74 911S door handle problem not enough stroke
 

Having some problems with my Drivers door exterior handle. Seems the plunger that extends is not pushing far enough to release the mechanism to open the door. I was in there and bent the inside lever a while back. Anyone else have that issue? I may pull the inside lock and weld a spacer on it or try and make another offset bend unless there is something else going on ? It opens great from the inside. LMK if there is a some known wear issue on handle mech I am not aware of , before I mod the inside lever.
TKS
Ken

I had a similar problem. I tried the same things you have. It turned out the trigger of the door handle developed a crack and was not pushing the pin enough. If this is the case, the trigger cannot be bought separate from the handle. You would need to buy a complete handle.

Have you taken the door panel off and looked at what is happening? It might be adjustable.
The catch on the door jamb is adjustable, but that is probably not your problem.
Pull the panel and watch the action, maybe you will see what is wrong.

Handle
 

Ah Thanks Ed, So your conclusion is, problems in the handle itself? If so the stroke is/may be limited VS handle finger sqeeze. When I get into these issues being a MFG /automation engineer its understood that everything needs to be assembled to make the assembly. That being said it can be disassembled / unstaked /welds /crimps ground down etc. get back to the root cause and potential fix.

I can pull my RT side and compare the stroke per opening~push unless someone has one to save me that effort.
From what I remember, I had a lot of lost travel before the actuator pin contacted the vertical release lever on the door mechanism, ( that I previously tried to bend toward lever pin while installed in the door ) and why I was thinking about a welded on spacer to make gap like 2mm or so.
Ken

pnl
 

Yea my door panels have been off for a few years, HA running it rough.... Just put the inner door panels on and this croped up.
We welded in all the mounts for a bolt in cage and fitted carpet and threw the door panels on and sure thing LT door didn't open. Door did this non open a month ago and I bent the inside lever receiver with a crescent wrench may need a bigger fix.

You can JBweld a thin piece of aluminum in place under the small rod actuated by the trigger in the handle. But I've had better luck just bending the mechanism so that the rod doesn't have to push quite so far. But yes, before doing this, be sure the handle mechanism is actually producing the proper movement in the short pin/rod.

Ahem.....Porsche 911 Door Handles

The triggers sometimes develop a crack at the pivot pin, and the trigger flexes. Pot metal it is made from does not make a good repair practical. Bending or building up the plate is a temporary fix, the crack will eventualy grow till it splits completely. Pelian used to have one available, but the quality was low and they stopped carrying it.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-TMP-TRIG-C

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1399117259.jpg

handle
 

I am suspecting the Pivot pin area cracking Ed mentions. I just went to the garage and realized the pawl lever was in a semi depressed position and pushing it back like where it would be for a full strole make an odd feeling as if the pin had migrated into the crack.
madmmac's post with the alumimum levers looks interesting, I'll tear my handle down and evaluate. I suspect I will be opening up Solid Works and getting the mill fired up, see if I can simplify the work done on the alum copy... Back at you later.

handle was cracked
 

The pivot hole was cracked on my trigger lever.
http://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/...ps87af0df0.jpg
I went ahead and started making one out of steel and simplified some of the geometry so I could make it easily on my manual mill.
http://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0cb60a6e.jpg

Initial cuts ( I bent the finger curve area at this step just didn't model it.)
http://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7e5ebb34.jpg

Final finish radii and trim cuts. ( finger bend not shown)
and OOPS forgot to add the back chamfer cut on my model/print if anyone is paying attention.
http://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/...ps53fd07f1.jpg

I saw this reproduction lever offered, ( for only $28 on ebay) but oddly the actuator pin looks different than mine and looks to be cheap pot metal.
http://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/...pscef111b8.jpg
Mine (74) is just has one stepped up diameter on the lever end and no rectangular block. the lever acta directly on the face end of the pin.
http://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/...psc1fb37a5.jpg
http://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1c961209.jpg

if the trigger isn't broken, the pad on the latch that the trigger pin pushes on is likely bending inward. usually the latch is so worn at this point that you need a new one.

one trick i do for more pin length is to drill out the threads on a camshaft timing pin and slip it onto the trigger pin.

pins
 

Thanks for the input John. Dammit yea, I just don't have to many of those timing pins at hand like you! Something reminded me of a spark plug threaded tip being similar dimensional.

Makes me want to look closer at my door alignment shim(s). Gut feeling closing the door /suspect it wanted to hang low on latch side and the latch/catch levered it up closing it. Cause and effect may have resulted in extra forces to unlatch and the failure shown. It's a 74 and these cars with age need a close attention to some of these details. Seems I am needing to revisit all of it it now after 17 years.

I had the same problem, went with these: Porsche 911 Door Handles

Had the same issue. Out of curiosity I pulled the entire latch and plunger assembly from the door. Pretty filthy and sticky after 35 years. Thoroughly cleaned it all up and lightly oiled, reinstalled and found the proper stroke and function had returned. Did the other door as preventative.