Salvaging Expensive Weather Strip-How Would You?

[911SauCy]

All,

I've recently R/R my Targa bar to strip the paint and unveil the beautiful stainless that lie in wait for the last 36 years.

I had a mishap with some bad weatherstrip adhesive and need to remove and replace the Targa bar seal...again.

Problem this time, the bad glue is all sticky and slimy like hot gum

What would you do to clean the goo off the rubber and go again?

I appreciate any help, advice, or war stories.

SauCe

[nineball]

citristrip, available at lowes/home depot. it's the color of an orange creamsicle.

[garment]

Slightly OT- can you describe the stripping process? This is a goal of mine as well. Thanks.

All,



I've recently R/R my Targa bar to strip the paint and unveil the beautiful stainless that lie in wait for the last 36 years.



I had a mishap with some bad weatherstrip adhesive and need to remove and replace the Targa bar seal...again.



Problem this time, the bad glue is all sticky and slimy like hot gum



What would you do to clean the goo off the rubber and go again?



I appreciate any help, advice, or war stories.



SauCe

[nineball]

you can use the citristrip to remove the paint as well. i used it when i redid my targa bar and i used it to remove the glue residue from the seals and the carpet when i replaced that. you just brush it on, wait 1-24 hours (depending on how much needs to be removed) and wipe it off.

[bob deluke]

3M adhesive remover, comes in a quart can, with a plastic spout. Squeeze between rubber and targa bar channel, use a narrow plastic tool to work the seal out of the channel. Clean the seal and channel with adhesive remover, use 3M or Permatex black rubber adhesive to reinstall seal. Make sure you follow directions for applying adhesive. Don't use lacquer thinner to clean the seal, it'll makes the seal soft and spongy. Have not tried the citrus cleaner, but it sounds like it will work as well. If you work slowly and carefully and don't stretch the gasket, you may be able to reuse it. New seal is very expensive.

[911SauCy]

Originally Posted by bob deluke

New seal is very expensive.

Exactly my point of asking.

I appreciate the input and I've been quite careful with the seal and it didn't seem to have stretched.

fingers crossed.

[Jack Stands]

Has anyone ever tried to renew the cloth section of that targa seal (where the door glass rides)?

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by nineball

you can use the citristrip to remove the paint as well. i used it when i redid my targa bar and i used it to remove the glue residue from the seals and the carpet when i replaced that. you just brush it on, wait 1-24 hours (depending on how much needs to be removed) and wipe it off.

Cool. Have never use this before. Thanks.

Citristrip® Safer Paint & Varnish Stripping Gel (QCG73801T) - 6 Pack - Paint & Varnish Chemical Removers - Ace Hardware

I used acetone for a short time when removing the old sound pad glue in the engine bay. IT softens the paint too quickly (like lacquer thinner but a wee bit slower). I ended up using a gel adhesive remover and a power washer (engine was out) and that worked well. Only stated this as the adhesive remover does real well. I have a can of 3M spray remover - I think it's called bug and tar remover - but it does work on adhesive.

[911SauCy]

Originally Posted by garment

Slightly OT- can you describe the stripping process? This is a goal of mine as well. Thanks.

There are a number of things to search on here I.E. "Targa Bar Removal" for photos, but it was fairly simple.

After I got over the fact that I had to remove this ugly old rubber seal...all went well.

Look under/inside fenders and find the 2 studs on each side with 10mm nuts holding them on, spray with some PB Blaster for easy removal later.

See comments on how to remove rubber seal above.

Once unglued, remove the plastic push studs from either side of each targa top guide tube.

Remove and clean the seal, set it aside.

Get a Phillips screw driver and remove all, I believe 12-14 SS screws along the front edge of the targa bar in the channel. Previously hidden by the rubber seal. Be careful to not break the plastic screws (2-per side) on the uprights, they're NLA. And you guessed it! Mine basically disintegrated... (I took a small flat heat, heated with MAP Gas torch, pressed into remaining plastic stud until it cooled and could be unscrewed. For a replacement I used GM style body panel plastic push plugs)

Now, unbolt the 4 bolts, 2-each side, from the studs. And get a buddy to help loosen/lift the bar cover off. Just makes it easier and dramatically reduces possibility for paint damage.

Many people recommend Air Plane Paint Remover or something of the sort. I went to Lowes and found a spray can of some wicked stuff. Also, spend the $3 for a soft plastic scraper.

Remove the "targa" emblems with an 8mm and set them aside.

Just apply the stripper and let it go to town.

After I got all the paint off, it cleaned the metal with acetone, followed by warm water and dish soap. No way I wanted that crap running down onto the fenders.

Install...

Reverse process with beer and helper.

[Ayles]

Are you sure on the plastic screw plugs being NLA? I did this last summer and was able to get all new plastic parts from Pelican.

[Ayles]

I had to do some digging on one of my old threads. Here are all the part numbers you need.

901-565-930-41-M260 Targa Bar to Rear Window Beading, 911 (1974-89)
911-565-091-45-M260 Targa Front Bar Seal, 911 (1974-85)
999-591-423-03-M260 Speed Nut for Hood & Decklid Emblems (6)
999-703-186-40-M100 Plastic Rivet/Plug (sold per each, 4 required), 911SC / Turbo (1978-1983)
901-565-361-40-OEM Targa Aligning Seal (sold per each, 2 required), 911 (1974-85)
999-064-037-40-OEM Plastic Screw Plug, sold each (4 required), 911SC / Turbo (1978-1983) (TARGA)
999-591-384-40-OEM Cap for Plastic Rivet/Plug (sold per each, 4 required), 911SC / Turbo (1978-1983)

[nineball]

there are some good before and after shots of the carpet glue residue and citristrip here:

it seems like everyone else has done it, so why not me... (interior)

[911SauCy]

Originally Posted by Ayles

Are you sure on the plastic screw plugs being NLA? I did this last summer and was able to get all new plastic parts from Pelican.

I did this project 3 weeks ago.

[Ayles]

Got it, if you look at the part numbers there is an old and new for the screw plugs.

Old is NLA and the updated part number is available for $3 each.

901-801-153-40-OEM Old

999-064-037-40-OEM new

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by 911SauCy

I did this project 3 weeks ago.

Cool. How did the plugs go in?

I remember having to rig up a little fixture that had a shaft the went to the bottom of the hole in the plastic plug and then a washer that shouldered up against the convex part of the plug. The washer did the pushing work but the shaft kept the long part of the plug intact (unbent)

I smooshed a few before I did some searches here.

Also used a heat gun to soften the plug a wee bit.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by 911SauCy

Many people recommend Air Plane Paint Remover or something of the sort. I went to Lowes and found a spray can of some wicked stuff. Also, spend the $3 for a soft plastic scraper.

I have used the stuff called Jasco from Lowes. I have used "aircraft" stripper that did not work as well.

I do want to try the Citristrip. I do know with the "Jasco" if any gets on your skin, it likes to burn. FYI - just saying - wash hands thoroughly before any bio breaks.

Only use the plastic scraper on the targa top SS.

What's the plan for the SS finish? Scotchbrite?

[911SauCy]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

Cool. How did the plugs go in?

I remember having to rig up a little fixture that had a shaft the went to the bottom of the hole in the plastic plug and then a washer that shouldered up against the convex part of the plug. The washer did the pushing work but the shaft kept the long part of the plug intact (unbent)

I smooshed a few before I did some searches here.

Also used a heat gun to soften the plug a wee bit.

Ready...

Dead blow hammer, Sandy. She helped

BUT, now that I have to r/r the seal again, I will be sure to heat the plug.

[911SauCy]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

I have used the stuff called Jasco from Lowes. I have used "aircraft" stripper that did not work as well.

I do want to try the Citristrip. I do know with the "Jasco" if any gets on your skin, it likes to burn. FYI - just saying - wash hands thoroughly before any bio breaks.

Only use the plastic scraper on the targa top SS.

What's the plan for the SS finish? Scotchbrite?

Reg the SS finish, It looks like a brand new stainless kitchen sink. I'm not going to touch it.