Weber rebuild questions.

71T Targa · 09-16-2002, 06:47 AM

Besides the rebuild kit and a Synchrometer, what else will I need to rebuild and adjust my Weber’s? Do I need the “Carburetor to Intake Manifold Gaskets”, or are they included in the rebuild kit? Anything else?

Also, how long should I expect this to take? Is it a couple of hours, or days? What will take longer, rebuilding the carb’s, or getting everything adjusted again?

addictionMS · addictionMS's Garage

you will need to adjust the float levels, there is a small tool which does this, you bolt it into the drain hole for the reservoir, and it allows fuel to flow through a holo bolt into a clear vial which is vertical attached to the holo bolt. The level in the vial and the reservoir are the same, and the changing the float, adjusts it.

I have one of these, never used, and since I am selling off all my webers, I would sell it as well, paid $50, will sell for $40 shipping included...let me know.. I also have a Synchrometer, one of the nice ones, part number PEL-TOL-SYNC at Pelican, sells for $59, will sell it for $40 also, it however has been used but is in great condition.

I have had enough tuning of webers, so I am not converting over to a 3.2L

Jim

71T Targa · 09-16-2002, 07:24 AM

Jim, thanks for the offer, but I thought the float levels were adjusted by measuring the float itself? I don’t have 101 in front of me, but I was thinking that you measured the distance from the top of the float and the carb body and set the level that way.

Or am I thinking of something else?

addictionMS · addictionMS's Garage

I don't have the 101 book, so I don't know how they suggest you do it, I am sure you can measure it that way, but I was shown this by my mechanic, and it seems really easy, and you can check to see if the levels are correct without taking the carbs apart. Could be a benefit later in life...

Jim

addictionMS · addictionMS's Garage

boy, the difference a letter makes...I wrote

"I have had enough tuning of webers, so I am not converting over to a 3.2L "

should have been

"I have had enough tuning of webers, so I am now converting over to a 3.2L "

Chuck Moreland · 09-16-2002, 07:54 AM

You will also need a calibrated vial to measure the accelerator pump volume.

The rebuild doesn't take too long if you have all the parts at hand. For the first time I'd plan about 3 hours per carb including cleaning time. It helps to have a nice sized parts washing system or pan. Use barryman's to clean them.

Do them one at a time so that you have a reference to look at while re-assembling.

71T Targa · 09-16-2002, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Chuck Moreland
You will also need a calibrated vial to measure the accelerator pump volume.

The rebuild doesn't take too long if you have all the parts at hand. For the first time I'd plan about 3 hours per carb including cleaning time. It helps to have a nice sized parts washing system or pan. Use barryman's to clean them.

Do them one at a time so that you have a reference to look at while re-assembling.

At what point do I measure the accelerator pump volume? Is this something that is done while the carbs are still off? And how much volume are we talking about here? CC’s? ML’s?

Now I’m starting to wonder “Is this something I can do armed only with my 101 projects in hand?”

addictionMS · addictionMS's Garage

be brave, and go slow, and you will do fine.

Jim

71T Targa · 09-16-2002, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by addictionMS
be brave, and go slow, and you will do fine.

Jim

Thanks Jim, I will take my time. It’s just too early to start a winter project.

Anything else I’m missing?

Joeaksa · 09-16-2002, 09:47 AM

Joel,

You do the initial setup on the floats by measuring it but once its all together you also need to confirm this by actually measuring the fuel level in the bowls. Many times the tabs on the floats have been bent and the fuel level is not the same from bowl to bowl and it will make your mixture and idle in-consistant if they are not spot on.

You need this tool (I made my own) to get the levels correct and it will make a difference.

JA

71T Targa · 09-16-2002, 10:02 AM

OK, so it looks like I’ll need a ‘float level’ tool as well. If you could post a picture I would appreciate it.

Zendalar · 09-16-2002, 10:08 AM

As good image as possible

I wanna build one too.

addictionMS · addictionMS's Garage

I will try to remember tomorrow to get a picture posted...if I don't email me to remind me...

Jim

andrew15 · 09-16-2002, 07:03 PM

The float level tool is an absolute necessity.
When I rebuilt my Webers, I used the calipers and such to measure and adjust the needle valve height. I reintalled the carbs, activated the fuel pump and checked my setting with the float gauge. To my horror, 2 of the needle valves were faulty and would let fuel continue to flow (slowly) and overfill the float bowl. I re-installed the old ones and problem is solved for now. Could have been a pretty big bonfire.

Regards,
Andrew M
1970 911T

Joeaksa · 09-16-2002, 07:20 PM

Here is my home made "fuel level" tool. Used to live in Germany and while there things either took too long to get there or were too expensive so I got creative often.

Take a bolt the size of the drain plug on the weber carbs. Put it into and drill press and drill a small hole down the center. Take a slightly larger drill bit and enlarge the hole in the head of the bolt.

I used a plastic "T" fitting but a "L" would work as well. Just happened to have the "T" sitting around. Used epoxy glue to cement the "T" to the bolt. Put clear plastic tubing on each end of the "T."

Screw the "T" into the float bowl and then turn the ignition switch on and you will see the fuel level raise up into the tubing. The factory tool works exactly the same way but $45 more expensive. If you look closely on my pic you can still see the marking on the short piece of tube that corresponds with the correct fuel level.

Hope this helps but I needed one and did not have the time nor money to get the offical tool and this one worked fine.

Joe

71T Targa · 09-17-2002, 06:49 AM

Thanks Joe, now for a couple of additional questions:

The long tube is plugged and fills with fuel, correct? And the short tube is open on the top… Is the long tube so long for a reason?

The bolt looks like it comes to a point, does it? Why?

How did you know where to mark the short tube?

Joeaksa · 07:05 AM

Joel,

The bolt is pointed because it was the only one I could find at the local hardware store that fit the Weber float bowls. (I lived in the countryside part of the time and not much around there) Use whatever bolt you can find that fits the threads.

The long tube is long so that once you have checked your fuel level, you can pull the stopper out of the bottom and its very easy to drain the fuel into a container. With a short hose, "L" fitting or the factory P226 tool its more difficult to get in a container and it usually ends up draining all over the top of the motor. I was in a fire in a car years ago and while not paranoid, I am extremely careful with fuel around cars now. This keeps things clean and safe.

I seem to remember that the books say that the fuel level should be something like 19mm below the flange where the top cover attaches. I installed the tool, measured down from the flange and then marked the tube. This way I just turn the ign on and the pump filled the carb and with the mark it was easy to tell if my adjustment was low or high. The factory P226 tool uses the same type of mark.

After experimenting with it several times I would probably not epoxy the "T" to the bolt again. The plastic "T" fits snugly in the bolt just fine and its only there for a minute or two to check the fuel level.

Hope this helps. Its not "Porsche or Weber" quality but it worked fine for many years and cost under a buck and 20 minutes work. Really made a difference in the smoothness of the motor when everything is equal in the carbs.

Joe

71T Targa · 09-17-2002, 07:08 AM

WOW…
To say this helps is an understatement.

This board ROCKS!!! And never ceases to AMAZE me…

Now if Jim would post a picture of the factory tool for comparison.

Joeaksa · 09-17-2002, 07:23 AM

Joel,

How about this? This tool is not a factory (P226) tool but an aftermarket tool I believe. The factory gauge is a lot closer to the carb body with a large knob I believe. I am kinda surprised that Wayne does not sell a tool like this but there is not a large volumn in something like these.

Joe

Chuck Moreland · 07:36 AM

Joe,

Back when I was in college, my roomate used to have a tool that looked like that. He picked it up at a head shop.

He didn't have Webers though