Shift Coupler -- The latest in a long line of threads

[scottb]

I just replaced the shift coupler in my 84. I read the Pelican tech article, read Wayne's book, read the Bentley manual, read various threads on the board, and I still can't get the "bleeping" shifter to work right. If I adjust it one way, I nick reverse when going from fifth down to fourth. If I adjust it another way, the transmission grinds when I put it in reverse to back out of the garage.

All of the bushings were replaced, and a factory short shift kit was installed. No pounding was done on the shifter to take off or replace the shift knob -- all that work was done on the bench and was done without stress to the housing.

So, what am I missing and/or doing wrong?

[Dana_Drury]

I assume you have adjusted your shifter properly?

Also, the motor and tranny mounts can wear out depending on use, and this can cause shift problems at speed...

[emcon5]

I did the exact same thing.

Put it back like it was when you were nicking reverse, then adjust the depth of the shift rod in the coupler. The nicking reverse thing is a function of the length of the shift rod, not the left/right position of the rod in the shift coupler. With the shifter in neutral position, the tab that forms the "gate" for 5 & R should be centered between the "gates" as seen in this picture, lifted from the thread on installintg the Seine Systems gate shift kit.



If the shifter is too far to the front or back, it will still go into gear, but not properly engage the 5-R lockout tab thingy, allowing you to nick reverse.

Hope this helps,

Tom

[scottb]

I had the same thought as I was laying awake last night thinking about the problem. I'll check it tonight when I get home. Do I want the shift rod to be deeper into the coupler, or more shallow? In other words, should the shift rod be longer or shorter?

Anyone out there with more ideas?

Thanks.

[emcon5]

Originally posted by scottb
Do I want the shift rod to be deeper into the coupler, or more shallow?

Unfortunately I think the answer is "It Depends".

In my case, the shifter was too far back, which would prevent the lockout tab from engaging. It is also possible for the lever to be too far forward, allowing it to start to engage reverse before the lockout tab stops it from moving any farther back.

If this is the problem, you should be able to see which way it is out of adjustment. With the engine off put the car in 5th and try and shift straight into reverse. If you can, the shifter is probably too far back, and the tab isn't engaging. If the tab engages, and you still nick reverse, you may be too far forward.

It would probably be easiest to adjust with the boot off the shifter, but you may be able to feel through the rubber the position of the tab between the gates. In neutral it should be centered, or pretty damn close. I believe the lower part of the shift lever (below the bend) should be perfectly vertical.

Tom

[scottb]

At 45, what I'm about to say may be "age inappropriate," but I'm gonna say it nonetheless:

THIS BOARD ROCKS, AND SO DO THE PEOPLE ON IT!!

Shift coupler is now properly adusted. No more nicking reverse, no more grinding when I put it in reverse. What I've got now are sharp, smooth (short) shifts between all gears, up and down.

My thanks to all of you who responded.

[Dana_Drury]

Can you for our (or rather mine) benefit explain exactly how you went adjusting the shifter to get it perfect? Thank you.

[Wayne 962]

Okay, let's get something straight here.

There are no synchros on reverse. That means that it will always grind into reverse no matter what you do, unless you engage reverse properly.

You must wait for the transmission to spin down before you put it into reverse. You can accomplish this two ways. Either place the clutch in and wait about five seconds, and then put it in reverse.

Or, you can put it temporarily into fourth, and then reverse.

If the clutch still grinds after pushing it in and waiting, then you have your clutch improperly adjusted. The clutch is still engaged and spinning the transmission (shouldn't be).

Let me know if this is not clear...

-Wayne

[scottb]

Here's what worked for me. I would strongly suggest you also take a look at Bob Tindel's Pelican article on shifting improvements. Between that and his article on installing the short shift kit, I had first rate instructions for all phases of this project.

The trick is to get the lower part of the shift lever as close to vertical as possible. First, open the coupler bay behind the front seats (it's under the carpet). Then, loosen the clamp bolt. At this point, the shifter and the coupler can move idependently. If you have your console apart, take a look at the relationship of the lever to the top part of the shift housing. It should be as close as possible to 90 degrees -- in other words, the shift lever should be vertical. If you don't have the console apart, feel through the shift boot for the shift gates, and try to gauge the distrance between the gates and the shift lever with your fingers. Getting down on your knees and "eyeballing" it helps too. The lever should be equidistant from the gates. Then move the shift lever all the way to the driver's side (without moving it forward or backward). At the same time, reach back into the coupler bay and rotate the coupler toward the passenger side of the car (while holding the shifter to the left). Tighten everything down. If you've held the shift lever in place during this process, the coupler should be properly adjusted. There should be some fore-aft play in the shift rod. Before starting the engine, shift the lever into all gears, and reverse, to see if it feels normal. If it does, then take the car for a spin. If you nick reverse when shifting from 5th to 4th, it's a matter of trial and error to figure out if the lever needs to come back a hair, or go forward. Loosen the clamp, but don't rotate the coupler and don't move the shift lever side-to-side. Move the shift lever forward or backward just a hair. Make very small adjustments -- it doesn't take much to get it right or make it worse. If it's still nicking reverse, try loosening the clamp again, and moving the lever in the opposite direction of the last adjustment, and move it a bit more than the last adjustment. I actually took my tools with me, and made the adjustments while parked on the side of the "test track" near my house. Once I got it just right, I took the car home, torqued the clamp bolt (17 foot pounds) and buttoned everything up. Patience can be a virture here, but I'm proof that it can be done.

As to Wayne's comments...he's "the man" when it comes to this stuff, so I won't even attempt to dispute what he said. (If you don't believe he's "the man," read 101 Projects, that'll convince you fast!! If you don't have the book, buy it immediately.) My guess is that at the time reverse was grinding I was not a happy camper because of the adjustment issues, and probably didn't wait enough time for it to wind down.

[Wayne 962]

Well, not really 'the man' but let's say I've been down that road before...

-Wayne