Ha! Don't hurt yourself over there, Eric - I wouldn't want that on my conscience! :D

Dave, I have a request:

Could you post the instructions for your valve-lash-adjusting tool? Thanks!

Hi Eric,

I'll give it a try - there's 4 pages here so I hope that the post limit is not exceeded.


Porsche 911 Valve Lash Adjusting Tool Instructions

Finally, there is a simpler, faster and more exacting way to adjust valve lash on all air-cooled Porsche 911 engines employing mechanical (non-hydraulic) lash adjustment. This tool functions by the same principle as a micrometer to achieve repeatable 0.1 mm (.004 in) lash clearance settings on every valve. The tool is made of highest quality materials…steel parts are hardened and black oxide treated while all aluminum components are anodized.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395070562.jpg

It is strongly suggested that one have prior experience in adjusting valve lash on air-cooled 911 engines. Familiarity with the adjusting procedure is an absolute necessity. Have a shop manual at your disposal for reference.

Tool Set-up

1. Prepare engine for valve lash adjustment per instructions in the shop manual.

2. Place tool on cylinder 1 intake or exhaust rocker arm with the tool post engaged with the rocker arm beam. Rotate adjustment knob such that the driver bit engages the slot in the adjuster screw. Loosen the lock knob and adjust tool post such that tool sits squarely on the adjuster screw as shown below. Tighten lock knob. For most engines, this initial adjustment will be satisfactory for the remaining 11 valves.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395070649.jpg

How to Use This Tool

1. Per the shop manual, rotate crankshaft until cylinder 1 is at TDC on compression stroke.

2. Starting with the intake valve on cylinder 1, loosen the rocker arm adjusting screw lock nut using a 13 mm box wrench. Rotate nut at least 90 degrees so as not to hinder rotation of the rocker arm adjuster screw. Leave wrench in position on lock nut.

3. Place tool onto rocker arm, engaging the driver bit in adjuster screw slot. Turn the adjustment knob clockwise until resistance is felt – this is the zero-clearance condition. There is no need to over tighten – a snug, finger-tight torque is all that is required. A typical appearance of the adjustment knob would be as shown below. If marks are not in a convenient position to view, lift tool off of adjustment screw and rotate adjustment knob 180 degrees, then re-engage. This orients markings into a more favorable position for viewing:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395070726.jpg

4. Without moving the adjustment knob, rotate the pointer to align with the long, uninterrupted line on the adjustment knob as shown below. This indicates the zero lash clearance baseline:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395070816.jpg

5. Now rotate the adjustment knob counter-clockwise to the .1 mm line as shown below. The proper .1 mm lash clearance is now established:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395070873.jpg

6. While holding the adjustment knob stationary, tighten the 13 mm lock nut with the box wrench already in position. Don’t over tighten – a reasonable torque is all that is required. You may find that the adjustment knob will rotate out of position during this operation. Loosen lock nut and slightly over-compensate on rotational position of the adjustment knob such that when lock nut is tightened, alignment of the .1 mm line to the pointer is achieved.

7. Remove tool and box wrench from rocker arm. Check for lateral motion in rocker arm – rocker should move side-to-side freely. Check for lash clearance by moving rocker arm in normal direction of motion. A .1 mm clearance is difficult to feel, but some motion should be detectible. Proceed to the exhaust valve on cylinder 1 using the same procedure.

Repeat procedure for remaining cylinders in the order stated in the shop manual. With a little practice, you’ll find that valve adjustments take much less time using this tool as compared to feeler gauges, and that the end result is more accurate. Until you gain confidence in using this tool, you may want to check and verify the adjusted clearance for the first few valves with a feeler gauge.

Notes

Valve adjustment order follows cylinder firing order. For the 911 engine this sequence is 1-6-2-4-3-5.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395070946.jpg

Engine must be at ambient temperature before performing a valve lash adjustment.

Valve cover nut torque is 8 Nm (6 ft-lb).

These instructions are enclosed (in printed form) with every tool. The format appears much better than what's posted here.

I realize this tool is not for everyone and I respect that. There are always those that prefer the classic method of adjusting valve lash using a feeler gauge.

Regarding cost, I could have made this tool a lot cheaper, but I chose to go the highest quality route. Using tool steel, hardened and quenched heat treatment, black oxide, red anodize on aluminum parts, laser engraved markings, and made entirely in USA, doesn't come cheap. The shop that makes these for me also makes tools for Snap-On, so they know what they're doing. My philosophy is to make it right such that it will be a one-time investment that will last a lifetime.

Not only have you made an overkill tool, but you sacrificed a rocker arm to act as a display stand by cutting it in half? Pardon me sir, that is Porsh-ah SACRELIGE! :D ;)

Nice tool IMO, regardless of what the die hard feeler gauge crowd sez.

My opinion, the original feeler gauge finger-hook tool is a compromise. Bend the feeler gauge to get it in there, futz around with slipping the feeler gauge in between the valve tip and the elephant foot, turn the adjuster screw down, check for "light drag" (which is a term that has been perptually coined falsely IMO, as it should be firm drag considering the bent feeler gauge), lock down the nut while counterholding with screwdriver. Bend the feeler enough & it snaps off (or wrinkles from futzing with getting the feeler under the foot) and you gotta replace the feeler material & clamp it in place with the teensy weensy screws & nuts.

The better feeler tool is the one Baum formerly supplied until they got too much demand from people here on Pelican. Baum stopped supplying it, so island911 here on Pelican chose to have the tool made up. Even with the nice island feeler tool, still gotta have the right feel/drag to ensure your valves are nice & quiet, but not too tight. With the Kirk tool, its almost stoopidproof.

Not everybody has the best mechanical sense & I like the fact that the Kirk tool gives high confidence to the average kludge that the adjustment is spot-on.

Kevin,

I got a little heavy-handed with the picture cropping function - no genuine Porsche parts were harmed in the making of that picture. I want to thank Jerry Austin for originally giving me that rocker arm for tool design purposes.

Thanks for your well stated observations and your interest.

Looks pretty slick. It looks small enough to be able to get into the tight places. I've done the valves the old school way for 20 years, but I'm going to give this tool a try.

Outstanding!

This is the part that sucks time using the conventional method. With your tool, you know right now it's not spot on.

I bought one, it is safely in my toolchest awaiting spring and the annual car set up.

Outstanding device from what I can see, helps me avoid what I consider the ugliest job on air cooled 911's, plus ought to put peace of mind around the "is it too tight or too loose" question.

Love it...

Dennis

Dave,

Nice looking tool, I'll be getting one before my spring tune up. Yes, I've done years of valve adjustments with the feeler gauge, but always end up wondering if I really got the feeler gauge in straight and flat and am not getting a false reading from flexing the gauge.

I buy way too many expensive wood working tools and can say that this is a bargain for what went into it.

Rutager

Dkirk, as a wise man once said - "Haters gonna hate"

I'll also be ordering this tool :D

I love the tool, I read your research and development notes, and went to PP to look for it. I plan to get one, but I always harp about price. Made in the USA says something. Excellent R&D but I am still waiting for a break in the price..

I'm going to buy this tool. Not because I need it, but because it looks cool and because it's so well made.

I started using this tool that I bought from the Rennlist 993 forum: (see tool on the left) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395104907.jpg

It works much better than a feeler gauge and operates on a similar principal.

Looks good! I think I will be buying this tool as well.

I like a car tool that makes life easier. Even if it's a single-purpose tool. I bought a hand-pump specifically for putting transmission oil in my 3.2. Yes, you can do without it. But why do it the old-fashioned way when there is an easier way that does the job just as well? Easier = faster, which means the task gets done on time, AND allows you to drive more, wrench less.

Gentlemen,

I really appreciate the kind comments and enthusiam - Thank You! Gives me the encouragement to proceed with making more and having them available such that this back-order situation does not occur again.

I'm so glad that I saw this post! I already bought one. This tool is going to be an enormous time saver. Thanks for inventing it! Thanks to Wayner for bringing it to my attention.

Now I'm actually looking forward to doing my valves in a week or two. :)

I'd better get off my butt and buy :)