff with the engine out. Anything I'm forgetting?

The list so far:
- replace sound pad
- replace fuel lines
- replace injector o-rings and sleeves
- check injector spray pattern
- check cold start injector
- check AAR
- check AAV
- replace all vac lines
- replace ducting (looking for that source in the aircraft ducting...)
- address oil leak at thermostat (probably new lines)
- new brake fluid and replace lines
- change transmission fluid
- replace engine and tranny mounts (haven't decided which yet)

Notes:
- intake runners all look in good shape
- plugs, plug wires, rotor, cap all done in last 2 years

The "might do" list:
- m&k pre-muffler (still debating going SSIs...)

The "one day" list:
- A/C upgrade and R-134a conversion (existing system is likely a goner)
- suspension refresh

mreid 01-16-2014 06:00 AM

Always a good time to replace oil cooler, crankcase vent, and sender seals.

Murphy's law of the 911 engine drop: if your seals aren't leaking when you drop your engine and you don't replace them, they will once it is reinstalled.

RichMink76 01-16-2014 06:12 AM

If you have the engine on the stand it's easier to adjust the valves.;)

CCM911 01-16-2014 06:34 AM

If you can, get an assistant for the sound pad install. I did mine by myself, but it was a total PITA!

Two extra hands would have made it so much easier.

timmy2 01-16-2014 08:16 AM

Aircraft Spruce for the ducting.

PorscheGAL 01-16-2014 08:44 AM

Just thinking access for these. Much easier if the engine is out.

Engine lid shocks.

Engine seal. The one that goes around the entire perimeter

Rear shocks

racerboyrt 01-16-2014 08:59 AM

Check clutch,PP and FW, clean inside bellhousing. Maybe new rear seal.

Charles Freeborn 01-16-2014 09:10 AM

Look at the starter too. Much easier to access with engine out.

johnsjmc 01-16-2014 09:20 AM

Pressure fed tensioners if not already there.

964TargaC2 01-16-2014 09:21 AM

Paint or powder coat the sheet metal

Bob Kontak 01-16-2014 01:57 PM

Do a "Full Tony" on the airbox. I am talking underwater.

Check under shield that forces air into the oil cooler for air obstructing cooties.

Joe Bob 01-16-2014 02:12 PM

Degrease everything.....if you use a solvent, pull the clutch disc or it will likely stick to the flywheel. Consider CVs and axles.....check the TO bearing......check the shift bushings.

If going with SSIs, read up on the nut removal.....it ain't easy.....also SSIs are in the wind with the move across the pond. Save up your schekels...

boyt911sc 01-16-2014 02:13 PM

You beat me by a second........
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak (Post 7860251)
Do a "Full Tony" on the airbox. I am talking underwater.

Check under shield that forces air into the oil cooler for air obstructing cooties.

Bob,

I was about to add 'pressure test' but you beat me to it. Check the oil return lines, clutch cable, clutch disc, oil pressure switch, engine thermostat, auxiliary thermostat, breather hoses, and fuel hoses. BTW, I won't be surprised if you find your air box leaking.

Tony

Bob Kontak 01-16-2014 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Bob (Post 7860263)
Consider CVs and axles

Good thinking. Cripes, you could do the inners from above.

Quote:

Originally Posted by boyt911sc (Post 7860265)
I won't be surprised if you find your air box leaking.

As would most of us performing the ultimate underwater test. That sets the bar.

tirwin 01-16-2014 08:11 PM

My original post was this morning while I was having my morning coffee. I got done with a long day of work and had almost forgotten about it. You guys didn't let me down with things to think about!

Mreid, good suggestions. Can't the oil cooler be cleaned?

Richmink76, did valves around 2k miles ago. I did it the stupid, frustrating, holy-crap-what-have-I-gotten-myself-into way.

CCM911, assistant for the sound pad install. Check. Put the kids to work!

timmy2, thanks for the pointer to the ducting source.

PorscheGAL, engine lid shocks were done not too long ago. Engine seal, check. I'm gonna leave the suspension work for another day. I'm going to be in lovely San Jose next week and I'm hoping to drop by Elephant Racing to stare at Porsche suspension stuff in a lecherous manner. :)

racerboyrt, check clutch, PP, FW and clean bellhousing. Check x 4.

Charles Freeborn, check starter. Checkity check.

johnsjmc, carerra tensioners installed by PO.

Bob, I had to look up a "Full Tony". You scared me for a minute because I thought that might be close to a "Full Monty". Man that first time engine drop picture could've been awkward! Cooties, check.

Joe Bob, degrease. Check. TO bearing. Check. Did all the shift bushings a year or so ago using ivangene's Delrin jobbies. I just saw the other day that JWest has a couple of interesting parts to go along with that job. Might check that out.

Tony, I think one of the oil return lines is the source of my leak. Either that or it is something in the triangle of death. It's not bad but might as well fix it while I'm there. Thermostats, check. Planning on replacing the fuel hoses to/from the tank. I have the hard lines from the FD to the injectors on my '83.

Another thing I thought of is checking the green wire from the distributor and I'm ordering a ATO rear fuse panel from Fred Cook. Good time to clean up the wiring and check for corrosion.

Oh, I forgot to mention that I got the duty cycle issue sorted out a couple of weeks ago. I learned a few lessons. One the previous owner planted the seed in my head that the engine was running rich. It was not. It was running lean. I was on the wrong end of the spectrum. The other thing was that I was initially confused about the reading on the test port. Bob and JR set me straight on that. I was thinking that I was reading the AFR "measurement". What I was reading was the ECU's attempt to richen the mixture. Once I got that through my thick head it was a lot easier. Oh and Jim Williams and I exchanged some emails. He gave me some spot on advice too. One of the things that I was going to do was to hook up the Actron dwell meter and see what it read compared to the new DVM. I will report back on that. One of the nice things about the DVM is that is has a min/max function for the duty cycle which is sort of a digital version of watching an analog needle "dither". :)

I ordered a DVM with a duty cycle function (and some other goodies) and I was able to get the AFR adjusted to 45% duty cycle. The car was running like a top -- better than it ever has since I owned it -- when the CDI died last weekend. :( I was going to take it in to get the exhaust gas checked on Monday but that will have to wait until I get the ignition fixed. MSD Streetfire and Blaster II coil came in today so I know what I'll be doing this weekend!

Thanks to everyone who responded!

snbush67 01-16-2014 08:27 PM

Pull the oil tank out and give it a refresh, you might be surprised what you find in there. Mine had two dipsticks.

tirwin 01-16-2014 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snbush67 (Post 7860795)
Pull the oil tank out and give it a refresh, you might be surprised what you find in there. Mine had two dipsticks.

Good idea. I'm sure I have at least two dipsticks in the car. One is in the driver seat!

Edit: Shane, I just saw you're in Oahu. You own an old 911 AND you live in Hawaii? Keep livin' the dream!


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