Coupler bushing reviews

[bugstrider]

Hey everyone,

Since I've pretty much written off a paid order for coupler bushings from another supplier, I'm now looking for the best option other than the crapy plastic ones. I just recently discovered that our host/supplier has both a brass option along with a Delrin option. Glen at Pelican was very helpful fielding my dumb/nubi questions regarding both of these but didn't have any customer feedback on the brass. In my limited experience with the plastic ones, 911/912 they tend to flop around a bit. I'm looking for a little more of a snug fit,

I know our trani is clunky at best requiring finesse into 1st, I'm just trying to make it as smooth as possible. I will be installing all new linkage bushings as well an new fluid and a peddle cluster inspection to boot.

So my question to y'all: has anyone used the brass or Delrin? Looking for some input.

Cheers


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[timmy2]

I installed the Delrin over 2 years ago and haven't had to make an adjustment since.

[Bill Douglas]

I put the crappy plastic ones in about 15 years ago and they have been excellent since.

[JMatta]

Install the 914 bushings (round vs oval) without the back/forth slop. I've been tracking with those for years and still nice and precise. Also make sure all the bushings in the tunnel are in good shape, as well as the ball socket. 915s properly adjusted are a pleasure to shift.

[jerrykrug]

I too am in the same boat...I paid $75 for the coupler whisperer's rebuilt exchange bushing & have had no response in 2-3 months since I ordered. I know it sounded like the family was dealing with some issues so I have been patient and only emailed & PM'd him twice. Anyone here know or heard from him? Whats are next option?

[JWest]

For the times I'm not using a Stomski coupler, I use the round hole black ones from Pelican - tight fit on the pin and smooth action.

99-1758-424-M230

I've never had a need to go beyond one of these two coupler options - a good coupler is important to me as it is required to take full advantage of my shifters.

No need to overthink this - I have "fixed" a number of shifting issues on customer cars by getting rid of bronze or brass shifter bushings in the linkage that were causing binding.

[Rich Gas]

I'm using the Wevo coupler...easy to adjust...works great, plus it's really good looking.

[cabmandone]

I bought a set of brass and a set of delrin. I liked the idea of the brass bushings so I installed those in the coupler in my car and I installed the delrin in my spare coupler. The shifter is very tight now. I don't have enough time on the coupler (2-3000 miles) to give you any idea of longevity. I probably would have been happy with the delrin bushings too. FWIW, I too was hoping new bushings would help with the grind into first on downshift. No dice, still grinds just like it did. New Syncros might be on tap for next winter's project.

Originally Posted by JWest

For the times I'm not using a Stomski coupler, I use the round hole black ones from Pelican - tight fit on the pin and smooth action.

99-1758-424-M230

I've never had a need to go beyond one of these two coupler options - a good coupler is important to me as it is required to take full advantage of my shifters.

No need to overthink this - I have "fixed" a number of shifting issues on customer cars by getting rid of bronze or brass shifter bushings in the linkage that were causing binding.

uh oh! I don't notice any binding but I put Boeshield on the pin and then sprayed it and let it soak in before I installed the bushing.

[Jdub]

The 914 bushings are just fine. As said above, the other bushings play a big part in the shifter-to-transmission feel, and of course the pedal cluster-to-transmission section an equally-important part. You cannot judge until you know both paths to the trans are in solid shape. Otherwise you are just whistling past the graveyard!

[Jeff NJ]

The Wevo PSJ is a little pricey compared to bushings, but I installed mine last night (88 930 with the stock shifter) and just got back from a test drive. BIG difference. I haven't touched the shifter bushings or the shaft bushing that is in between the shifter and the coupler yet (that is next), but it is much more precise and while first still isn't easy, it is a lot better than it was yesterday. Only took me like 30 minutes from start to finish too.

[bugstrider]

Thanks guys, this really helps out. I was wondering the risk of electrolysis between the dissimilar metals with the brass bushings. I've see electrolysis on aircraft rudder peddle assemblies, thus the question. When members are referring to 914 bushings, is that in reference to italic ing the ones for the 914 being used in our couplers? Sorry for such basic questions but I'm still learning :-)

Jeff, what bushings did you just install? Glad to hear the positive results.




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[redstack]

In Jan I ordered a set of coupler whisper bushing. They arrived two weeks and it was easy to install them in the existing coupler. Just watched the video and while mine didn't pop in they did work fine. Don't know why your order went into the void. Redid all bushings and there was a marked improvement.

[Jeff NJ]

Originally Posted by bugstrider

Thanks guys, this really helps out. I was wondering the risk of electrolysis between the dissimilar metals with the brass bushings. I've see electrolysis on aircraft rudder peddle assemblies, thus the question. When members are referring to 914 bushings, is that in reference to italic ing the ones for the 914 being used in our couplers? Sorry for such basic questions but I'm still learning :-)

Jeff, what bushings did you just install? Glad to hear the positive results.

I actually purchased the Wevo shift coupler (they call it a PSJ). It was about $200, but it is better than stock and a LOT better than an old one. I plan on getting a Wevo short shifter soon, so that is why I got their PSJ from our host. For *****s and giggles, I just pulled the old one apart and replaced the bushings with the ones I bought here (part# 99-1758-424-M230). The pin took a lot of force to get out, but once out, it was easy to replace and reassemble. I would have been afraid to use that much force if I didn't have a replacement coupler already installed, but it worked fine and the tolerances are quite good. No idea about the longevity, of course.

[bsimonson]

Originally Posted by cabmando

FWIW, I too was hoping new bushings would help with the grind into first on downshift. No dice, still grinds just like it did. New Syncros might be on tap for next winter's project.

I replaced my bushings some time ago and while the feel improved, getting into first would still be difficult. I then replaced my engine and gearbox mounts and that made a huge difference. I can now go into first on downshift without any trouble...most of the time anyway.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by bsimonson

I replaced my bushings some time ago and while the feel improved, getting into first would still be difficult. I then replaced my engine and gearbox mounts and that made a huge difference. I can now go into first on downshift without any trouble...most of the time anyway.

Thanks! I'll have to add that to the list of things to do (next winter naturally).

[tobluforu]

Stomski here, bought way back when it was 100 bucks, probably 10 plus years ago.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by bugstrider

Thanks guys, this really helps out. I was wondering the risk of electrolysis between the dissimilar metals with the brass bushings. I've see electrolysis on aircraft rudder peddle assemblies, thus the question. When members are referring to 914 bushings, is that in reference to italic ing the ones for the 914 being used in our couplers? Sorry for such basic questions but I'm still learning :-)

Jeff, what bushings did you just install? Glad to hear the positive results.

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I was concerned about that too but in the end I decided to go the brass route and just add spraying the coupler with Boeshield once a year. BTW, both my brass and Delrin sets have round holes. The rebuild is VERY easy. I had a heavy piece of steel I drilled a hole in the same size as the coupler shaft. I slid the coupler shaft into the heavy steel and then drove the pin out of the housing. I then drove the old bushings out and new ones in then drove the pin back in. It wasn't all that difficult. I had seen several posts where guys said "I'd never do that" but I had two couplers so I figured if I didn't try, I wouldn't learn anything.

I was told by someone here in another thread to stay away from the red prothane bushings. Below is a link to the thread where I asked basically the same question back when I was considering different bushings. See post number 8 in that thread. I thought that member gave a good breakdown of the differences even though in the end I went against his advice and put in the brass. But again, I have two couplers so if something changes, I can drop in the other.

Shift coupler bushings, Prothane, Delrin or Brass???

[steve84]

When I got my '84, I had a Wevo shifter and PSJ coupler installed. They made a vast improvement over the original equipment.

[JWest]

Originally Posted by bugstrider

When members are referring to 914 bushings, is that in reference to italic ing the ones for the 914 being used in our couplers? Sorry for such basic questions but I'm still learning :-)

The 914 had round holes (rather than oval) from the the factory. The aftermarket version is like the 914, hence the reference. Specifically, if you want those, order 99-1758-424-M230 from Pelican.

[bugstrider]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

I put the crappy plastic ones in about 15 years ago and they have been excellent since.

Hi Bill,

I very glad to see that you have had good luck with the plastic bushings. My reference to "crapy" should have been "regular", no dig intended. I just was disappointed to see the exact same amount of free play in my coupler after installing new bushings from a local supplier to us on the left coast. I have since ordered a complete set of bushings from out host(black ands Delrin). In my readings, it seems the regular black one provided by PP are different from the ones I replaced. I should be able to snug up the coupler with the choices.

Cheers