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Im throwing this out as a thought and someone here may have the answer as to why its not done this way.
Why not use circuit breakers (appropriately rated) instead of fuses. You will have to build some kind of a housing to keep them in but it will keep you from ever having to replace a fuse again. Just pull over, wait for it to cool off and switch it back on kind of like a house system. Other than that, it looks like the panel comes off in sections. Browse places like Digikey and see if you can find blocks of fuse holders. There are a ton of styles out there and im sure you can find one that will work. You could wire these in and build a box to hold them http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/868-062-000/?qs=zHiv0nsVGmp8YI2jPiZzAg%3D%3D&gclid=COaQqbiRmr4 CFfEDOgodZwQAiw or see what they have here http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/circuit-protection/fuseholders/655422 Regards Dave |
Definitely on my to-do list. Will be watching this one along with the others. Good luck!
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You could just buy one that is made up and ready to install from Fred Cook.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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He was last week in a PM he sent me.
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I might be able to rig my own cheaper, but the kit looks worth the money and would be good to have that knowledge base to tap. |
I've been going back and forth with my brother about updating the fuse panel. How much is the modern panel?
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This is where I chime in...........
Fred Cook here. Yes, still building fuse panels. At the moment, I can do them for 1969 thru 1989 911 and 930 cars. The 1974-89 panels come with 24 fuse positions instead of the stock 21 positions. This gives the owner some "spares" for future adds. I machine the bases from a piece of aluminum that is then covered with a type of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. The fuse holders are added and then the appropriate jumpers needed to tie certain fuses together. The kits are available in two ways. First is the standard panel with the 24 fuse positions. This panel will fit under the stock fuse cover. The second option is a panel that is longer and is fitted with two additional relays for the headlights. Adding the headlight relay kit dramatically reduces the power that is drawn thru the headlight switch and the high low beam switch thus making them live longer. The kits include the fuse panel w/fuses, spare fuses, a fuse puller tool and instructions. Expect to spend about 8 hours or so doing the install. If you wish, instead of using regular fuses, you can use "smart" fuses that "glow when they blow" or even circuit breakers that will reset once a short is removed from the circuit. The smart fuses and circuit breakers are more expensive so you will have to buy those yourself. Costs.........the standard kit is $275 and the deluxe kit w/relays is $325.00. Expect it to take about a week from receipt of payment to shipping. Prices include shipping and insurance to any US zip code address. Out of the country is more. Hope this helps!
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My advice is to just change the bad fuse block with another stock one. Leave the rest alone. You'll be fine for another 30 years. Longer, if you do a little periodic maintanence...
JR |
I installed one of Fred's fuse panels over last Winter,a little nerve wracking but well worth it in the end.Fred is very supportive if you need extra parts or installation help !
Cheers Phil |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/772278-cheap-easy-ato-fuse-block-installation.html
This "Cheap and easy ATO fuse block installation " thread will save you most of time and money, especially as wires screw directly into new ATO block without needing to crimp several dozen quick-connects. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1399516815.jpg So for 2 hours work and $30 this is a great improvement. |
I just got done installing Fred's fuse panel about 2 weekends ago. Cleaned up some nasty corroded wires and some hack jobs by some previous owner or mechanic. I wish I had done this sooner. I found a hairline crack in one of the fuse panels that was making a couple of the fuses loose. I never knew it until I took the old one out. I've been meaning to post some tips and lessons learned on doing this project. I will try to do that soon.
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Picture is worth a 1000 words............
Just in case someone has not seen one of my fuse panel installations, here's a picture of the one in my SC, both with and without the cover.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1399551547.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1399551610.jpg |
I went ahead and ordered a 6 and a 15 fuse block. I'll see how it works out. For some reason, links to the 6 and 15 size blocks don't work, but you can see the 12 here, and get to the 6 and 15 from there:
FP-ATO-S12 ATO Blade Type Fuse Panel | Buy Online | Chief Enterprises Cost $37.75 including shipping. Spec info on these: http://www.geppowerproducts.com/product/cview/ato_blade_type_fuse_panels |
This is an upgrade that I will be doing in the future.
I am going to watch this thread, as I have now had to deal with a fuse (in 3 different cases) being the fault - - not the fuse itself, but the connection between the fuse end and the holder. After seeing some of the (impressive) work by the fellow pelicaners; I can see that it will be an easy upgrade that will bring some slightly more modern technology to this car. I love the solution that Fred made, and looks to be a bit more of a "plug and play" solution ... I may go that route. |
I enthusiastically endorse Fred Cook's fuse panel. I read the instructions several times, including while looking at the old and new panels together. I called Fred a couple times before the install for clarification, he's terrific and patient. Gathered all the supplies and over the course of three days spent around eight hours doing a successful install.
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The fuse blocks arrived. Hopefully I'll have time tonight to tag wires and be ready to do the swap by week's end.
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Algernon
No problems or blown fuses since you installed the ATO fuse block ? |
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