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El Duderino
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Planning to do some work with the engine out. Anything I'm missing?
Getting ready to bite the bullet and take care of a bunch of nagging stuff with the engine out. Anything I'm forgetting?
The list so far: - replace sound pad - replace fuel lines - replace injector o-rings and sleeves - check injector spray pattern - check cold start injector - check AAR - check AAV - replace all vac lines - replace ducting (looking for that source in the aircraft ducting...) - address oil leak at thermostat (probably new lines) - new brake fluid and replace lines - change transmission fluid - replace engine and tranny mounts (haven't decided which yet) Notes: - intake runners all look in good shape - plugs, plug wires, rotor, cap all done in last 2 years The "might do" list: - m&k pre-muffler (still debating going SSIs...) The "one day" list: - A/C upgrade and R-134a conversion (existing system is likely a goner) - suspension refresh
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There are those who call me... Tim '83 911 SC 3.0 coupe (NA) You can't buy happiness, but you can buy car parts which is kind of the same thing. |
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non-whiner
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Slightly right of center
Posts: 5,235
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Always a good time to replace oil cooler, crankcase vent, and sender seals.
Murphy's law of the 911 engine drop: if your seals aren't leaking when you drop your engine and you don't replace them, they will once it is reinstalled.
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"Too much is just enough." |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 543
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If you have the engine on the stand it's easier to adjust the valves.
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1976 911/S/SC/BASTARD Mid9 Member #12 |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wayne, PA
Posts: 2,010
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If you can, get an assistant for the sound pad install. I did mine by myself, but it was a total PITA!
Two extra hands would have made it so much easier.
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Christopher Mahalick 1984 911 Targa, 1974 Lotus Europa TCS 2001 BMW 530i(5spd!), Ducati 900 SS/SP 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250, 2015 Yamaha R3 1965 Suzuki k15 Hillbilly, 1975 Suzuki GT750 |
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ROW '78 911 Targa
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Aircraft Spruce for the ducting.
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Garage Queen
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Just thinking access for these. Much easier if the engine is out.
Engine lid shocks. Engine seal. The one that goes around the entire perimeter Rear shocks
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Stephanie '21 Model S Plaid, '21 Model 3 Performance '13 Focus ST, Off to a new home: '16 Focus RS,'86 911 Targa 3.4, '87 930, '05 Lotus Elise, '19 Audi RS3, |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 693
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Check clutch,PP and FW, clean inside bellhousing. Maybe new rear seal.
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Registered
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Look at the starter too. Much easier to access with engine out.
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Bone stock 1974 911S Targa. 1972 914/4 Race Car |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: London Ont Canada
Posts: 3,120
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Pressure fed tensioners if not already there.
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1980 911 SC 3.6 coupe sold 1995 993 coupe 1966 Mustang Shelby clone 1964 Corvair Spyder Turbo gone 2012 Boss 302 |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,186
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Paint or powder coat the sheet metal
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I think that maybe I'm dreaming.. |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Do a "Full Tony" on the airbox. I am talking underwater.
Check under shield that forces air into the oil cooler for air obstructing cooties.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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RETIRED
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Degrease everything.....if you use a solvent, pull the clutch disc or it will likely stick to the flywheel. Consider CVs and axles.....check the TO bearing......check the shift bushings.
If going with SSIs, read up on the nut removal.....it ain't easy.....also SSIs are in the wind with the move across the pond. Save up your schekels...
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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Registered
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You beat me by a second........
Quote:
I was about to add 'pressure test' but you beat me to it. Check the oil return lines, clutch cable, clutch disc, oil pressure switch, engine thermostat, auxiliary thermostat, breather hoses, and fuel hoses. BTW, I won't be surprised if you find your air box leaking. Tony |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Good thinking. Cripes, you could do the inners from above.
As would most of us performing the ultimate underwater test. That sets the bar.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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El Duderino
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My original post was this morning while I was having my morning coffee. I got done with a long day of work and had almost forgotten about it. You guys didn't let me down with things to think about!
Mreid, good suggestions. Can't the oil cooler be cleaned? Richmink76, did valves around 2k miles ago. I did it the stupid, frustrating, holy-crap-what-have-I-gotten-myself-into way. CCM911, assistant for the sound pad install. Check. Put the kids to work! timmy2, thanks for the pointer to the ducting source. PorscheGAL, engine lid shocks were done not too long ago. Engine seal, check. I'm gonna leave the suspension work for another day. I'm going to be in lovely San Jose next week and I'm hoping to drop by Elephant Racing to stare at Porsche suspension stuff in a lecherous manner. ![]() racerboyrt, check clutch, PP, FW and clean bellhousing. Check x 4. Charles Freeborn, check starter. Checkity check. johnsjmc, carerra tensioners installed by PO. Bob, I had to look up a "Full Tony". You scared me for a minute because I thought that might be close to a "Full Monty". Man that first time engine drop picture could've been awkward! Cooties, check. Joe Bob, degrease. Check. TO bearing. Check. Did all the shift bushings a year or so ago using ivangene's Delrin jobbies. I just saw the other day that JWest has a couple of interesting parts to go along with that job. Might check that out. Tony, I think one of the oil return lines is the source of my leak. Either that or it is something in the triangle of death. It's not bad but might as well fix it while I'm there. Thermostats, check. Planning on replacing the fuel hoses to/from the tank. I have the hard lines from the FD to the injectors on my '83. Another thing I thought of is checking the green wire from the distributor and I'm ordering a ATO rear fuse panel from Fred Cook. Good time to clean up the wiring and check for corrosion. Oh, I forgot to mention that I got the duty cycle issue sorted out a couple of weeks ago. I learned a few lessons. One the previous owner planted the seed in my head that the engine was running rich. It was not. It was running lean. I was on the wrong end of the spectrum. The other thing was that I was initially confused about the reading on the test port. Bob and JR set me straight on that. I was thinking that I was reading the AFR "measurement". What I was reading was the ECU's attempt to richen the mixture. Once I got that through my thick head it was a lot easier. Oh and Jim Williams and I exchanged some emails. He gave me some spot on advice too. One of the things that I was going to do was to hook up the Actron dwell meter and see what it read compared to the new DVM. I will report back on that. One of the nice things about the DVM is that is has a min/max function for the duty cycle which is sort of a digital version of watching an analog needle "dither". ![]() I ordered a DVM with a duty cycle function (and some other goodies) and I was able to get the AFR adjusted to 45% duty cycle. The car was running like a top -- better than it ever has since I owned it -- when the CDI died last weekend. ![]() Thanks to everyone who responded!
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There are those who call me... Tim '83 911 SC 3.0 coupe (NA) You can't buy happiness, but you can buy car parts which is kind of the same thing. Last edited by tirwin; 01-16-2014 at 08:34 PM.. |
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Registered
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Pull the oil tank out and give it a refresh, you might be surprised what you find in there. Mine had two dipsticks.
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78’ SC 911 Targa - 3.2SS, PMO 46, M&K 2/2 1 5/8” HEADERS, 123 DIST, PORTERFIELD R4-S PADS, KR75 CAMS, REBEL RACING BUSHINGS, KONI CLASSICS |
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El Duderino
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Quote:
Edit: Shane, I just saw you're in Oahu. You own an old 911 AND you live in Hawaii? Keep livin' the dream!
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There are those who call me... Tim '83 911 SC 3.0 coupe (NA) You can't buy happiness, but you can buy car parts which is kind of the same thing. Last edited by tirwin; 01-16-2014 at 08:37 PM.. |
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